A bit of advise please HW100 owners

[Arcticgun]

After reading the thread on HW100k shot counts, I noticed that some have removed the "Barrel Support" to improve accuracy, what I would like to know is, is it a case of simply just removing, or is their something I need to alter on the barrel suport, ie cut the barrel loop of?, thanks in advance for any help, atvb Richard

[ikarma70]

i found that by removing the barrel section,the band twisted in the stock which hindered the screwing in of the non q/f cylinder so in the end i just cut the band in half,packed the fore end inner slot up with a hard foam,packed the rear of the inletting with sticky taped foam to remove the rocking from the action and job done.

just waiting to get my spare cylinder back from having a q/f conversion fitted so i don't have to keep removing my cylinder.

[Arcticgun]

Thanks for that:), I removed mine completley yesterday, and have found that it tightens the groups a little more at 50yds, that said the rifle was accurate prior to that:cool:, atvb Richard

[Steyr]

Either remove the rubber o ring where the barrel pases through to offer protection so long as the bracket DOES not touch the barrel.

OR waste time cuting it down

OR remove it completely - it does not really bring anything to the party IMHO.

[ikarma70]

Either remove the rubber o ring where the barrel pases through to offer protection so long as the bracket DOES not touch the barrel.
OR waste time cuting it down

OR remove it completely - it does not really bring anything to the party IMHO.

i tried that before cutting and it didn't work as it still pulled the barrel down.

[Arcticgun]

It seems fine with the band removed, I was a bit worried that the cylinder would droop, however this seems unlikely:) I dont use a sling so I wont miss the front stud, just want a bit of reassurence that I wont damage the rifle by removing it, thanks to all for advise, atvb Richard

[blade]

could do what i did leave the barrel band on but remove the o ring in the top hole that holds the barrel so in theory you have a free floating barrel :D

[Keith Oakes]

My HW100 is a bog standard Mk 1 & I have no problems whatsoever. Accuracy wise it's super accurate. I haven't grouped it yet but I will eventually & I'm sure it'll come up with the goods. With Logun Penetrators I'm aiming dead on out to 40 yards, yeah I know, I couldn't believe it either. And that's a standard 12ft/lbs model (had it chrono'd twice to be sure) with the band. It's all horses for courses really. I find I get on best with "as is" but that's just me. I wish you the very best finding what is ideally suited to you.

I have also noticed that quite a few people have had the same done. The reason behind it is the harmonic vibrations passing through the barrel as the pellet travels down the bore. Theoretically the more freedom the barrel has to move upon firing, the less friction therefore better accuracy. On alot of rifles this is definitely the case but I don't find it necessary on mine. I'm sure it doesn't hurt to have the band removed though. What are you using your rifle for? I use mine for shooting at my club & the odd HFT comp.

[kingy]

You should have inserted packing between the stock and the barrel band

kingy

[Photosbykev]

or you can get a Bling ring (http://www.photosbykev.com/misc/ring_close1.jpg) made :) imo floating the barrel can remove some of the shooting variables from the HW100, however the improvement isn't a "wow, what an difference!" change

[treboR]

or you can get a Bling ring (http://www.photosbykev.com/misc/ring_close1.jpg) made :) imo floating the barrel can remove some of the shooting variables from the HW100, however the improvement isn't a "wow, what an difference!" change


Ooooooo i like that, give it, give it, give it :rolleyes:

[Arcticgun]

or you can get a Bling ring (http://www.photosbykev.com/misc/ring_close1.jpg) made :) imo floating the barrel can remove some of the shooting variables from the HW100, however the improvement isn't a "wow, what an difference!" change

Nice, but not my cup of tea, Im going to put padding of some sort under the cylinder, however just had it out for a couple of hours, no adverse affects:D
Thaks for al;l the input fellas, atvb Richard

[steveggg]

Mine has a VENOM Cylinder, when i bought it, they also supplied a Cylinder band that free floated the barrel.

Might be worth contacting Steve Pope to see if it's still available.

Not supporting the cylinder, may put strain on the action.

[Arcticgun]

Mine has a VENOM Cylinder, when i bought it, they also supplied a Cylinder band that free floated the barrel.

