Zeroing

[MetroidManiac]

Whats the best technique to do it?

[snock]

Start off at 10 yards, using a stable position, like prone.

Shoot a shot string at the target from 10 yds at the bull. Do not adjust your aim at no point.

Take up any adjustment on the scopes turrets to bring the pellets nearer to the bull.

Shoot another 5 shot string at the bull.
Repeat this until your shots are hitting the bull each time.

Move back to 25 yards and repeat a 5 shot string and make adjustments if necessary.

Only adjust after 5 shots as you could be chasing your tail all over the target card.

[Lee G]

What caliber and what power. The zeroing distances can be calculated with chairgun

[Trefil Hunter]

the way i do it is to set out a target like a cardboard box and draw round a 10p piece a few times. then i place the box in front of a suitable bacstop at my required zero. then i fire 5 shots and see where the pellets group and adjust accordingly

hth

[dale h]

hi, sorry for being dum but why do you have to first zero at 10 yards, i just zeroed in at the distance i was shooting e.g 20 , thanks for any info

[Lash13]

I zero initially at 13.6yds as this gives me a secondary Zero of 38yds.

[ross H]

hi, sorry for being dum but why do you have to first zero at 10 yards, i just zeroed in at the distance i was shooting e.g 20 , thanks for any info

this is done so when you then shoot at the second target to zero you should only have to adjust elavation

[dale h]

ahhh, cheers ross , top advice, thanks

[MetroidManiac]

10 yds is about 7m right?

[Eagleman]

Might be an idea to get a tape measure out!

[Ideot Savant]

Good advise above. To add something I zero at 8 to 10 yards on a bit of paper with a line running top to bottom. dont worry too much about elevation at this point just make sure its dead straight.
Shoot at the line, if the pellet goes one way or the other shoot at the last pellet, and then shoot at that pellet. You will see that you create a string of shots in one direction. Try to dial a few clicks in the correct direction, opposite to the direction of the string and repeat.
try again to see if the sting goes in one direction ( if it does the spaces between the pellets should be less) and then try to dial it out again.
Keep adjusting after each string, eventually each shot will either hit the line, or as you aim at the last pellet it will mostly hit the line with the odd zig-zag across it from left to right.
The above method meens you can make the rifle zero'd nice and straight,
then move out to your desired range with a normal target.

[MetroidManiac]

Now that, is good.

[Scarecrow]

I find it easier to zero at 25 yds 'cos it makes it easier to work out the necessary adjustment without having to guess. If your POI is 1/2" out, dial in what would be a 2" correction at 100yds (ie. 8 or 16 clicks for 1/4" or 1/8" turrets respectively).

The only time I start off closer than 25 yds is if the scope is so far out that I'm not likely to put a pellet on the sheet of A4 that my zeroing targets are printed on.

[ianps]

I may be in a minority here but why not just zero in at the required 25-35 yds in the first place. ? seems a waste of time to zero at 10yds first.
Ian

[enigma]

why not just zero in at the required 25-35 yds in the first place. ? seems a waste of time to zero at 10yds first.

cos if you do zero at 10 yds there are very few factors (wind,wobble etc) that can act upon the pellet at that short distance, thus the windage (left to right) can be obtained easily and at 10 - 12yds your secondary zero (thats the second point on the pellets arc which is at the same place its currently at) will be about 35yds

then all you have to do is put the target out at say 35yds and tweak your elevation as your windage will be ok