Excellent piece on stock finishing

[Big Mafoota]

Find it here http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/stock.htm

[Big Mafoota]

Cheers Pete :)

[High Hamster]

Thanks for the link :) .

[digitaldwarf]

any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted

[tanglewood]

any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted

Beech rarely looks good after staining. I've tried a couple of times with wood dye and alkanet, and they both had to be sanded back to natural. If anyone can come up with a workable solution I'd be very interested.

One option would be to go for something out of the ordinary, like scorching, but it takes balls!:eek:

Dave

[Jerry Cornelius]

Beech rarely looks good after staining. I've tried a couple of times with wood dye and alkanet, and they both had to be sanded back to natural.

This was my experience too: impossible to get an even colour.

[kash2001]

Are there any good wood nourishers from the DIY's for walnut as my TDR stock is looking a bit 'dry', it may sound strange but it does look dry or dehydrated i guess, anyway its time to 'feel the love' :D and give it some attention.

Any advice on products that can nourish this wood would be great and if there are any applying tricks, ie. sanding first or apply direct. as I'm a complete novice with wood :o

Thanks
Paul

[ratgunner]

Find it here http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/stock.htm

Excellent link, Thanks very much.

[rockabilk]

dont know if it will work but on some timbers i have used tea bags and allso camp coffe to stain oh and on ocasion brown boot polish

[Br0dy]

i agree with rockabilk.... Ive had really excellent results with good quality boot polish. Get it nice and warm before application.

[johnbaz]

i managed a good result using william's stock oil kit (on this forum, known simply as william)
here's my first attempt with his excellent kit (original mod45)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/johnbaz/guns/rifleoriginal45withinserts.jpg

and a pic before i replaced the buttpad, trigger and other stuff (and before i made the panels for the stock cut outs:)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/johnbaz/guns/rifle454.jpg

john:)


btw, it's a beech stock:)

[dno246s]

any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted

Hi i could recomend white spirit and bitchuman paint? just buy 500ml of white spirit and take out only 50ml then top up with 50ml of bitchuman paint and shake well ? it was a tip from the master stocker himself Don Robinson and it worked brilliantly on my HW80 with a beach stock.Dino

[joekid]

just use ,t cut for cars=it buffs up fine and hard wearing , save your dosh... ive seen some strip jobs that have applied chemical mixes to end up with a shiny mess, cut the corners, if your going for it just try it on the small pistol cap bit on the grip first,im sure youl be surprised at how easy and long lasting it is.it lifts the grain without having to strip the original colour/which is expensive and hard to renew once stripped

[tanglewood]

i tried water washable felt tips then streaked the felt tip mark/like tiger stripes then smeared them,with a damp sponge , as most trial and error stunts test on planed waste wood first,it did look good though


Joekid

That's the sort of thing I think needs to be done to beech if you want it to look impressive. I tried refininshing a couple of BSAs and a Webley and simply couldn't get the colour right. Did you seal the finish once you figured it?

Johnbaz

Wow, that's one mighty well grained piece of beech you've got there. Beautiful.

[se7enup]

Beech seems to respond well to William's kits.

I've just finished profiling and refinishing the stock(s) from an S200.
I took photos at every step of the process.
Photos are here (http://www.se7enup.hopto.org/se7enup/temp/stock/index.html)

[Airbrush]

Beech seems to respond well to William's kits.

I've just finished profiling and refinishing the stock(s) from an S200.
I took photos at every step of the process.
Photos are here (http://www.se7enup.hopto.org/se7enup/temp/stock/index.html)

Looking good Steve.:cool:

Andy.

[se7enup]

I just painted on Domestos and left it for 20 minutes.
When the stock goes white, rinse it off, dry it and then stain till your get the colour you want :)

[Stoogey]

seems like wat ever paint you use (or 'covering) its all about the right mix with the thinners and how many coat's required...and a touch of skill in aplication..

heres a 'ruff' job i did some 20 plus years ago, this stock was out in the weather for 2 years, by weather i mean straight line rain, ice..snow...baking hot sun you name it..midnight freezing fogs the works, day night 24/7... then left for years here there and every,including sheds and garages that leaked.

http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/9832/hw80stocklh0.jpg

its no supa job, but lets face it its a piece of beech lol..

two pots, one of stain (two thin coats) one of yaught varnish again 2 coats of just the right amount of thinners..
the motif was all the range back then, you'd pay anything from 80 quid up to the hundreds (a weeks wages or more).. some undercoat, black gloss and white gloss, the smidgens out of an old past it can..

i'd luv to get the sable brush's...and french polish something..bin a while but still in the head :)

wow how deep a glean..

