A 'How to' guide to sharpening a knife the traditional way.

[snock]

By 'traditional' I mean by using an oilstone or waterstone. The waterstones are available online from outlets like these (http://www.survivalschool.co.uk/acatalog/Sharpening_Tools.html) or you might have a shop on your local High Street which does them or the oilstone.

Whichever you decide to buy, there are differences in using them, but for the benefit of confusion, I shall assume that you have bought the oilstone, as that's what many of you will find more readily available.

A very sharp knife is a microscopically fine saw, the act of sharpening simply re-sets the teeth of that saw.

OK, we've got an oilstone, some light oil [3-in-1 is fine], some rags, a leather belt and some plasters.;)

First off, we assess which side of the stone to use; rough or fine, by determining how blunt the blade is.
The stone should be placed flat on a clean surface [the inside of the wooden box it comes in perfect] and shouldn't be able to move around on the bench.
We then need to apply just a few drops of oil onto the stone and smooth this onto the stone's surface with a spare finger.

Presuming we only need to re-touch the edge with the fine side of the stone, we need to place the blade onto the stone at an angle of around 20 degrees and make steady, even strokes with light pressure edge first from the edge nearest the finger guard[choil] to the tip of the blade [guide to blade geometry (http://www.jayfisher.com/_borders/KnifeAnatomy3.jpg)]. The handle will need to be raised slightly as to keep the tip on the stone due to the changing geometry of the blade/stone interface.

Start by doing between 5 and 10 sweeps of the blade from choil to tip on one side away from you, wipe off the oil then turn the knife over and do the same amount of sweeps toward yourself. (http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj211/snockster/?action=view&current=MOV00309.flv) Stop here and feel the edge with your thumb tip for burrs on either side of the edge; if there are none, carry on with the sweeps. If there is a burr, don't worry..this is what you want.

Once we have a burr on one edge we need to imagine what our blade looks like from a tip-on perspective. A burr will make the blade look like a ' y ', rather than a 'v'. We just need to straighten this burr out.

Taking note of which side of the blade has the burr on, that is the side we need to concentrate on. Repeat the sweeps, but this time use very light pressure on the blade and check all along the edge for the burr after each sweep. Once the burr has gone, check the other edge for a burr. The burr, if you've used too much pressure on the blade at this last stage has been too much, will have transferred to the other side of the edge; just 'move' the burr so that its hardly detectable on any side. The stone work has finished.

All that's needed now is to give the edge a strop on a leather belt. This will polish the re-set saw teeth for a more durable edge.

Attach one end of the belt to something like a vice or hook so that you can get some tension on it.
Once you've done this you need to hold the other end in your left hand [right hand if left-handed], and make slow, even draws on the blade working spine [blunt side] toward yourself. After each stroke, turn the blade over and push it away from you whilst applying the same light, even pressure you used on the previous stroke. Continue for multiples of 5 or 10 on each side, just for consistency.

Once you've done all this, and you've got yourself a very keen edge, you'll begin to see the skills develop which will stay with you for life, and you'll feel better for learning how it's done.

Try the blade on a sheet of paper; it should cut with pressure alone. (http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj211/snockster/?action=view&current=MOV00315.flv)

[The Pie Man]

Very informative very good mate, and spot on timing as im just about to buy a nice bushcraft knife myself.;)

[snock]

Then the guide is for everyone like you, Harv.
;)

[Eagleman]

You kindly sent me something like the above before Pete when I asked but excellent now everyone has this piece of good advice to hand.

Merry Xmas.

Alan

[snock]

You kindly sent me something like the above before Pete when I asked but excellent now everyone has this piece of good advice to hand.

Merry Xmas.

Alan

I remember doing just that, Alan!;)
In truth, it was Baltipal who suggested I post something in here, and I thought it was a brilliant idea which I wish I'd have thought of.

Merry Christmas to you too, mate.;)

[MikB]

If you haven't a handy leather belt, stropping the blade against denim jeans can work well, too.

Regards,
MikB

[Baltipal]

Cheers mate, just the ticket.

[snock]

If you haven't a handy leather belt, stropping the blade against denim jeans can work well, too.

