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Thread: Excellent piece on stock finishing

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Oldbury, B68
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    524
    I use Krylon paints and don't be scared of mistakes, there's a few good vid's on U tube mainly for airsoft guns

    Good luck
    Basc member

    *** Looking for a Diana 54/52 ***

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    lutton,lincs
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    Quote Originally Posted by digitaldwarf View Post
    any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

    money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

    PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted
    use coffee or a teabag then a water based varnish.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    wigan
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    28
    Quote Originally Posted by digitaldwarf View Post
    any one got any tips on staining a beach stock before oiling ?

    money is tight and i would rather spend the money on the action and improve the stock myself

    PS: i want the new gun now not the 6 week lead time the manufacturers have quoted
    high i mix the stain in with the oil ,i use danish oil the wood take the oil stain mix in quickly like a sponge ,in the first coat only then after 24 hours contiue with just oil ,i put about 5 layers on over 5 days hope this helps Cheers ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,pick a darker stain then u need mix to the right shade with oil and stain

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stockport
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    6,058
    Not found a better guide than this one... http://sparetimeactivities.net/StockStain.htm its maple so may be different to beech but the results are stunning. It uses Gel Stain though which is the key...and he shows why in the guide.

    I was going to copy the AA light hunter green theme on my 97k stock...decided to give this a go now as the results look superb in the guide.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    liverpool
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    107

    Smile dry walnut stock

    Quote Originally Posted by pgunning1 View Post
    Are there any good wood nourishers from the DIY's for walnut as my TDR stock is looking a bit 'dry', it may sound strange but it does look dry or dehydrated i guess, anyway its time to 'feel the love' and give it some attention.

    Any advice on products that can nourish this wood would be great and if there are any applying tricks, ie. sanding first or apply direct. as I'm a complete novice with wood

    Thanks
    Paul
    raw linseed oil will make your walnut stock look fantastic and is half the price of danish oil , unless your stock is damaged do not sand it unless its with the finest glass paper you can get (400 grit) . walnut goes quite dark with a purple tinge when sanded.

    melling

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    leeds
    Posts
    7
    looks well

  7. #67
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    Sep 2012
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    Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland.
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    I've done loads of beech stocks and found that if you sand smooth then wet with water it will go rough as the grain in the wood swells... Repeat this process about 5 or 6 times until the stock becomes smooth when wet, then brush clean and apply tru oil... The stock will transform before your eyes... The bonus of an oiled stock is if you get a ding in it you can raise the ding with steam from an iron and sand it back flat!

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lancing
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    12
    Very nice

  9. #69
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    Jan 2013
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    Inverness
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    I've done loads of beech stocks and found that if you sand smooth then wet with water it will go rough as the grain in the wood swells... Repeat this process about 5 or 6 times until the stock becomes smooth when wet, then brush clean and apply tru oil... The stock will transform before your eyes... The bonus of an oiled stock is if you get a ding in it you can raise the ding with steam from an iron and sand it back flat!
    Couple of questions, what grade paper do you use? Also, do you only finish with trust oil?

    Thanks

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Inverness
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    I've done loads of beech stocks and found that if you sand smooth then wet with water it will go rough as the grain in the wood swells... Repeat this process about 5 or 6 times until the stock becomes smooth when wet, then brush clean and apply tru oil... The stock will transform before your eyes... The bonus of an oiled stock is if you get a ding in it you can raise the ding with steam from an iron and sand it back flat!
    Couple of questions, what grade paper do you use? Also, do you only finish with tru oil?

    Thanks

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    East Grinstead
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    13
    I quite like the tactical look, so I'm tempted to go down the olive green Krylon route.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Eastbourne
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    7
    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    I've done loads of beech stocks and found that if you sand smooth then wet with water it will go rough as the grain in the wood swells... Repeat this process about 5 or 6 times until the stock becomes smooth when wet, then brush clean and apply tru oil... The stock will transform before your eyes... The bonus of an oiled stock is if you get a ding in it you can raise the ding with steam from an iron and sand it back flat!
    I am in the process of finishing my Original 45 stock, didn't know about the wetting process though, but the effect so far is fantastic!

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Bradford
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    14

    thanks

    thanks

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Barnsley
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    144

    Unhappy

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Mafoota View Post
    Don't know if its a dead link but that doesn't work for me just takes me to an advert for aol

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland.
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    5,036
    Ill start with 240 and go right down to 800 - use wt & dry paper.
    If you plan on staining the stock, colron stains are water based and can be used like a wetting stage. You can also water them down and mix them to acheive the desired colour. I recently used american walnut on a vulcan stock, if I was going to use this again, Id definatily mix it with something kind of yellowy/goldy to bring some warmer tones into it.

    once you have the stock sanded and stained (if you are doing that) to the desired finish, you can seal it or go straight on to the finish.
    To seal, mix 50/50 spar varnish with white spirit. Apply as much of this as the wood will soak up in 15min and wipe any residual liquid off after this time. Let this set up for a couple of days to a week. Next take some 600 or so grit wet & dry and put a spot of your homemade sealer on to the wood and sand it in creating a slurry that will fill the pores of the wood as well as flattening any high spots left by the initial application. Wipe clean and let sit for a couple of days.

    now you can start your finish..tru oil or boiled linseed oil. apply a drop - and I mean a single drop, and work it into the wood with your hand, spreading it out to cover.. rub until there is no surface residue - you are looking at making a film coating on the wood. let dry for a day or until completely dry to touch and repeat as many times as you want. minimum about 3 or 4 if you are just a wham bam thank you man, or many more if you plan on making sweet sweet love to your rifle and showing pictures of said love on this forum! Dont ever apply over the top of tacky or wet linseed oil, it will turn gooey and yucky.

    when finished and the action is back in your baby, buff it with a soft rag and then apply turtle wax, carnuba wax or a good non abrasive paste wax to the entire gun and buff it to a gleaming finish! bingo, several weeks after you started the rewards are paid off!
    Donald

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