Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 93

Thread: Excellent piece on stock finishing

  1. #16
    Airbrush Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by se7enup View Post
    Beech seems to respond well to William's kits.

    I've just finished profiling and refinishing the stock(s) from an S200.
    I took photos at every step of the process.
    Photos are here
    Looking good Steve.

    Andy.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Yateley, Hampshire
    Posts
    297
    I just painted on Domestos and left it for 20 minutes.
    When the stock goes white, rinse it off, dry it and then stain till your get the colour you want

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    stoke-on-trent
    Posts
    229

    Smile

    seems like wat ever paint you use (or 'covering) its all about the right mix with the thinners and how many coat's required...and a touch of skill in aplication..

    heres a 'ruff' job i did some 20 plus years ago, this stock was out in the weather for 2 years, by weather i mean straight line rain, ice..snow...baking hot sun you name it..midnight freezing fogs the works, day night 24/7... then left for years here there and every,including sheds and garages that leaked.

    http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/9...80stocklh0.jpg

    its no supa job, but lets face it its a piece of beech lol..

    two pots, one of stain (two thin coats) one of yaught varnish again 2 coats of just the right amount of thinners..
    the motif was all the range back then, you'd pay anything from 80 quid up to the hundreds (a weeks wages or more).. some undercoat, black gloss and white gloss, the smidgens out of an old past it can..

    i'd luv to get the sable brush's...and french polish something..bin a while but still in the head

    wow how deep a glean..

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Liverpool
    Posts
    57

    Cool stock stain

    Get your self a bottle of walnut stain and a bottle of true oil use the stain neat with a rag use as much or as little as you wont then use the true oil it will come up a treat you can then leave it gloss or apply a wax to make it a sheen or matt.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    BANGALORE
    Posts
    159

    One more

    Here is one more very good article:

    http://indiansforguns.com/./kb.php?mode=article&k=19

    -Inder
    FAC Diana52 .22 with Maccari kit - Bushnell Legend 5-15*40, FAC Diana52 .177 - Bushnell Legend Ultra HD Mildot 4.5-14×44 , FAC HW97 .177- Bushnell Legend Ultra HD Mildot 4.5-14×44, FAC TX200HC .177- Bushnell Legend Ultra HD Mildot 4.5-14×44

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Bristol
    Posts
    53

    talking of stocks

    Does anyone have any ideas on what i should use to keep my walnut stock on my Theoben in tip top condition i did hear from one gun dealer that bees wax was rather good ????
    Webley Raider 10-22,Logun Mod,Rhino 6-24-40 irTheoben Rapid Mk11-22,-Gary Caine profile stock-Rhino 8.5-39-52 ir- AWT Mod

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Benfleet, Essex.
    Posts
    21
    For walnut you can use bees wax or get an oiling kit from your local gun shop or go to a good wood yard that supplies wood and oil for the furniture hobbyist/trade. I'm just about to try a "Trade secret" oil kit.
    Many years ago when I was a boat builder I knew a boat builder called Jack Chippendale, he was some thing like great great great great grandson of the master furnature making Chippendale(not the male strippers). When varnishing boats he started off with 75% thinners to 25% varnish, then 50/50 then 25/75 and finishing with about 10 to 12 coats of varnish. The wood looked like it was under a sheet of glass, it was the best wood finish I've ever seen.

  8. #23
    Hsing-ee's Avatar
    Hsing-ee is offline may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Glasgow
    Posts
    18,217
    Quote Originally Posted by landrovermanuk View Post
    he was some thing like great great great great grandson of the master furnature making Chippendale(not the male strippers).
    No, that is the family which is headed by N.I.Tromoors.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Honiton
    Posts
    1,328
    As an antique furniture restorer,i thought i'd give a few of my tips for stock finishing,
    1/ BEECH FINISHING, i find it best to use water based stains (not spirit based) lots of colours available. Seal bare wood first with 50/50% shellac/finishing spirits or you could use a sanding sealer,cut back with 0000 wire wool then apply stain with a damp rag,allow to dry,seal the stain in with 80/20% shellac,finishing spirits,lightly cut back with 0000 wire wool,then wax up and buff off.

    2/WALNUT OIL FINISH, I prefer not to stain walnut,(because i believe sealing after staining would prevent the oil soaking in!) but you can if you wish.Bare walnut will take a stain better,but remember to seal in the stain or the oil will make it streaky looking.
    My method with a bare stock= wet the stock with a damp rag,dry quickly with a heat-gun/good hair-dryer(careful not to darken/scorch wood).Sand back with 400 grit paper,do this process twice.

    Now for the oil process, i use (for the first two coats only) a mix off 35% tung-oil,35% boiled linseed oil,30%white spirit (turpentine works also) .This is a thin oil coating to help penetrate the grain better.Brush on,leave for 15 minutes wipe off excess with a rag(T-shirts are good),allow to dry for 24 hours in a dust free room.Then cut back with 400 grit paper.Do this process twice.

    Now for the 3rd-8th coats. 45% tung-oil,45% boiled linseed oil,10%white spirit(or turpentine), use a rag to apply,leave 24 hours to dry,then cut back with 0000 wire wool,repeat 8 times,8 coats= about 8 days.If you wish once lightly cut back,apply wax or leave for further oil coating.
    A WORD OF WARNING!!!! RAGS THAT HAVE BEEN USED TO OIL WITH CAN SPONTANEOUSLY COMBUST !! Wash out the used rags,then lay out flat outside on pavement/patio etc.

    Handmade walnut s200 stock, BEFORE= http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?i...tock004sm2.jpg

    AFTER= http://img119.imageshack.us/my.php?image=eds005uv0.jpg

    A couple of suppliers i use= http://www.fiddes.co.uk/content/

    http://www.mylands.co.uk/
    I hope some of this is helpfull....Woody.
    Last edited by nat1; 08-10-2008 at 04:42 PM.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Honiton
    Posts
    1,328

    she's finnished at last!

    oops!
    Last edited by nat1; 15-05-2009 at 07:56 PM.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Chatteris
    Posts
    296
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Mafoota View Post
    This link no longer works, does anyone know if it has moved somewhere?

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Holywell
    Posts
    2

    Talking the old ways

    one thing you could try is a feather and ink technique i have seen this done to enhance the grain on some expensive shotgun stocks and it can look amazing but as always practice first... to get a good smooth finish on your stock once you think you have finished sanding and you are ready to stain soak the stock with water and dry quickly with a hair dryer this will make the stock rough again then use wire wool to remove the roughness repeat this process a few times to get a mirror finish prior to staining good luck

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Wiltshire, the top end of Salisbury plain
    Posts
    47

    Link gone.....

    Hi All,

    I tried looking at the original link and there it was gone..

    Have any of you found it again or something similar???

    Mark

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    leicester
    Posts
    864

    refinishing stock

    i have just done 2 old bsa stocks, i stripped them back to the bare wood with 180/240/ then finished of with 800 grit papers then fished with about 6 coats of danish oil, they do it in several diferent colours well pleased with the result, i have used this fish on a lot of wood turned peaces i have done and as lon as you leave them to dry properly and sand in between coats with a soft wire wool finish comes up bril pm me if you want pics
    muzzy

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Halesowen
    Posts
    157

    Beech stock

    I have just stripped and re-polished the beech stock on my Logun Axsor. I used a high quality furniture wax called SUPREME WAX POLISH, it's by Fiddes & Sons. Mine was stripped pine in colour but you can get darker colours if you wish. The finish is extremely good and because it's a natural wax it remains very slightly tacky when your hot hands get on it. This makes it a very good grip with no slipperyness at all.

    Regards, John

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •