case hardening

[Ideot Savant]

Hi,
Could someone explain if it can be done at home on a trigger component?
Thanks

[Raygun]

Going back in history to when I was an apprentice.

I'm sure we did this by heating to a cherry red and then holding the part in something rich in carbon (i think you can buy this powder).
The metal absorbs the extra carbon which hardens it.

Best wait while someone else comments because it was a fair while ago

ATB
Ray.

[g3lcsbbs]

Raygun is spot on. The powder is called "case hardening compound" and available from model engineering suppliers like GLR. There was a powder called "Kasenit " but I think it was taken off the market ------something nasty in it I think.
Gogs

P.S. www.modelmakingsupplies.co.uk
P.P.S. Usual disclaimers

[ikarma70]

I'm sure we did this by heating to a cherry red and then holding the part in something rich in carbon (i think you can buy this powder).
The metal absorbs the extra carbon which hardens it.

ATB
Ray.

wadoka will be after the carbon dust thats leftover from the accupell tins

[Ideot Savant]

Ah, you guys are the best!

[hareng]

Got hold of some Kasenit a few years back forget where from as the heat treating places bought nearly all of it up so that everyone had to go to them.
Gives of cyanide.

[Jonathan]

Try HERE. Hareng is right about Kasenit. Nasty stuff that cyanide.

Jonathan.

[ianpendle2]

Hello,

It is important to remember that regrdless of which compound you use, the process consists of two stages;

1) raising the the carbon content of the steel locally (the skin or case).

2) hardening the raised-carbon area, by quenching from red heat in cold water, brine or oil.

If you don't do the second stage the material will not get hard and you will have wasted your time.

Regrdless of which compound you use, the heating and coating is best repeated a few times to get a greater depth of case. Finally, re-heat (to colour of a boiled carrot) and quench. The depth of case is usually only a few thou. so don't go overboard stoning the metal, or you will break through the case to the softer core ( and will have negated all your effort).

HTH, Ian.

[tactical sniper]

Hi

If you are making a trigger component as an alternative to case hardening you could always use a material called guage plate.
This is a steel already containing carbon. This is available from the above suppliers in 6"x2" pieces of various thickness from 1/16 to 3/8.
Make your component to size drill any holes then heat to the required colour (usually blue to straw) and squench. Job done.

[Paddy_SP]

Funny you should say that - I'm making the replacement trigger sear for my AA Khamsin from gauge plate!

[Hares Ear]

A mate of mine had a little cottage business at one time, making bespoke hand made knives.
He used gauge plate. It was easy enough to work and polish, when the blades were completed, he got them hardened at a local metallurgists. They made a more consistent and even job, than he could do himself with a blow torch.