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Thread: Spring Gun Tuning

  1. #61
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    is anyone writing all this down?

    They could bring out a book........

    Russ
    Air Arms S400 Classic - Hawke Airmax 3-9x40 AO MAP6, SMK QB78 DL - JSR 4x40 Mildot ill.El Gamo ASI sniper, BSA Airsporter MkVI. UBC#22 - Sheridan EB22, Gamo Compact:R77-4:Falcon, Walther PPK, CP88 shiney, SMK G10, Baikal 53M:MAK, Crosman 357

  2. #62
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    tuning

    big thanks to hsing-ee for this post good old tuning used this method for years myself good to see somebody had the time to do this to help others ill take my hat off to the guy
    in modern day there are many variations but the basics are still the same
    silicon oil best place for it is
    the bin

  3. #63
    Join Date
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    Question

    is there any need to hone the cylinder in my hw80 ?
    them there springer's are soooooo addictive

  4. #64
    Hsing-ee's Avatar
    Hsing-ee is offline may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
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    Quote Originally Posted by joffy View Post
    is there any need to hone the cylinder in my hw80 ?
    Unless it has been damaged and scored, it would be best to leave it alone. Weihrauch do a fine job at the factory, no benefit will come of re-honing the cylinder. If you are having piston tightness issues, try sizing the piston seal. This can be done by spinning it and touching it with very fine abrasive paper. Get a V-Mach, Bonny & Clyde or Maccari tuning kit if you wish to finesse the performance of this truly excellent rifle. Be careful though as it is easy to put miles over the legal power limit.

  5. #65
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    Spring Twang

    If you are able to strip the gun, clean the piston and chaimber with hot soapy water (hotter the better) so there is no more grease or oil. Pay very close attention to the piston seal removing it carefully and again cleaning it with hot soapy water. Once you have done this clean the parts once more with pure alcohol as a final precaution against grease and oil. At this point you can check the cylinder for scoring, if its bad you may wish to have it polished. Assemble the piston into the cylinder using a silicon based lubricant on the piston seal (use very sparingly the lightest of wipes with finger, almost undetectable) The next step is possibly a little more difficult. Take a look at the spring....... wipe with a rag removing all the grease and oil (not to the same standard as the other parts mentioned. Then look at the spring guide. If its plastic and loose fitting, have one made out of silver steel so that it fits with no play! (make sure you accomodate the spring guide in the piston as this runs through the other guide and engages the trigger sear, HW80 that is) into the spring. This is one of the secrets to Dampening twang. There may be after market parts you can source for this. There used to be a kit out there with an ox square sectioned spring and a solid steel guide. Also supplied was a replacement piston seal and lubricants. I doubt if this is available as it would come under the new VCR act. However it is a very simple job for a competant enginear to make one for you. Just dont! fit a bigger spring! This tight tollerance piston guide along with a carefull application of moly grease from a car parts dealer dampens and smooths out the operation of the piston. DO NOT GO MAD WITH THE GREASE as it will make its way into the piston chamber when you cock the gun, and mess up what you have tried to attchieve, and will make you gun exceed 12lb muzzel energy. The next step is to clean you barrel with a copper brush then a nylon brush. Once you have run these brushes through the bore several times use a solvent to remove the lead build up and repeat until there are no marks on a cloth pulled through the bore. I the use Alcohol to finally remove any trace of oil. Job done. Reasemble the gun. And run it in with a tin of pellets, then recheck it with a chrono. Any sign of ignition or a burning smell, you have either not cleaned all the parts adiquately or have used accessive grease on the spring.

    Good luck if you get it right you should have a accurate quiet consistant gun that should not need servicing again for thousands of rounds.

  6. #66
    Join Date
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    skipton
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    Spring twang

    If you are able to strip the gun, clean the piston and chaimber with hot soapy water (hotter the better) so there is no more grease or oil. Pay very close attention to the piston seal removing it carefully and again cleaning it with hot soapy water. Once you have done this clean the parts once more with pure alcohol as a final precaution against grease and oil. At this point you can check the cylinder for scoring, if its bad you may wish to have it polished. Assemble the piston into the cylinder using a silicon based lubricant on the piston seal (use very sparingly the lightest of wipes with finger, almost undetectable) The next step is possibly a little more difficult. Take a look at the spring....... wipe with a rag removing all the grease and oil (not to the same standard as the other parts mentioned. Then look at the spring guide. If its plastic and loose fitting, have one made out of silver steel so that it fits with no play! (make sure you accomodate the spring guide in the piston as this runs through the other guide and engages the trigger sear, HW80 that is) into the spring. This is one of the secrets to Dampening twang. There may be after market parts you can source for this. There used to be a kit out there with an ox square sectioned spring and a solid steel guide. Also supplied was a replacement piston seal and lubricants. I doubt if this is available as it would come under the new VCR act. However it is a very simple job for a competant enginear to make one for you. Just dont! fit a bigger spring! This tight tollerance piston guide along with a carefull application of moly grease from a car parts dealer dampens and smooths out the operation of the piston. DO NOT GO MAD WITH THE GREASE as it will make its way into the piston chamber when you cock the gun, and mess up what you have tried to attchieve, and will make you gun exceed 12lb muzzel energy. The next step is to clean you barrel with a copper brush then a nylon brush. Once you have run these brushes through the bore several times use a solvent to remove the lead build up and repeat until there are no marks on a cloth pulled through the bore. I the use Alcohol to finally remove any trace of oil. Job done. Reasemble the gun. And run it in with a tin of pellets, then recheck it with a chrono. Any sign of ignition or a burning smell, you have either not cleaned all the parts adiquately or have used accessive grease on the spring.

