What bullet molds

[Smokeless Coal]

The most common one in use for conicals seems to be the Lee one which produces 200gr bullets.

Anyone know of other makes of have their own favourites?

Perhaps something a bit lighter?

[Mousemann]

Hi SC - been away for a week on hol, but got back and found - joy of joys - all my casting gear in a box on the doorstep, from that company you recommended. What's more, it was totally unmolested by Customs!

Just got to get some gas for the primus and we're in business. :D

[Mousemann]

Little bit hubristic, replying to one's own post, but I've just come in from my first casting session, 27 bullets better off.

I think I may have to work a little on the cost per bullet though. Whilst faffing about, I used an entire Gaz cartridge :o Oh well, plenty of time to practise.

When it comes to bullet integrity etc., are there any inherent dangers from slight wrinkles on some of the bullets? I know it might impinge on accuracy, but they won't come apart or block the barrel... will they? The really obvious duffs, I threw back and recast.

[Smokeless Coal]

First thing make sure you "smoke" the mold. I find a candle works well.

Second you have to get the mold heated whilst the lead melts so its nice and hot for when you pour. My first half dozen usually dont fill the mold but as it comes up to temp it starts to go good.

Dont try heating too much lead at a time, about half a cupfull is enough. Turn the gas down when it melts, you want to try to keep the silvery colour on the top and not going blue grey.

Heat the ladle, leave it standing in the hot lead, scrape the dross off with it and move it around. I use a stainless spoon modified.

Rest the ladle next to the pour hole and tip it in and leave a little puddle on top. This feeds it as it cools. Work a bit faster it only tales a couple of seconds to chill enough to open the mold. You gotta keep things hot. But not too hot.

I open the mold over a leather gardening glove and tap the big nut to make the slug drop out. Quickly close the mold and pour again. Its a matter of seconds between each pour. Pour, move the gate, open, tap, close, pour. Do about 20 and top up the lead. While its melting rest the mold on a bit of brick so it dont lose too much heat, tip the slugs off the glove ready for the next batch.

I do over 100 an hour. Over 600 per gaz cart.

[Mousemann]

Getting better at this. Just prepared ingots today - less faff when I get to moulding bullets again. I'm using lead from the scrap yard, so nice and mucky.

[BobHarget]

First thing make sure you "smoke" the mold. I find a candle works well.



I was under the impression that candle smoke should not be used because it is too greasy, a match or spill is better.

We use an RCBS electric pot at the club and melt between 15 & 20lb of scrap range lead at a time and we churn out about 1000 - 1500 bullets and balls per session, including the Webley .455 hollow base for the historic guns.
It is like a production line, 5 moulds, 1 person filling and one tapping, keeping the moulds in strict rotation to maintain temperature.
The other requirement which is more important than temperature control is safety i.e. good ventilation (we use an old range ventilation fan and duct) eye protection and heat proof gauntlets.
Remember, one drop of water in the molten lead and it can redecorate the room and you.
As for small imperfections in the finished items I have not noticed any major problems with accuracy I'm still a bad shot but no worse than I was with factory swaged lead :D

[Mousemann]

I've been hedging my bets and wearing one of those face-masks. Is this necessary (I'm outdoors, but can still get in the way of the fumes)?

[BobHarget]

I've been hedging my bets and wearing one of those face-masks. Is this necessary (I'm outdoors, but can still get in the way of the fumes)?

It is always worth taking precautions, even with a fan that is almost sucking the lead out of the pot we wear masks (designed for fumes not dust). It is the lead oxide which is produced during the melting process and when impurities are removed by fluxing that is the main problem.
Despite all the problems and sweat, casting is a great pastime.
Have a look at this forum:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/index.php?

I know it's a US site but these guys know what they are talking about.