El Gamo CFX Royal

[derekm]

Almost no doubt that the plastic stock will dampen sound less than wood, but I have to say that I still expected "twang" (as on the Baikal) and was pleasantly surprised that the only sound was a solid "thump", even in original spec. The gun never was rough, but is a lot smoother with the new parts. I never actually fired the gun in it's original state like a pistol, one handed, at the hip, but since the work, loosing it off this way gives more of just a tremor than a kick or recoil (for want of words to explain!).

A point of interest; there is only about 10 or 15lb of preload on the CFX spring and the rear plug only comes back an inch or so when all preload is removed. With an assistant it would easily be possible to remove the spring without a compressor. Rich does it single handed, by hand, even on the more powerful US versions. The "compressor" I used is 4 small blocks of wood screwed to the bench to locate the gun and a length of gash 1 1/2" x 3/4", bolted to the bench at one end as a lever. Belly against the lever leaves two hands free to punch out rear plug retainer pin. After the trigger job and the "tune" (don't like that word!), I doubt anyone would dismiss it as "just a Gamo".
Get yourself to the Post Office, buy some dollar bills and order your parts from Rich (add $6 for overseas post). Easy as pie; go for it!

Not sure what the guy means by a piston guide, unless he means a "top hat". My CFX didn't have one in standard trim, but the R fr M tuning kit is top hat and new rear spring guide. On reflection, it was obviously the thickness of the top hat that increased the spring pre-load and so the power.

If you do go for Rich's kit, his new spring guide needs to be cut down from 109mm to 103mm. This gave me 11.93fpe. I may have to take a little more off when things are bedded in more, but that will only take 1/2 hour total, now I've done it a couple of times. Post up how you get on.

[cinstone]

Morning!

I think it will be a while before I do get round to messing with the Shadow Sport. Still new to this game, so I don't want to fix what isn't broke, so to speak. Mind you, I might have a word with my mate Clive. He's handy with air rifles.

Cheers!

[derekm]

Don't worry about being new, it's not rocket science! Have a look at:
_
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47903...+-+long+-+pics

It's details of a complete strip of a CFX with excellent photos. The power end of your gun should be the same. If you take it easy and use common sense, you'll have no problems at all. Get Clive to help and then you don't need a spring compressor. The CFX is only the second springer I've taken apart, the first being the Baikal pistol. If anything, the Baikal was the more awkward, because the spring comes out a lot further at the rear and the trigger group cannot be removed.

Take a chance! You won't recognise your gun afterwards!

[cinstone]

I probably won't recognise all the parts I'll have left over after putting it back together either!

I'm quite happy with the power of the rifle, just would like it a bit smoother when it is fired.

[derekm]

Fair enough, your choice. The object of the "tune" though, is not to increase power, but to make it cock and fire smoother. I got the initial increase because of the difference between the US and UK versions. If you cut the rear guide to 103mm or a shade less, you will not get more power, just a smoother gun.

[cinstone]

Afternoon.

I may get chance to have a look at it tonight. I think at first I will re-grease the spring & go from there.

Any idea what would be the best grease to use & how much to put on? I take it you just smear it all over the spring in an even covering?

Tar!

[derekm]

Moly grease is what you would use. Not too much, just a film on piston behind seal, on the spring and the rear guide. I've used CV joint grease diluted with airgun oil for sliding surfaces and undiluted as "spring tar". You have to take the gun to bits to do that though. Why not just drop the action out of the stock and see how well (or badly) it's greased now? If OK, leave it until you want to go the whole hog, if dry, get organised for a complete strip, de-burr re-grease etc. The main thing with lubrication of spring guns is better too little than too much.

[Silo]

Don't worry about being new, it's not rocket science! Have a look at:
_
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47903...+-+long+-+pics

It's details of a complete strip of a CFX with excellent photos.

Thanks for a most excellent guide. It has helped me a lot.

[derekm]

No probs Silo! Welcome to mainly Limey AirgunBBS! The guys on here have a lot of experience and knowledge which they share freely. I'm sure that for anything you need to know, someone here will have the answer.
You could also take a look at www.gatewaytoairguns.com
It's also a good forum, run by your countrymen; less active than this one, but plenty of good information and advice nontheless. There's a section specially for Gamos.

[Silo]

No probs Silo! Welcome to mainly Limey AirgunBBS! The guys on here have a lot of experience and knowledge which they share freely. I'm sure that for anything you need to know, someone here will have the answer.
You could also take a look at www.gatewaytoairguns.com
It's also a good forum, run by your countrymen; less active than this one, but plenty of good information and advice nontheless. There's a section specially for Gamos.

Thanks again, good site like you said. I'm a bit of a "half breed" I grew up in
South Africa and married an English (North Yorkshire) lass and came to live
in the USA about 12 years ago.... So I find reading real English refreshing

[Silo]

derekm, one question I do have is, how do you get the rubber inserts out
to get to the stock screws without damaging them?
I can replace the whole stock for $29 US so it's not the end of the world,
but I'd like to learn how to do it correctly.
Any advice would be appreciated,
Thanks.