[nutty les]

Get your self a bottle of walnut stain and a bottle of true oil use the stain neat with a rag use as much or as little as you wont then use the true oil it will come up a treat you can then leave it gloss or apply a wax to make it a sheen or matt.

[kanwar76]

Here is one more very good article:

http://indiansforguns.com/./kb.php?mode=article&k=19

-Inder

[shoot n skoot]

Does anyone have any ideas on what i should use to keep my walnut stock on my Theoben in tip top condition i did hear from one gun dealer that bees wax was rather good ????:confused:

[landrovermanuk]

For walnut you can use bees wax or get an oiling kit from your local gun shop or go to a good wood yard that supplies wood and oil for the furniture hobbyist/trade. I'm just about to try a "Trade secret" oil kit.
Many years ago when I was a boat builder I knew a boat builder called Jack Chippendale, he was some thing like great great great great grandson of the master furnature making Chippendale(not the male strippers). When varnishing boats he started off with 75% thinners to 25% varnish, then 50/50 then 25/75 and finishing with about 10 to 12 coats of varnish. The wood looked like it was under a sheet of glass, it was the best wood finish I've ever seen.

[Hsing-ee]

he was some thing like great great great great grandson of the master furnature making Chippendale(not the male strippers).

No, that is the family which is headed by N.I.Tromoors.

[nat1]

As an antique furniture restorer,i thought i'd give a few of my tips for stock finishing,
1/ BEECH FINISHING, i find it best to use water based stains (not spirit based) lots of colours available. Seal bare wood first with 50/50% shellac/finishing spirits or you could use a sanding sealer,cut back with 0000 wire wool then apply stain with a damp rag,allow to dry,seal the stain in with 80/20% shellac,finishing spirits,lightly cut back with 0000 wire wool,then wax up and buff off.

2/WALNUT OIL FINISH, I prefer not to stain walnut,(because i believe sealing after staining would prevent the oil soaking in!) but you can if you wish.Bare walnut will take a stain better,but remember to seal in the stain or the oil will make it streaky looking.
My method with a bare stock= wet the stock with a damp rag,dry quickly with a heat-gun/good hair-dryer(careful not to darken/scorch wood).Sand back with 400 grit paper,do this process twice.

Now for the oil process, i use (for the first two coats only) a mix off 35% tung-oil,35% boiled linseed oil,30%white spirit (turpentine works also) .This is a thin oil coating to help penetrate the grain better.Brush on,leave for 15 minutes wipe off excess with a rag(T-shirts are good),allow to dry for 24 hours in a dust free room.Then cut back with 400 grit paper.Do this process twice.

Now for the 3rd-8th coats. 45% tung-oil,45% boiled linseed oil,10%white spirit(or turpentine), use a rag to apply,leave 24 hours to dry,then cut back with 0000 wire wool,repeat 8 times,8 coats= about 8 days.If you wish once lightly cut back,apply wax or leave for further oil coating.
A WORD OF WARNING!!!! RAGS THAT HAVE BEEN USED TO OIL WITH CAN SPONTANEOUSLY COMBUST !! Wash out the used rags,then lay out flat outside on pavement/patio etc.

Handmade walnut s200 stock, BEFORE= http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=stock004sm2.jpg

AFTER= http://img119.imageshack.us/my.php?image=eds005uv0.jpg

A couple of suppliers i use= http://www.fiddes.co.uk/content/

http://www.mylands.co.uk/
I hope some of this is helpfull....Woody.

[nat1]

oops!

[goldeneye]

Find it here http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/stock.htm

This link no longer works, does anyone know if it has moved somewhere?