Regards,
MikB

Mik's right!
I was shown by Dave Budd, a professional knife maker, that even your skin can revive a sharp edge if you stroke your thumb across the edge [not along it!] at 90 degrees to it.
This isn't recommended unless you've enough experience and common sense to ensure your safety.

For the inexperienced user, a belt will work perfectly.

[steve.wain]

Once new a chippy who would strop his plane irons on his forearm, and fast! It was a blur. I daren't even try.

[Neil.]

stropping the blade against denim jeans can work well, too.

Regards,
MikB

Tried that 50 mins ago. I am now replying to this thread via WAP in the reception of the Queens Medical Centre A&E.

[MikB]

Tried that 50 mins ago. I am now replying to this thread via WAP in the reception of the Queens Medical Centre A&E.

<Groan> You have to do it carefully if you're wearing the jeans at the time. You shouldn't need me to tell you that - ah, and now you don't... :o

Worked though, eh? :D

Regards,
MikB

[snock]

I have been asked by a few members to write some kind of instructions on how to sharpen serrated or part-serrated blades, like those found on the Spyderco (http://www.premiumknives.com/knifefiles/SPYDERCO/spyderco_c45sbk_rescue_79mm_blac.jpg) range.

OK, what I've written above is how to sharpen the plain-edge of the blade, now for the serrated part of the blade.

What you have here is an edge made of a repeating tooth pattern (http://www.spyderco.com/pix/edgeucation/serrations.gif), and to sharpen it you'll need a diamond-coated rod, like this one. (http://www.survivalandsafetyschool.co.uk/diamond_sharp_rod.html)

Place the rod, side on, to the large 'scallop' of the serrated edge and slowly rock it across the angle of the edge to find the 'flat' of it. Then, with slow, even strokes file the rod gently across the scallop - this will eventually put a nice new 'bite' on the scalloped edge.

Repeat this for each scallop on the edge [we do nothing to the smaller scallops, as they actually are very limited in their cutting power].

Finish by lightly stropping the non-serrated side[not edge] of the blade. This will straighten out any burrs you may have put onto the edge.

Serrated knives are great for cutting rope etc, but their use is severely limited to most field duties, like skinning and carving.

[MikB]

Serrated knives are great for cutting rope etc, but their use is severely limited to most field duties, like skinning and carving.


We have quite a good scalloped breadknife, by Friodur Zwillingswerk of Solingen, but frankly, apart from that purpose, I wouldn't give 'em houseroom.

Regards,
MikB

[snock]

I know what you mean, Mik. It's not by accident that, out of all 47 of my knives, only one is part serrated.

;)
Pete.

[crash_test0]

Best bet is to get a diamond sharpener made by dmt. £30ish, will get you the diafold, which is a double sided jobbie, will sharpen 10 times quicker than an oil stone, and cleaner to. couple of strokes on these , is enough to get razor results. and folds small enough to carry in your shooting jacket. blue is course , red is medium, and green is fine, have found the blue / red combo is best.

[snock]

Diamond stones are very harsh on the blade steel. If you want to preserve your blade for maximum life, whilst keeping it at it's sharpest, then I really would use something more traditional.

Diamond stones are fine for plane irons and such, as they don't lose their flatness due to wear.

:)

[crash_test0]

been using diamond stones for years, never had a problem with them wearing blades out, used on my leatherman , which i use for work daily , and no probs at all , have also got some fancy knives for shooting, and as long as your sensible , gives a longlasting keen edge.

[Peter Dunkley]

Thank you Snock for a very informative post. Can I just add that instead of having a leather strop stretched tight to wipe the blade on I use a stropping board. This is a piece of leather glued to a length of wood, mine is about 2" square and 8" long with the leather glued on one face. I hold the knife and wipe the strop along the edge. Same result as a pukka strop but I find it easier with this tool if the blade is a bit long.
Thanks again.

Just got back from Spain and bought myself a little darling of a knife there. A Muelay Colibri. Fixed 2 3/4" blade with a 3 1/4" Bone handle. with brass bolsters. It's worth going on their website and having a look at it.

