Excellent piece on stock finishing

[Big Mafoota]

Find it here http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/stock.htm

[Big Mafoota]

Cheers Pete :)

[High Hamster]

Thanks for the link :) .

[digitaldwarf]

any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted

[tanglewood]

any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted

Beech rarely looks good after staining. I've tried a couple of times with wood dye and alkanet, and they both had to be sanded back to natural. If anyone can come up with a workable solution I'd be very interested.

One option would be to go for something out of the ordinary, like scorching, but it takes balls!:eek:

Dave

[Jerry Cornelius]

Beech rarely looks good after staining. I've tried a couple of times with wood dye and alkanet, and they both had to be sanded back to natural.

This was my experience too: impossible to get an even colour.

[pgunning1]

Are there any good wood nourishers from the DIY's for walnut as my TDR stock is looking a bit 'dry', it may sound strange but it does look dry or dehydrated i guess, anyway its time to 'feel the love' :D and give it some attention.

Any advice on products that can nourish this wood would be great and if there are any applying tricks, ie. sanding first or apply direct. as I'm a complete novice with wood :o

Thanks
Paul

[ratgunner]

Find it here http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/stock.htm

Excellent link, Thanks very much.

[rockabilk]

dont know if it will work but on some timbers i have used tea bags and allso camp coffe to stain oh and on ocasion brown boot polish

[Br0dy]

i agree with rockabilk.... Ive had really excellent results with good quality boot polish. Get it nice and warm before application.

[johnbaz]

i managed a good result using william's stock oil kit (on this forum, known simply as william)
here's my first attempt with his excellent kit (original mod45)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/johnbaz/guns/rifleoriginal45withinserts.jpg

and a pic before i replaced the buttpad, trigger and other stuff (and before i made the panels for the stock cut outs:)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/johnbaz/guns/rifle454.jpg

john:)


btw, it's a beech stock:)

[dno246s]

any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted

Hi i could recomend white spirit and bitchuman paint? just buy 500ml of white spirit and take out only 50ml then top up with 50ml of bitchuman paint and shake well ? it was a tip from the master stocker himself Don Robinson and it worked brilliantly on my HW80 with a beach stock.Dino

[joekid]

just use ,t cut for cars=it buffs up fine and hard wearing , save your dosh... ive seen some strip jobs that have applied chemical mixes to end up with a shiny mess, cut the corners, if your going for it just try it on the small pistol cap bit on the grip first,im sure youl be surprised at how easy and long lasting it is.it lifts the grain without having to strip the original colour/which is expensive and hard to renew once stripped

[joekid]

Beech rarely looks good after staining. I've tried a couple of times with wood dye and alkanet, and they both had to be sanded back to natural. If anyone can come up with a workable solution I'd be very interested.

One option would be to go for something out of the ordinary, like scorching, but it takes balls!:eek:

Dave i tried water washable felt tips then streaked the felt tip mark/like tiger stripes then smeared them,with a damp sponge , as most trial and error stunts test on planed waste wood first,it did look good though

[tanglewood]

i tried water washable felt tips then streaked the felt tip mark/like tiger stripes then smeared them,with a damp sponge , as most trial and error stunts test on planed waste wood first,it did look good though


Joekid

That's the sort of thing I think needs to be done to beech if you want it to look impressive. I tried refininshing a couple of BSAs and a Webley and simply couldn't get the colour right. Did you seal the finish once you figured it?

Johnbaz

Wow, that's one mighty well grained piece of beech you've got there. Beautiful.

[se7enup]

Beech seems to respond well to William's kits.

I've just finished profiling and refinishing the stock(s) from an S200.
I took photos at every step of the process.
Photos are here (http://www.se7enup.hopto.org/se7enup/temp/stock/index.html)

[Airbrush]

Beech seems to respond well to William's kits.

I've just finished profiling and refinishing the stock(s) from an S200.
I took photos at every step of the process.
Photos are here (http://www.se7enup.hopto.org/se7enup/temp/stock/index.html)

Looking good Steve.:cool:

Andy.

[se7enup]

I just painted on Domestos and left it for 20 minutes.
When the stock goes white, rinse it off, dry it and then stain till your get the colour you want :)

[Stoogey]

seems like wat ever paint you use (or 'covering) its all about the right mix with the thinners and how many coat's required...and a touch of skill in aplication..

heres a 'ruff' job i did some 20 plus years ago, this stock was out in the weather for 2 years, by weather i mean straight line rain, ice..snow...baking hot sun you name it..midnight freezing fogs the works, day night 24/7... then left for years here there and every,including sheds and garages that leaked.

http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/9832/hw80stocklh0.jpg

its no supa job, but lets face it its a piece of beech lol..

two pots, one of stain (two thin coats) one of yaught varnish again 2 coats of just the right amount of thinners..
the motif was all the range back then, you'd pay anything from 80 quid up to the hundreds (a weeks wages or more).. some undercoat, black gloss and white gloss, the smidgens out of an old past it can..

i'd luv to get the sable brush's...and french polish something..bin a while but still in the head :)

wow how deep a glean..

[nutty les]

Get your self a bottle of walnut stain and a bottle of true oil use the stain neat with a rag use as much or as little as you wont then use the true oil it will come up a treat you can then leave it gloss or apply a wax to make it a sheen or matt.

