Excellent piece on stock finishing

[ratgunner]

Find it here http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/stock.htm

Excellent link, Thanks very much.

[rockabilk]

dont know if it will work but on some timbers i have used tea bags and allso camp coffe to stain oh and on ocasion brown boot polish

[Br0dy]

i agree with rockabilk.... Ive had really excellent results with good quality boot polish. Get it nice and warm before application.

[johnbaz]

i managed a good result using william's stock oil kit (on this forum, known simply as william)
here's my first attempt with his excellent kit (original mod45)



and a pic before i replaced the buttpad, trigger and other stuff (and before i made the panels for the stock cut outs


john


btw, it's a beech stock

[poppy]

i managed a good result using william's stock oil kit (on this forum, known simply as william)
here's my first attempt with his excellent kit (original mod45)



and a pic before i replaced the buttpad, trigger and other stuff (and before i made the panels for the stock cut outs


john


btw, it's a beech stock

looks excellent

[cushat]

looks excellent

Yep, really nice finish on that. Great thread - tempting me to do some work on mine!

[Bean]

Hi Guys,

I'm a new be on here so please go easy!!

This is my two pence worth, I have been making Joinery for 25 years and have my own joinery outfit so I should have a few tips on finishing your stocks and staining, I will apologies for making points someone else already has:

Beech as a timber is very porous, we use it for biscuits and dominos etc for as the glue soaks in very well and also swells with moisture giving a good joint.

The downside on this is it will take a stain in very quickly and could become patchy if the wrong type of stain used or not worked with quickly enough.

Sanding down with finer grades will effect the amount of stain any wood will take in, the rougher the finish the darker the stain or more prominent. Also patchy if the same grade of paper has not been used all around the areas to be treated.We have finished tables down to 1000 grit in Walnut
Water based stains will be easier to use like the newer coloron stains, but in my opinion these stains are more like watered down opaque colours which sit on top of the wood and filter out the natural beauty of the timber.
Spirit based in my opinion are much more visually pleasing compared to water based but can be difficult to apply. A popular brand we use are FIDDES who do various colours and different bases to their stains. NGR (non grain raising) are pretty good but can leave a patchy finish if wood too porus, or not worked quickly enough.
Naphia stains seem to be our preferred choice due to the fact they are easy to apply without being too patchy. These really enhance the beauty of the timber and can come in a number of different tints, these tints can also be mixed together to make your own tint but be careful to write down any formulations carefully or mix enough stain for one job!!!

Another thing worth mentioning is please do a test piece before doing your stock which should include you chosen TOP COAT to check it doesn't react or pull the stain underneath.
Again spirit based seems to enhance rather than the bland water based.
My preferred choice on any Hardwood is Tung Oil finished with many coats thinned with gradual degrees of spirit. (50% thinned first coat, 35% second and so on).

Good luck and please where gloves

Bean

[Bean]

Also if you do use Linseed Oil please bear in mind in never cures and will remain tacky, boiled linseed oil does!
Personally I think there are much better oils out there!

[Jaarus]

i managed a good result using william's stock oil kit (on this forum, known simply as william)
here's my first attempt with his excellent kit (original mod45)



and a pic before i replaced the buttpad, trigger and other stuff (and before i made the panels for the stock cut outs


john


btw, it's a beech stock

That looks just awesome!