    Good luck if you get it right you should have a accurate quiet consistant gun that should not need servicing again for thousands of rounds.

  7. #67
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6519bushman View Post
    If you are able to strip the gun, clean the piston and chaimber with hot soapy water (hotter the better) so there is no more grease or oil. Pay very close attention to the piston seal removing it carefully and again cleaning it with hot soapy water. Once you have done this clean the parts once more with pure alcohol as a final precaution against grease and oil. At this point you can check the cylinder for scoring, if its bad you may wish to have it polished. Assemble the piston into the cylinder using a silicon based lubricant on the piston seal (use very sparingly the lightest of wipes with finger, almost undetectable) The next step is possibly a little more difficult. Take a look at the spring....... wipe with a rag removing all the grease and oil (not to the same standard as the other parts mentioned. Then look at the spring guide. If its plastic and loose fitting, have one made out of silver steel so that it fits with no play! (make sure you accomodate the spring guide in the piston as this runs through the other guide and engages the trigger sear, HW80 that is) into the spring. This is one of the secrets to Dampening twang. There may be after market parts you can source for this. There used to be a kit out there with an ox square sectioned spring and a solid steel guide. Also supplied was a replacement piston seal and lubricants. I doubt if this is available as it would come under the new VCR act. However it is a very simple job for a competant enginear to make one for you. Just dont! fit a bigger spring! This tight tollerance piston guide along with a carefull application of moly grease from a car parts dealer dampens and smooths out the operation of the piston. DO NOT GO MAD WITH THE GREASE as it will make its way into the piston chamber when you cock the gun, and mess up what you have tried to attchieve, and will make you gun exceed 12lb muzzel energy. The next step is to clean you barrel with a copper brush then a nylon brush. Once you have run these brushes through the bore several times use a solvent to remove the lead build up and repeat until there are no marks on a cloth pulled through the bore. I the use Alcohol to finally remove any trace of oil. Job done. Reasemble the gun. And run it in with a tin of pellets, then recheck it with a chrono. Any sign of ignition or a burning smell, you have either not cleaned all the parts adiquately or have used accessive grease on the spring.

    Good luck if you get it right you should have a accurate quiet consistant gun that should not need servicing again for thousands of rounds.
    A guide that fits helps no twang no greasetight top hat
    each man to his own but i never use silicon oil ,ox kits,or degreaser & i have never cleaned a barrel,owned a few guns we all do things are own way right or wrong
    when i get time ill do a dvd my way not saying its perfect ,but it works for me
    dave

  8. #68
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    Dec 2008
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    tuning

    hi how do you determine the length of the spring guide?cheers

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by BONNIE & CLYDE View Post
    A guide that fits helps no twang no greasetight top hat
    each man to his own but i never use silicon oil ,ox kits,or degreaser & i have never cleaned a barrel,owned a few guns we all do things are own way right or wrong
    when i get time ill do a dvd my way not saying its perfect ,but it works for me
    dave
    I'll look forward with interest to the DVD, don't keep us waiting too long, as I'm sure it'll be a winner, and help an awful lot of people.

  10. #70
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    Jan 2009
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    talgarth
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    bsa meteor tuning

    I have a old bsa meteor which i am looking to tune. Does anyone know of any places where i can get parts for it. I think it is a bsa meteor as on the top of the barrel it does not say mk2 or anything just bsa meteor thanks

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by deadeye dick View Post
    No you cant it is not available to the general public, my wife gets it because she lectures and teaches nails and beauty but I have tried to get some without success I believe you can buy it in the USA over the counter
    That is correct... and just about any counter! WalMarts, KMart, any chain pharmacy or corner convenience store. Usually found right next to the peroxide, witch hazel, etc. RB

  12. #72
    BeerJam is offline Loser of the 2011 'Barn Door Trophy'.
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    IPA supplies

    Hi

    IPA is available here IPA Supply for anyone looking for a supplier.

    (I have no personal or commercial connection with this supplier other than as a customer )

    Cheers, Mark
    Proud to be a member of; MVAC and Countryside Alliance
    "...... I'm good with the science, but rubbish with the gun "

  13. #73
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    Utter newb asks silly question:

    Would the process described in the first post work for my air rifle?

    It's a cheap chinese one (SMK 17 ) and I only got it a few months ago.

    Now I'm not a bad shot, but at 25 yards with a rest, this thing'll shoot massive ragged groups. What can be done to improve the accuracy?

    Feel free to mock me if you think it's necessary, I probably deserve it

  14. #74
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    The tuning as described will most likely improve the rifle's firing cycle but it sounds like there are other issues.

    Eliminate variables first. Is the scope securely mounted, is it focussed, are you suffering parallax error? If all ok, is the barrel lockup secure and is there any play in the breech jaws? Is the barrel clean? Have you tried different pellets?
    Finally there's the fact that springers don't like being shot from a rest due to the recoil; it leads to inconsistency. Try resting on something softer like a cushion or your gloved fist on top of the rest.

    HTH
    “We are too much accustomed to attribute to a single cause that which is the product of several, and the majority of our controversies come from that.” - Marcus Aurelius

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Steele View Post
    Would the process described in the first post work for my air rifle?

    It's a cheap chinese one (SMK 17 ) and I only got it a few months ago.

    Now I'm not a bad shot, but at 25 yards with a rest, this thing'll shoot massive ragged groups. What can be done to improve the accuracy?

    Feel free to mock me if you think it's necessary, I probably deserve it
    A stripdown, deburr and relube will do wonders for it. Also make sure barrel is properly clean, and check muzzle crown. I can't speak for the 17, but I know people with 19's and 20's who have had good results with this treatment, and now achieve good groups. For further info, see link below.

    http://ukchineseairgunforum.myfreeforum.org/

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