BSA S10 Trigger and "Dead-Lock" action tuning help please....

[SVRider]

Hello All,

I am new to the forum (posting). I live in the US and stop by and read here occasionally. Most of the time however, I am on the US airgunning forums.

Information on BSA's is somewhat limited in the US, so I thought I might tap the wealth of experience here.

I recenly acquired a FAC Super Ten Bull Barrel (Mk. III) in .177. It makes about 19fpe (CPH's @ 900fps). The trigger however does not (at least to me) seem to qualify as a "match" trigger. If I adjust it to break reasonably clean (minimal creep), I've got like a 1/4" first stage.

Also, the pull "back and down" cocking doesn't seem to be that smooth. Sometimes, I cannot get it to pull down and set the trigger. I have to go back up and forward a bit with the bolt, then back and down again, and even still it's really hard. I'm getting a callous on my index finger just forward of the second joint. I've read the .177's are prone to magazine problems. Working the magazine manually outside the rifle, it seems to work fine, but it may not be fulling indexing, or the bolt may not be coming completely clear of the mag when it gets stuck (not cocking).

Is there something that can be done to improve (or replace) the trigger group and to smooth the cocking? Heck I'd be willing to forego the "dead-lock" all together. The most irksome thing is that sometimes the bolt, no matter how hard I pull, will not pull down and cock. Really breaks my shooting concentration.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any advise....

[dicky85]

Hi,

I've owned a 12 ftlb .22 superten carbine for about 2 1/2 years, and I sympathise with your confusion, My trigger started to creep outrageously after about a year (3 stages!?) so I took it to BSA who replaced the whole trigger unit. From what I've experienced if the trigger breaks cleanly, you're doing well, and the length of the first stage is an unfortunate byproduct. The stage adjustments on the superten trigger are pretty much useless, but the fantastic range of adjustments to make it 'fit' your hand really make up for it.

As for the bolt, it's a temperamental bugger, but if you make decisive firm movements when you use it it should work fine, I used to have the same problem where it sometimes wouldn't engage the trigger, but after getting used to it I can make it work every time, it's just a case of all the way up, all the way back, all the way down.

I've heard about the problems with the .177 magazines, but as I have a .22 I haven't seen them first hand. I've had a little trouble with my magazines in terms of the bolt staying back occasionally, but I solve this by making sure I place the magazine firmly and it works most of the time. The bolt has to be all the way back and down if you want to get the magazine in or out.

Basically you've got to be gentle but firm when you handle this rifle, it takes a bit of getting used to, but it does the job very nicely once you get the hang of it.

Hope that helps.

[SVRider]

Thank you for the reply.

The trigger I suppose isn't too bad, just from the description I was expecting more (I suppose my P70 spoils me). I like my FX triggers on my Tarantulas and SuperSwift much better to be honest. I was hoping perhaps someone made an aftermarket unit in the UK.

As for the bolt, seems I might just need to open it up and find out what's going on in there. From the looks of the trigger group, it's going to be messy. Looks like something a lawyer, not an engineer designed. I was hoping for some guidance before I did (aside from the parts drawing). I thought I have been very deliberate in my operation of the bolt, however it still seems to occasionally not come back far enough to allow me to pull it down into the rear cocking slot.

Also, I am not having a clear magazine related problem. I just assumed it may be related to the bolt movement problem as it seems if I remove the magazine all together, the bolt now moves freely. I sure wish BSA was a short trip away.

I almost forgot to mention....I have ZERO complaints in the accuracy department. I've only got 23yds (21m) in my backyard, but the best I've done so far was a 5-shot group, 0.100" (2.5mm) C-T-C. That's about equal to my best shooting efforts with the Rapid. I think it can do better, but I am the limiting factor in the equation....

Thank you again for the information and your comments....

[lionel]

I've had two SuperTens, customised by Stalker Rifles - one 12fpe, the other 40fpe. Both started out with sublime triggers, but after a few months both became horribly creepy. I had the 12 fpe one adjusted by Stalker and this restored its crispness, but gave me a ludicrously long first stage. I was told this was the best adjustment available and I should enjoy it . The higher powered one was better after adjustment, but never quite as good as when new. A respected airgunsmith told me the unit is not robust and relies on flimsy wires. A quick inspection confirmed the wire description. People who say the S10 is built like a tank clearly haven't had a good look at the trigger mechanism.

