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Thread: Bipod on s200?

  1. #1
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    Bipod on s200?

    Has anyone mounted a bipod on their s200? If so, what type of bipod and how have you mounted it? I cant get away from the fact that i love shooting from a bipod
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  2. #2
    Rich is offline Snock the Elder, and winner of 2012 Barn Door Trophy
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    The T200 has an accessory rail beneath the fore-end to attach bipods etc.

    Can you swap a S200 fore-end for one from a T200?

    Alternatively a little bit of work with a router or carefully with a chisel would inlet the S200 fore-end sufficiently to fit an accessory rail.

    Rich

  3. #3
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    All you need is a sling swivel stud. You can attach a harris bipod straight on to it..

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  4. #4
    Rich is offline Snock the Elder, and winner of 2012 Barn Door Trophy
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    But remove the cylinder first.

  5. #5
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    As Rich says, remove the cylinder or forestock before drilling.

    When you have your bipod mounted, never take the cylinder off the gun, there will be insufficient support for the bipod without it.(MK1 guns especially).

    You may get away with it on the MK2 with the plastic support on the front.

    ATB
    Ray.

  6. #6
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    ok thanks chaps, the foregrip does look pretty flimsy. I was thinking of getting a dovetail rail from somewhere and using my stealth bipod on it (bit skint at the mo ) Does that sound feasable?
    AKA: ultimate atomic indestructable sniping ninja terminator of oblivion/certain death blah blah blah etc...

  7. #7
    alowen Guest
    What you being skint?

  8. #8
    Cornish Hunter Guest
    JSR have some on offer at the mo.

  9. #9
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    I fitted a JSR Target Pro Bipod to my mark 2 S200.
    Like the others said just drill a stud into the woodwork.... but remove it from the gun to avoid loud hissing noises and a trip to casualty.
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  10. #10
    Steyr is offline Tie me up and spank me with a kipper
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    When compressed air expands at that rate, you cannot call it a hiss
    Damn this accursed slydexier, deslixia, slesdex-e-her. Well damn it anyway

  11. #11
    max headroom is offline Warning: User is prone to random acts.
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    for why on a 200? can understand using any kind of aid on a springer. the 200 is so light a pole should do the trick to steady aim.
    if that road is going down though i remember theoben having a gizmo that fits to the bottle. a bit of packing will make it fit.

  12. #12
    max headroom is offline Warning: User is prone to random acts.
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    oooh/k a lot of packing.

  13. #13
    SNAKEBITE is offline Somebody must love me.......
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    Quote Originally Posted by max headroom
    for why on a 200? can understand using any kind of aid on a springer. the 200 is so light a pole should do the trick to steady aim.
    if that road is going down though i remember theoben having a gizmo that fits to the bottle. a bit of packing will make it fit.
    Bipods on a springer are a big no no.
    Recoil will send the pellet all over the shop.

    As for the bi-pods maybe the Logun type pods would look "sleeker" on the S200. I have a copy set on my S410 as funds would not strech to a Harris. Harris are the best but also the most expensive.
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  14. #14
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    I haven't done it myself but a number at the club have. As the wood on the front end of the 200 is quite thin, they recommend you use one of the swivels which screw into a plate, you need to flatten the curve on the inside of the wood, then mount the plate in adhesive. I spoke to AA some time ago, you can get the MK2 front end woodwork(I think about £34?) which has the barrel support & adds rigidity to the front, particularly if using a bipod. Purists argue that this is no longer a floating barrel though.

    Good luck

    Richard

  15. #15
    Rich is offline Snock the Elder, and winner of 2012 Barn Door Trophy
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    The very fact that the fore-end is so thin is why I reckon the effort of fitting a proper accessory rail is worth while. On the T200 the rail sits snugly in a groove almost the full length of the woodwork, and is secured with 4 fixings.

    This means that the rail spreads the load and stresses due to a bipod over the entire length of the fore-end and they are not concentrated on one spot where the timber is already thin.

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