[Gaz Owen]

one thing you could try is a feather and ink technique i have seen this done to enhance the grain on some expensive shotgun stocks and it can look amazing but as always practice first... to get a good smooth finish on your stock once you think you have finished sanding and you are ready to stain soak the stock with water and dry quickly with a hair dryer this will make the stock rough again then use wire wool to remove the roughness repeat this process a few times to get a mirror finish prior to staining good luck

[tankosl]

Hi All,

I tried looking at the original link and there it was gone..........:rolleyes:

Have any of you found it again or something similar???

Mark

[muzzy01]

i have just done 2 old bsa stocks, i stripped them back to the bare wood with 180/240/ then finished of with 800 grit papers then fished with about 6 coats of danish oil, they do it in several diferent colours well pleased with the result, i have used this fish on a lot of wood turned peaces i have done and as lon as you leave them to dry properly and sand in between coats with a soft wire wool finish comes up bril pm me if you want pics
muzzy

[jheeley]

I have just stripped and re-polished the beech stock on my Logun Axsor. I used a high quality furniture wax called SUPREME WAX POLISH, it's by Fiddes & Sons. Mine was stripped pine in colour but you can get darker colours if you wish. The finish is extremely good and because it's a natural wax it remains very slightly tacky when your hot hands get on it. This makes it a very good grip with no slipperyness at all.

Regards, John

[nat1]

^^^^^
Have to agree, Fiddes are superb,i use all their products at work,supreme stripped pine has vertually no stain in it and can be buffed off straight away,whereas certain Mylands wax's(antique mahogany) work best when left over night.
Atb,woody.

[curlyrunnerbean]

^^^^^
Have to agree, Fiddes are superb,i use all their products at work,supreme stripped pine has vertually no stain in it and can be buffed off straight away,whereas certain Mylands wax's(antique mahogany) work best when left over night.
Atb,woody.

Those are absolutely sweet stocks, mate. I'm envious. nice one. Owen :D

[muzzy01]

i have used refined danish oil, you can get it from b&q with a stain in it already, i re done a bsa meteor stock looked fab when finished, but give it time to dry before you buff it up with very fine wire wool, then apply your last coat , how many coats is determined by how dark you want the finish to be ,
muzzy

[Romfordruffian]

The destination for this link has been shut down. Any chance of re-publishing it as I'm wnting to get my S-200 to look something like.
Thanks
M
:cool:

[gumdrop]

i have used refined danish oil, you can get it from b&q with a stain in it already, i re done a bsa meteor stock looked fab when finished, but give it time to dry before you buff it up with very fine wire wool, then apply your last coat , how many coats is determined by how dark you want the finish to be ,
muzzy

I have done a couple of Beech stocks with black stain added to Danish Oil,both Rustins products. This picked out the fine grain.
The first coat of danish oil was thinned with white spirit applied then wiped off
The raised grain was taken down with a green scouring pad until it was as smooth as glass then three coats of danish oil applied with twenty four hours between coats.
I used Danish oil on all my walnut stocks as it gives a hardwearing finish that is easy to repair

[ianbobo1]

hi there ive renovated a few beach stocks and i found the trick to getting a good finish with beach was in the sanding.
basically don't try to sand the old stain back too much because first of all you will never get all the old stain out of the wood grain and also you will get a patchy looking stock (not very nice).
but use the old stain to your advantage i.e. leave the old stain in the grain.
then re-stain (i use dark coloured stains)
then what happens is the wood grain will be twice as dark as the rest of the stock then finish with Danish oil.
which in most cases depending on the stock gives an almost walnut type of look.
great ;)

[grumpar]

any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted
I have heard about cold tea if you don't want to spend any money , never trye'd it my self i have a tin of wood stain i have had for about 20 years , it just keeps going , but always do a test bit first , and i always oil inset of varnish it soaks into the wood and gives a much better sheen .

[shutt997]

cheers pal

[jackf1]

i like that gun :D

[copperjacket]

This 3 part article seems to be very comprehensive from initial strip through to final finishing: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=12865/GunTechdetail/Stock_Refinishing___Part_I

[Home Guard]

Just tried the tea staining idea on my meteor stock. its a crap beech one, but now it looks quite ok. i just left the teabags in hot water for a while (this should help open up the pores in the wood) about 15 mins, and then rubbed them in. It gives the wood a lovely golden brown colour. :cool:

I will be doing the same on all my stocks now. :D

[copperjacket]

Just tried the tea staining idea on my meteor stock. its a crap beech one, but now it looks quite ok. i just left the teabags in hot water for a while (this should help open up the pores in the wood) about 15 mins, and then rubbed them in. It gives the wood a lovely golden brown colour. :cool:

I will be doing the same on all my stocks now. :D

PG Tips or Earl Grey?

