aa s410 barrel removal

[andy coup]

hello peeps, im in the middle of converting the barrel on my s410 (classic) to a carbine, got the barrel from rockdrill on here and uk neil is doing me an mfc type of thingy. thought i would swap the barrel over tonight so took the scope and mag clip off of the breech block, unscrewed the retaining grub screws for the barrel:-
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...g/DSC00102.jpg
and nothing the bl**dy thing wont budge!
can any one help please? before you say, i have done a search and found nothing.......
cheers, Andy

[karlgixer]

you have to remove the whole breach as there is a small o-ring that seals the trasfer port from cylinder to barrel

follow link and look at diagram,

http://www.air-arms.co.uk/PDFS/S410EXISS10.pdf

part s427

[andy coup]

thanks, will try again in the morning...

[Fluffy Bunny]

Just to point out I would empty all pressure first!

I am sure that you have already done this, but better safe than sorry!

[JJSTEALTH]

ive just done this with my s300,took the housing off as well,
no problems,
simular with my t.d.r,no probs,
if it still won't come out try filling the screw holes with wd40 or something and leaving a while,
or....apply some heat but as said empty the cylinder first

JASON..

[andy coup]

you have to remove the whole breach as there is a small o-ring that seals the trasfer port from cylinder to barrel

its not that, the o-ring seals the cylinder to the breach block, about 2-3mm under the barrel....

try filling the screw holes with wd40 or something and leaving a while

tried this and it still wont budge! if i were to apply heat (soldering iron?), where would it need to go and wouldn't there be a chance the transfer port would seperate from the barrel?
cheers, Andy

[karlgixer]

i would not use soldering iron, try useing a hair dryer set on high heat.


when i removed mine a removed the whole breach then the two barrel screws and it slid out, sounds like you have a tight one there.

[Gwylan]

I wouldn't put any WD40 near it, it could get down the transfer port, and bugger the seals. The brass insert is locktited, and if the barrel was fitted before it had gone off, the locktite can stick the whole thing in. I'd try the hot hair dryer.

Gus

[JJSTEALTH]

i once tried an electric paint stripping heat gun to remove a rusty bottom bracket from a mountain bike ,but the bike needed a new paint job afterwards
i think a hair dryer will be fine

JASON..

[extec]

Try putting the silencer back on for a better and larger grip force and gently turn it whilst pulling. The O ring should not stop the barrel from coming out.
However, it might leave the brass fitings on the end of the barrel behind in the block, in which case, take the breech block off (after removing the silencer) and using a wooden dowel, drift the caps out back towards the barrel end. Then making sure the little O ring inside the barrel (pellet end) is seated properly use lock tight to refit the brass neck back on.

[andy coup]

try useing a hair dryer set on high heat.

That got the bu**er, as other peeps said, the locktight had seeped and stuck the barrel in the breech block. Just waiting for the 'mfc' from u.k.neil now...
cheers everyone, Andy