Lionel

[essjay]

You could always contact Peter Knights at BSA. peter.knights@bsaguns.com He's always been very helpful and is only a mouse click away.
Regards
SJ

[SVRider]

Thank you for the suggestion. I spoke to Mr. Knights on the phone a month back or so, and he e-mailed instructions for adjustment of the trigger, but it seems, this was as good as it gets. That was why I was hoping for something "aftermarket".

At that time, I did not shoot it much yet, so I did not mention the "cocking" problem to him. I may need to contact him again to discuss the problem and possible remedies.

Thank you again!

[Rob M]

I don't have to put the bolt down at the back on my S10, I thought that the rear notch was for holding the bolt back while you change mags!

I just raise the bolt, briskly pull it back, then gently forward again, then back down, it works perfectly every time. No trigger problems on mine either!

[SVRider]

Rob, it does occasionally fully cock by just pulling the bolt completely to the rear, but most of the time it requires the bolt to be lowered in to the rear slot to set the trigger. Are you saying this is not normal?

Does anyone else have any comments about this?

Also, I wasn't really having a "problem" per se...just that the trigger IMHO does not deserve the description "match", and was hoping a better aftermarket unit was available.

Thx...

[essjay]

Hi again - when I had a S10, the bolt had to be pushed down fully to set the trigger, as you describe. If I ever didn't do this properly, the rifle woudn't fire and I had to recock it & remove the mag so that I didn't double load it.
It was something that I got used to. I wasn't hard - sounds like someting needs adjusting on your gun.
Good luck.

[rockdrill]

FWIW, I picked up a s/h S10 from another member a few weeks ago. It has apparently had the dead lock and manual safety removed completely (although I have re-fitted the latter) and the trigger pull is excellent being light, crisp and predictable.

In respect of cocking the action, if you cock it slowly then you need to push the bolt down into the rearwards slot to ensure tthe trigger engages, although I have found operating with a slightly brisker stroke gives reliable engagement without pushing the handle down at the end of the stroke.

Accuracy and consistency are really good as well, I am seriously impressed with the quality of the rifle.

Dale

[baz]

Junk all the crap surrounding the trigger, deadlock etc

Baz

[SVRider]

Hi again - when I had a S10, the bolt had to be pushed down fully to set the trigger, as you describe. If I ever didn't do this properly, the rifle woudn't fire and I had to recock it & remove the mag so that I didn't double load it.
It was something that I got used to. I wasn't hard - sounds like someting needs adjusting on your gun.
Good luck.

Thanks SJ....sounds the same as mine then. I had a Rapid for a while. It just seemed like it was less fussy...

Thanks for the input!

[SVRider]

FWIW, I picked up a s/h S10 from another member a few weeks ago. It has apparently had the dead lock and manual safety removed completely (although I have re-fitted the latter) and the trigger pull is excellent being light, crisp and predictable.

In respect of cocking the action, if you cock it slowly then you need to push the bolt down into the rearwards slot to ensure tthe trigger engages, although I have found operating with a slightly brisker stroke gives reliable engagement without pushing the handle down at the end of the stroke.

Accuracy and consistency are really good as well, I am seriously impressed with the quality of the rifle.

Dale

RockDrill, I've tried varying the force and speed of bolt operation, but it does not appear to be consistent in cocking. Sometimes it will catch on the rearward stroke....most of the times, not. May be because it's an FAC, but bolt cocking effort seems to be more than my other rifles (although they are all FAC as well).

Accuracy is top notch...as good as the Rapid I had. It would just be nice if the action/trigger worked a bit smoother....

Do you happen to have any pics of the action minus the dead lock mechanism (or instructions for its removal)? How far apart should it be taken? I'm not afraid to....just looks like a lawyer designed the thing it's so complex....

Thanks for the input!

[SVRider]

Junk all the crap surrounding the trigger, deadlock etc

Baz

Trust me BAZ, I'd like to....

....any info/instructions/photos of how to?

Thanks!

[rockdrill]

Will take some over the weekend and e-mail to you on monday, if you can drop me an e-mail with your address .

Dale