[mick1]

I tried this link today and the web page(s) appear to have been shut down. I'm still interested in the topic though.
Mick

[Home Guard]

Yeah, has been dead for about a year.

[Home Guard]

Just tried Black shoe polish tonight. 1 coat rubbed in well gives a nice stained colour, but also a water resistant finish (?) I tried this again, but found i couldnt get it any darker. So i heated the wood up first with a model aircraft heatgun and then rubbed the polish into the stock genourousely. This melted the polish to a thin enough texture so it seaped into the beech. Now i have a much darker stain. :cool:

I will try this aing tommorrow night with brown and grey on a different part of the stock. ;)

Bearing in mind this gives a water resistant finish, will i still be able to finish it off with a oil coating? :confused::(

ATVB Jacob

[nat1]

Bearing in mind this gives a water resistant finish, will i still be able to finish it off with a oil coating? :confused::(

ATVB Jacob

In answer to the above, once waxed, i very much doubt it!
Unless you use a wax remover first,which defeats your experiment :o.
Atb, Woody.

[watt]

Hello quick question is it possible the link from the first post no longer works ?
thanks in advance :D

[andybeeman]

thats fantastic,nice job.

[trevor]

useful information thanks!

[mr angry]

found this really useful thanks a lot

[detectorjohn]

Are there any rules on wood for stocks or it down to preference?
Regards John

[jimcamp]

But when can I see my posts on here?:eek:

[Sammy boy]

Hi, i used warm tea and applied it with a washing up sponge! After 10 coats (left to dry in between) it worked well, although a few more coats may have looked better. I then used neutral boot polish, applied four coats and it turned out quite nice for my first attempt.

Sam

[alan 972]

this was my experience too: Impossible to get an even colour.

thanks for that you have saved me alot of time cheers

[FR1908]

Thank you very much!

[Knight Guitars]

I amazes me some of the crap people will put on a poor piece of wood in name of finishing.

Beech is an absolute doddle to stain you just need to know what your doing and do it right. Companys havent spent millions developing decent woodstain for people to still be using rubbish like alknet, it was a fantastic woodstain 100years ago now its a throwback.

You can buy amazing quality woodstain that is lightfast (holds its color over time in sunlight) easy to apply and relatively cheap to purchase. You can buy brilliant wood stains from companys like Liebron, Morrells, even Colron is ok at a fix.

Now if you use spirit based stain (based on meths) all you need to do is wipe the Beech stock over with a wet coat of meths this will level the absortion rate on the timber out as the bits that absorb more meths will dilute the stain more and the bits that absorb the meths less will dilute the stain less giving an even appearance.

Next you saturation coat the wood that mean fast wet coats (we normally spray it if we can) meaning you must start with a much lighter colored stain then the final color your trying to achieve if not your stain will make the wood darker than you want it. If you cant spray the stain wipe it on wet with kitchen roll keeping a wet edge that means putting lots on and keep putting it on till the wood will accept no more it helps to have the stock in a cradle so you dont put finger prints all over it.

Now as the stain drys some stain will leech back out of the woods pores, just wipe this off with a clean sheet of kitchen paper eventually you will have a evenly color matt piece of Beech. Allow this to dry for a day or so then your ready to oil or laquer or whatever.

No need for teabags/bootpolish/eye of newt.....

[bowers]

great thanks relly helped:)

[Richy25]

I amazes me some of the crap people will put on a poor piece of wood in name of finishing.

Beech is an absolute doddle to stain you just need to know what your doing and do it right. Companys havent spent millions developing decent woodstain for people to still be using rubbish like alknet, it was a fantastic woodstain 100years ago now its a throwback.

You can buy amazing quality woodstain that is lightfast (holds its color over time in sunlight) easy to apply and relatively cheap to purchase. You can buy brilliant wood stains from companys like Liebron, Morrells, even Colron is ok at a fix.