[kanwar76]

Here is one more very good article:

http://indiansforguns.com/./kb.php?mode=article&k=19

-Inder

[shoot n skoot]

Does anyone have any ideas on what i should use to keep my walnut stock on my Theoben in tip top condition i did hear from one gun dealer that bees wax was rather good ????:confused:

[landrovermanuk]

For walnut you can use bees wax or get an oiling kit from your local gun shop or go to a good wood yard that supplies wood and oil for the furniture hobbyist/trade. I'm just about to try a "Trade secret" oil kit.
Many years ago when I was a boat builder I knew a boat builder called Jack Chippendale, he was some thing like great great great great grandson of the master furnature making Chippendale(not the male strippers). When varnishing boats he started off with 75% thinners to 25% varnish, then 50/50 then 25/75 and finishing with about 10 to 12 coats of varnish. The wood looked like it was under a sheet of glass, it was the best wood finish I've ever seen.

[Hsing-ee]

he was some thing like great great great great grandson of the master furnature making Chippendale(not the male strippers).

No, that is the family which is headed by N.I.Tromoors.

[nat1]

As an antique furniture restorer,i thought i'd give a few of my tips for stock finishing,
1/ BEECH FINISHING, i find it best to use water based stains (not spirit based) lots of colours available. Seal bare wood first with 50/50% shellac/finishing spirits or you could use a sanding sealer,cut back with 0000 wire wool then apply stain with a damp rag,allow to dry,seal the stain in with 80/20% shellac,finishing spirits,lightly cut back with 0000 wire wool,then wax up and buff off.

2/WALNUT OIL FINISH, I prefer not to stain walnut,(because i believe sealing after staining would prevent the oil soaking in!) but you can if you wish.Bare walnut will take a stain better,but remember to seal in the stain or the oil will make it streaky looking.
My method with a bare stock= wet the stock with a damp rag,dry quickly with a heat-gun/good hair-dryer(careful not to darken/scorch wood).Sand back with 400 grit paper,do this process twice.

Now for the oil process, i use (for the first two coats only) a mix off 35% tung-oil,35% boiled linseed oil,30%white spirit (turpentine works also) .This is a thin oil coating to help penetrate the grain better.Brush on,leave for 15 minutes wipe off excess with a rag(T-shirts are good),allow to dry for 24 hours in a dust free room.Then cut back with 400 grit paper.Do this process twice.

Now for the 3rd-8th coats. 45% tung-oil,45% boiled linseed oil,10%white spirit(or turpentine), use a rag to apply,leave 24 hours to dry,then cut back with 0000 wire wool,repeat 8 times,8 coats= about 8 days.If you wish once lightly cut back,apply wax or leave for further oil coating.
A WORD OF WARNING!!!! RAGS THAT HAVE BEEN USED TO OIL WITH CAN SPONTANEOUSLY COMBUST !! Wash out the used rags,then lay out flat outside on pavement/patio etc.

Handmade walnut s200 stock, BEFORE= http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=stock004sm2.jpg

AFTER= http://img119.imageshack.us/my.php?image=eds005uv0.jpg

A couple of suppliers i use= http://www.fiddes.co.uk/content/

http://www.mylands.co.uk/
I hope some of this is helpfull....Woody.

[nat1]

oops!

[goldeneye]

Find it here http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/stock.htm

This link no longer works, does anyone know if it has moved somewhere?

[Gaz Owen]

one thing you could try is a feather and ink technique i have seen this done to enhance the grain on some expensive shotgun stocks and it can look amazing but as always practice first... to get a good smooth finish on your stock once you think you have finished sanding and you are ready to stain soak the stock with water and dry quickly with a hair dryer this will make the stock rough again then use wire wool to remove the roughness repeat this process a few times to get a mirror finish prior to staining good luck

[tankosl]

Hi All,

I tried looking at the original link and there it was gone..........:rolleyes:

Have any of you found it again or something similar???

Mark

[muzzy01]

i have just done 2 old bsa stocks, i stripped them back to the bare wood with 180/240/ then finished of with 800 grit papers then fished with about 6 coats of danish oil, they do it in several diferent colours well pleased with the result, i have used this fish on a lot of wood turned peaces i have done and as lon as you leave them to dry properly and sand in between coats with a soft wire wool finish comes up bril pm me if you want pics
muzzy

[jheeley]

I have just stripped and re-polished the beech stock on my Logun Axsor. I used a high quality furniture wax called SUPREME WAX POLISH, it's by Fiddes & Sons. Mine was stripped pine in colour but you can get darker colours if you wish. The finish is extremely good and because it's a natural wax it remains very slightly tacky when your hot hands get on it. This makes it a very good grip with no slipperyness at all.

Regards, John

[nat1]

^^^^^
Have to agree, Fiddes are superb,i use all their products at work,supreme stripped pine has vertually no stain in it and can be buffed off straight away,whereas certain Mylands wax's(antique mahogany) work best when left over night.
Atb,woody.

[curlyrunnerbean]

^^^^^
Have to agree, Fiddes are superb,i use all their products at work,supreme stripped pine has vertually no stain in it and can be buffed off straight away,whereas certain Mylands wax's(antique mahogany) work best when left over night.
Atb,woody.

Those are absolutely sweet stocks, mate. I'm envious. nice one. Owen :D

[muzzy01]

i have used refined danish oil, you can get it from b&q with a stain in it already, i re done a bsa meteor stock looked fab when finished, but give it time to dry before you buff it up with very fine wire wool, then apply your last coat , how many coats is determined by how dark you want the finish to be ,
muzzy