Might be worth contacting Steve Pope to see if it's still available.

Not supporting the cylinder, may put strain on the action.

That was my worry:eek: I will give Mr Pope a call tomorow,atb Richard

[Steyr]

You should have inserted packing between the stock and the barrel band

kingy

OR how about Weirauch milling out the inletting correctly in the first place. My original stock was on the piss and the new one is slightly better but astill out.

[paul james]

I've had the barrel band removed on my MK1 HW100 ever since i first got it, it's had much use and abuse since then, been fitted with the new threaded barrel and QF cylinder and given no problems whatsoever,
When i first got the gun i did some bench rest testing with and without the band fitted and noticed no difference at all, i removed it because i thought it looked better.:)

[kingy]

OR how about Weirauch milling out the inletting correctly in the first place. My original stock was on the piss and the new one is slightly better but astill out.

I agree but you have to use what is supplied.
My solution to the barrel band is to remove the "O" ring supporting the barrel allowing it to free float and use the band to support the cylinder which I think is required, packing it if needed to ensure the barrel is free floating.

kingy

[Parabuteo]

Removed mine, chucked it, no problem.

Rifle no longer loses zero when the weather changes or it is filled.

You do need to check the grub screw under the barrel is tight.

The barrel is like a piece of scaff pole. Mine is stored in a cabinet leaning on barrel and is fine.

Think about it, if you connect the barrel to the thing that moves most (wooden stock) and a cylinder (not much clearance there either) it will shift.

Re Bipod, put a stud in (or a nut where the band used to be).

Mine has had a stud from day one and is fine.

Loveley rifle though....tree rats hate them.

If you are into .177, give the HW Maggies a try. Brilliant, teh best I have tried in it and fly very flat for a sub 12 heavy.

Oddly, penetrators arrived sideways at the target in mine....funny old world innit:D:D They work great in my 410k.

I do wish I had either bought the sporter stock, or had something different to the TH stock. It is comfortable enough, but the lack of any comb/rise makes the use of any large scope/NV a real pain (I use a Connect 01 with mine which is perfect for tree ratting, but quite uncomfortable ambushing off a bipod, which thanks to my situation, happens quite a bit:o)

[Arcticgun]

Thanks again to all for their contributions to this thread:cool:, atvb Richard

[Keith Oakes]

Oddly, penetrators arrived sideways at the target in mine

That is odd mate, in my .22 Mk 1 they shoot dead straight & the trajectory is practically flat. I was actually worried that the rifle was running hot but a bloke down the club very kindly Chrono'd it for me & it was within the legal limit. I use nothing but Penetrators in mine now, horses for courses I guess.

As for the Weihrauch slugs, aren't they just H&N FTTs in a different tin? I got good results with them too. FTTs & Weihrauchs are practically made for each other.

[chink]

my hw100 doesnt like ftts , they are ok up to 30-35 yds but by the time they have got to 40 they are nearly an inch apart in some cases:eek: i shoot mozzies thru it and it will do pellet on pellet at 50 off a bipod :)

[Parabuteo]

That is odd mate, in my .22 Mk 1 they shoot dead straight & the trajectory is practically flat. I was actually worried that the rifle was running hot but a bloke down the club very kindly Chrono'd it for me & it was within the legal limit. I use nothing but Penetrators in mine now, horses for courses I guess.

As for the Weihrauch slugs, aren't they just H&N FTTs in a different tin? I got good results with them too. FTTs & Weihrauchs are practically made for each other.

Hi matey,

I dont mean the FTT, but magnums (which I am reliably informed are baracudas).

I am talking .177, so there may be differences. I used the Penetrators to good effect in my S410k which likes 4.52, and the HW/H&N are considerably smaller, so I guess that is the problem. My HW100 just dont like em:(

I like penetrators, but with the minimal difference in residual energy at 35yds (against several good quality diabolos), the price, and increased accuracy with DSFT pellets, I reverted (with the 410k) to daystate FTs. I agree, the HW100 does, for some reason, seem to make pellets fly flatter at sub 12 velocities....got me there as mine is OK also:o

Great rifle, has issues, and chuck teh bloody barrel band as far as you can get it from the rifle:D