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Thread: Excellent piece on stock finishing

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Honiton
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    1,328
    ^^^^^
    Have to agree, Fiddes are superb,i use all their products at work,supreme stripped pine has vertually no stain in it and can be buffed off straight away,whereas certain Mylands wax's(antique mahogany) work best when left over night.
    Atb,woody.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Gloucester
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    31
    Quote Originally Posted by nat1 View Post
    ^^^^^
    Have to agree, Fiddes are superb,i use all their products at work,supreme stripped pine has vertually no stain in it and can be buffed off straight away,whereas certain Mylands wax's(antique mahogany) work best when left over night.
    Atb,woody.
    Those are absolutely sweet stocks, mate. I'm envious. nice one. Owen

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    leicester
    Posts
    864
    i have used refined danish oil, you can get it from b&q with a stain in it already, i re done a bsa meteor stock looked fab when finished, but give it time to dry before you buff it up with very fine wire wool, then apply your last coat , how many coats is determined by how dark you want the finish to be ,
    muzzy

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Chester
    Posts
    1

    Question

    The destination for this link has been shut down. Any chance of re-publishing it as I'm wnting to get my S-200 to look something like.
    Thanks
    M

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Bristol East
    Posts
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by muzzy01 View Post
    i have used refined danish oil, you can get it from b&q with a stain in it already, i re done a bsa meteor stock looked fab when finished, but give it time to dry before you buff it up with very fine wire wool, then apply your last coat , how many coats is determined by how dark you want the finish to be ,
    muzzy
    I have done a couple of Beech stocks with black stain added to Danish Oil,both Rustins products. This picked out the fine grain.
    The first coat of danish oil was thinned with white spirit applied then wiped off
    The raised grain was taken down with a green scouring pad until it was as smooth as glass then three coats of danish oil applied with twenty four hours between coats.
    I used Danish oil on all my walnut stocks as it gives a hardwearing finish that is easy to repair
    You don't know what you've got till it's gone

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    middlesbrough
    Posts
    377

    Wink beach gunstock staining

    hi there ive renovated a few beach stocks and i found the trick to getting a good finish with beach was in the sanding.
    basically don't try to sand the old stain back too much because first of all you will never get all the old stain out of the wood grain and also you will get a patchy looking stock (not very nice).
    but use the old stain to your advantage i.e. leave the old stain in the grain.
    then re-stain (i use dark coloured stains)
    then what happens is the wood grain will be twice as dark as the rest of the stock then finish with Danish oil.
    which in most cases depending on the stock gives an almost walnut type of look.
    great

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    leeds
    Posts
    348
    Quote Originally Posted by digitaldwarf View Post
    any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

    money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

    PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted
    I have heard about cold tea if you don't want to spend any money , never trye'd it my self i have a tin of wood stain i have had for about 20 years , it just keeps going , but always do a test bit first , and i always oil inset of varnish it soaks into the wood and gives a much better sheen .

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    sheffield
    Posts
    2
    cheers pal

  9. #39
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Birmingham
    Posts
    14
    i like that gun

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Haddington,East Lothian
    Posts
    1,338
    This 3 part article seems to be very comprehensive from initial strip through to final finishing: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1...shing___Part_I

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    North Walsham,Norfolk
    Posts
    2,077
    Just tried the tea staining idea on my meteor stock. its a crap beech one, but now it looks quite ok. i just left the teabags in hot water for a while (this should help open up the pores in the wood) about 15 mins, and then rubbed them in. It gives the wood a lovely golden brown colour.

    I will be doing the same on all my stocks now.
    A.V Marochinni O/U 12 Gauge
    Baikal S/B 12 Gauge
    Air Arms S200 MK2 .177

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Haddington,East Lothian
    Posts
    1,338
    Quote Originally Posted by Home Guard View Post
    Just tried the tea staining idea on my meteor stock. its a crap beech one, but now it looks quite ok. i just left the teabags in hot water for a while (this should help open up the pores in the wood) about 15 mins, and then rubbed them in. It gives the wood a lovely golden brown colour.

    I will be doing the same on all my stocks now.
    PG Tips or Earl Grey?

  13. #43
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Keighley
    Posts
    85

    Dead link (?)

    I tried this link today and the web page(s) appear to have been shut down. I'm still interested in the topic though.
    Mick

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    North Walsham,Norfolk
    Posts
    2,077
    Yeah, has been dead for about a year.
    A.V Marochinni O/U 12 Gauge
    Baikal S/B 12 Gauge
    Air Arms S200 MK2 .177

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    North Walsham,Norfolk
    Posts
    2,077
    Just tried Black shoe polish tonight. 1 coat rubbed in well gives a nice stained colour, but also a water resistant finish (?) I tried this again, but found i couldnt get it any darker. So i heated the wood up first with a model aircraft heatgun and then rubbed the polish into the stock genourousely. This melted the polish to a thin enough texture so it seaped into the beech. Now i have a much darker stain.

    I will try this aing tommorrow night with brown and grey on a different part of the stock.

    Bearing in mind this gives a water resistant finish, will i still be able to finish it off with a oil coating?

    ATVB Jacob
    A.V Marochinni O/U 12 Gauge
    Baikal S/B 12 Gauge
    Air Arms S200 MK2 .177

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