[christy]

An old cobbler showed me a way to sharpen knives a long time ago. Simply buy some wet n dry paper P600 grade. Glue onto a piece of wood about 7-8 inches long 2inches wide. Use spray adhesive to stick it on.wet the sharpener and use as oil stone. Works a treat, my knives are extreemly sharp. Obviously you need to learn the knack. If your knife is new or been sharpened using another method then it will take time for this method to kick in. Keep everything almost flat. But not that flat it marks the blade above an eighth of an inch from the edge. At first you may give it a jolly good rubbing. That should last for a few sessions. Then you will notice something extreemly sharp emerging. Next it's little and often. Rather like a new willy.

Ah! the most important bit, you must learn about the different concoctions of steel and other things used to make a blade. Some hold an edge-some do not.

[Guest]

I use a spyderco, Tri-angle Sharpmaker - simply superb.

Comes with a video of how to use it, excellent bit of kit.

Dave

[Stoogey]

shhhhh secretly get a round file of good quolity and follow the flat of the blade both sides as close as posable and suchi sharp it....

(secret sea baiting tip...but... WATCH YU FINGERS...it is a microscopic saw...)


ohh...some blades actualy get a tiny wafer flake, if you look close you can often see two 'layers' where the blades been folded,some with an insert of harder metal...

this type of sharp is for meat slicing...when you find the motion to go with it it visualy looks like an electric knife that actualy goes straight through..it feels like your not moving the blade...makes meat taist better if its fresh and cooked straight after.(hense the baiting tip for sea fishing..it produces where ever the fish baits been 'shushi' cut,the rest get nothing...gurnards love a long cube done in this fasion.)

[r.j.s.]

Over the years I have made a number of blades from lumps of vanadium-carbon spring steel and also some insanely strong prybars and punches. This involves forging, grinding and most importantly the art of heat treatment. Once the correct hardness is achieved I've found that coarse oil or water stones are the best first stage, a small amount of coarse silicon carbide on the oil stones speed things up a bit. The second stage goes to medium oil stone or medium ceramic water stone. The final stage is a fine ceramic water stone and a light brush with a WELL WORN diamond sharpening steel or a brush with a razor strop, depending on the purpose. The edges are usually RAZOR sharp depending on the quality of the steel. Sharpening angles are compound with hollow grinding done before heat treatment. The latest technology in carbon-chromium steels is producing some amazing blades, Spyderco being a well known make. My kitchen knives are J.A.Henckles stainless steel and hold an edge almost as well as carbon steel. 'ATS' stainless blades are also very good.

[daveuk]

Thank you Snock for a very informative post. Can I just add that instead of having a leather strop stretched tight to wipe the blade on I use a stropping board. This is a piece of leather glued to a length of wood, mine is about 2" square and 8" long with the leather glued on one face. I hold the knife and wipe the strop along the edge. Same result as a pukka strop but I find it easier with this tool if the blade is a bit long.
Thanks again.

Just got back from Spain and bought myself a little darling of a knife there. A Muelay Colibri. Fixed 2 3/4" blade with a 3 1/4" Bone handle. with brass bolsters. It's worth going on their website and having a look at it.

i've just had a mooch online at those knives. lovely looking things arent they.
Seems like you got a nice knife there. :)

[digitaldwarf]

just anyone is unsure about how to strop a knife here is a video for you

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=liKYctpdjC4

[Big Mafoota]

Here's how ray mears does it http://youtube.com/watch?v=bQN4jcXDjbE

[Guest]

I have recently learnt how to put a convex edge on my Fallkniven. I then use the fine stones on my Spyderco to finish. The edge is sharp enough to shave with, and can slice through tissue that is held between finger and thum.

Cam

[peakecentral]

A while back, my Dad asked for a Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpener for his birthday. It's initially a bit daunting as it looks quite unconventional, but the performance is awesome. It puts a magnificent edge on a decent blade. My Leatherman is good, but I also have a Benchmade which is now seriously sharp.

So good I just had to get one for myself... :o

[Guest]

Pete well done for adding the video link to this thread!

Dave

[snock]

Thanks Dave.:)

It takes a while to develop the skill, but it's with you for life after that.