Now if you use spirit based stain (based on meths) all you need to do is wipe the Beech stock over with a wet coat of meths this will level the absortion rate on the timber out as the bits that absorb more meths will dilute the stain more and the bits that absorb the meths less will dilute the stain less giving an even appearance.

Next you saturation coat the wood that mean fast wet coats (we normally spray it if we can) meaning you must start with a much lighter colored stain then the final color your trying to achieve if not your stain will make the wood darker than you want it. If you cant spray the stain wipe it on wet with kitchen roll keeping a wet edge that means putting lots on and keep putting it on till the wood will accept no more it helps to have the stock in a cradle so you dont put finger prints all over it.

Now as the stain drys some stain will leech back out of the woods pores, just wipe this off with a clean sheet of kitchen paper eventually you will have a evenly color matt piece of Beech. Allow this to dry for a day or so then your ready to oil or laquer or whatever.

No need for teabags/bootpolish/eye of newt.....

Do I need to Nitromors all old finish off ,and then sand it first till all same colour what about pre stain conditioner any advice welcomed!!

[Djdougalno1]

Great article

[centicknap84]

any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted

I use sadolin alot at work and if you thin it down with lots of white spirit it leaves a really nice finish.

[ishot]

have any of u guys got any tips on painting the stock camofluage :)

[R10_Mark]

I use Krylon paints and don't be scared of mistakes, there's a few good vid's on U tube mainly for airsoft guns

Good luck

[GunnerGuard]

any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted

use coffee or a teabag then a water based varnish.

[alpha-1]

any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted

high i mix the stain in with the oil ,i use danish oil the wood take the oil stain mix in quickly like a sponge ,in the first coat only then after 24 hours contiue with just oil ,i put about 5 layers on over 5 days hope this helps Cheers ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,pick a darker stain then u need mix to the right shade with oil and stain

[bigtoe01]

Not found a better guide than this one... http://sparetimeactivities.net/StockStain.htm its maple so may be different to beech but the results are stunning. It uses Gel Stain though which is the key...and he shows why in the guide.

I was going to copy the AA light hunter green theme on my 97k stock...decided to give this a go now as the results look superb in the guide.

[melling]

Are there any good wood nourishers from the DIY's for walnut as my TDR stock is looking a bit 'dry', it may sound strange but it does look dry or dehydrated i guess, anyway its time to 'feel the love' :D and give it some attention.

Any advice on products that can nourish this wood would be great and if there are any applying tricks, ie. sanding first or apply direct. as I'm a complete novice with wood :o

Thanks
Paul
raw linseed oil will make your walnut stock look fantastic and is half the price of danish oil , unless your stock is damaged do not sand it unless its with the finest glass paper you can get (400 grit) . walnut goes quite dark with a purple tinge when sanded.

melling

[LC Rapid 7]

looks well

[thisisdonald]

I've done loads of beech stocks and found that if you sand smooth then wet with water it will go rough as the grain in the wood swells... Repeat this process about 5 or 6 times until the stock becomes smooth when wet, then brush clean and apply tru oil... The stock will transform before your eyes... The bonus of an oiled stock is if you get a ding in it you can raise the ding with steam from an iron and sand it back flat!

[Freekickuk]

Very nice

[Pugs]

I've done loads of beech stocks and found that if you sand smooth then wet with water it will go rough as the grain in the wood swells... Repeat this process about 5 or 6 times until the stock becomes smooth when wet, then brush clean and apply tru oil... The stock will transform before your eyes... The bonus of an oiled stock is if you get a ding in it you can raise the ding with steam from an iron and sand it back flat!

Couple of questions, what grade paper do you use? Also, do you only finish with trust oil?

Thanks

[Pugs]

I've done loads of beech stocks and found that if you sand smooth then wet with water it will go rough as the grain in the wood swells... Repeat this process about 5 or 6 times until the stock becomes smooth when wet, then brush clean and apply tru oil... The stock will transform before your eyes... The bonus of an oiled stock is if you get a ding in it you can raise the ding with steam from an iron and sand it back flat!

Couple of questions, what grade paper do you use? Also, do you only finish with tru oil?

Thanks

[Justinio]

I quite like the tactical look, so I'm tempted to go down the olive green Krylon route.