Thanks for the link .
Thanks for the link .
any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?
money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself
PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted
DONT BEAM ME UP SCOTTY I'M HAVING A CR__.__..._......
Beech rarely looks good after staining. I've tried a couple of times with wood dye and alkanet, and they both had to be sanded back to natural. If anyone can come up with a workable solution I'd be very interested.
One option would be to go for something out of the ordinary, like scorching, but it takes balls!
Dave
If you ain't living on the edge, you're taking up too much room.....
This was my experience too: impossible to get an even colour.Beech rarely looks good after staining. I've tried a couple of times with wood dye and alkanet, and they both had to be sanded back to natural.
Are there any good wood nourishers from the DIY's for walnut as my TDR stock is looking a bit 'dry', it may sound strange but it does look dry or dehydrated i guess, anyway its time to 'feel the love' and give it some attention.
Any advice on products that can nourish this wood would be great and if there are any applying tricks, ie. sanding first or apply direct. as I'm a complete novice with wood
Thanks
Paul
Thank you very much!
I amazes me some of the crap people will put on a poor piece of wood in name of finishing.
Beech is an absolute doddle to stain you just need to know what your doing and do it right. Companys havent spent millions developing decent woodstain for people to still be using rubbish like alknet, it was a fantastic woodstain 100years ago now its a throwback.
You can buy amazing quality woodstain that is lightfast (holds its color over time in sunlight) easy to apply and relatively cheap to purchase. You can buy brilliant wood stains from companys like Liebron, Morrells, even Colron is ok at a fix.
Now if you use spirit based stain (based on meths) all you need to do is wipe the Beech stock over with a wet coat of meths this will level the absortion rate on the timber out as the bits that absorb more meths will dilute the stain more and the bits that absorb the meths less will dilute the stain less giving an even appearance.
Next you saturation coat the wood that mean fast wet coats (we normally spray it if we can) meaning you must start with a much lighter colored stain then the final color your trying to achieve if not your stain will make the wood darker than you want it. If you cant spray the stain wipe it on wet with kitchen roll keeping a wet edge that means putting lots on and keep putting it on till the wood will accept no more it helps to have the stock in a cradle so you dont put finger prints all over it.
Now as the stain drys some stain will leech back out of the woods pores, just wipe this off with a clean sheet of kitchen paper eventually you will have a evenly color matt piece of Beech. Allow this to dry for a day or so then your ready to oil or laquer or whatever.
No need for teabags/bootpolish/eye of newt.....
Joekid
That's the sort of thing I think needs to be done to beech if you want it to look impressive. I tried refininshing a couple of BSAs and a Webley and simply couldn't get the colour right. Did you seal the finish once you figured it?
Johnbaz
Wow, that's one mighty well grained piece of beech you've got there. Beautiful.
If you ain't living on the edge, you're taking up too much room.....
Beech seems to respond well to William's kits.
I've just finished profiling and refinishing the stock(s) from an S200.
I took photos at every step of the process.
Photos are here
I just painted on Domestos and left it for 20 minutes.
When the stock goes white, rinse it off, dry it and then stain till your get the colour you want
i like that gun