Pete.;)

[Jackel]

Heres a great PDF file on sharpening (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/swat.strachan/Sharp2K3.pdf) Thanks to Swat for the host

[codfather]

Diamond stones are very harsh on the blade steel. If you want to preserve your blade for maximum life, whilst keeping it at it's sharpest, then I really would use something more traditional.

Diamond stones are fine for plane irons and such, as they don't lose their flatness due to wear.

:)thought id have a quick say on this subject:rolleyes:
i have been a butcher for more years than i dare say (about 15/20) !!! we still only use the traditional steel if this is used regulary it will keep a keen edge on any knife i only grind my knives once a year (with an oil stone) i can keep a boneing (skining knife ) for 3 to 4 years to give a clue that one knife would bone out /cut 2whole cows/40-50lambs/8-10pigs a week:eek:

[Gregnolan]

When majoring in Industrial Arts we were taught to sharpen tools on a wet wheel to produce a hollow edge. Once the hollow edge is produced you use a series of progressively fine wet (black) sand paper starting with about 500 and ending with 1000. These papers are mounted on a piece of glass to for a perfectly flat surface. The edge is conditioned by bringing the edge of the blade into the paper, not away. At the 1000 grit mark, if all goes well, the burr edge will begin to fall off (wear through). At this point head to your leather strop conditioned with fine rubbing compound. The burr will then be abraded through. A few more strokes and you will have a fabulous edge. You can buy a cheap wet wheel grinder unit at Harbor Freight. This technique is the same for lathe tools, knives, chisels, axes, .....Although I find a single stroke (fine) file out in the field with an axe is an excellent way to sharpen an axe, lawnmower blades or yard tools. Pull the file across the face rather than taking full stokes at a 90 degree angle. Done this way a file can produce a raiser sharp edge on tool steel.

[Cliffe]

thanks you for info on how to sharpen the knifes
going to get a stone soon

[Hellequin]

Cheers Pete, a brilliant guide this. Not only for the technique but also for the pointers towards the right kit too.

I got a couple of Japanese water stones for my birthday this year and I've now had a bit of practice with them, using my Helle Wind. The knife gets some good use in the field but a short session with the waterstones has it scary sharp again; good enough that it will take the hairs off my arm!:eek::cool:

ATB
Paul

[clanger]

Thanks Pete, i have been struggling for years to get a decent edge, i tried your way and it works!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kev :D

[snock]

Glad it helped, Clangy, old thing.:cool:

[ffs1942]

I use an Ecko kitchen sharpener for most of my sharpening on knives, arrowheads and even machetes and axes.

It consists of 8 interlocking discs of tool steel. Maybe not the best way, but the fastest and easiest. Used it for 40 yrs and bought a second at a yard sale. I cut the handle off the first one. The new one retains the handle for axes, machetes, entrenching tools and other large blades.

I use the old fashioned if things get really dull.

If you have a steel table, like in the restaurant biz or in a machine or wood shop, you can use it like stone as long as the table is not knicked.

Brian
Des Moines

[2240phil]

ive made a few knives in the past based on the woodlore blade, and i hand sharpen on 4 grades of diamond stone then use a leather strop and paste to a razor edge, angled approx to 30 degrees

pics are of an olive wood knife and firesteel i did for a mate

[snock]

Very nice!!:)

[Zezdoow]

Cheers:D

[skinhead]

Gentlemen, a question. When using an old belt for stropping, is it best to use the burnished front of the belt or the sueded back of the belt? I've always assumed the back, but stand to be corrected.

Si

[chris u'5]

Great guide :)

Thank you very much Sir, I'm gonna give it a try as I've always wondered what the correct method was.

You learn something new everyday on the BBS :D

[snock]

Gentlemen, a question. When using an old belt for stropping, is it best to use the burnished front of the belt or the sueded back of the belt? I've always assumed the back, but stand to be corrected.

Si

I'm sure it wouldn't make any difference, Si, but I always go for the suede side, as its surface 'picks up' if I have a burr on the steel.

As this burr gets removed, the surface of the suede no longer gets picked up. In effect, the leather tells you about the edge of the knife.

Pete.:)

[Ralph Malph]

Very useful , cheers