Walther LGM2 Problem

[wonky donky]

[IMG][/IMG]



Pad.E If your reading this, your guns DON'T LOOK LIKE THIS

I'm in the middle of sevicing a Walther LGM2 single stroke pnuematic 10m rifle;
The owner complained it had lost power over time & sometimes it would fail to hold it's air!

I had already stripped, cleaned & reassembled the trigger parts, probe etc. & had started on the valve system when I realised this may be of interest to the few LGM2 owners out there.

The problem was basic lack of maintenance. The chamber had almost filled up with rust, the valve spring was "cacked up". I have also seen this problem on FWB 600's.

The valve seal is the same one as fitted to the Walther LGR series.
I have included a new seal together with the old one in the photo to compare.

The two cap head screws in the photo are used to hold the trigger block to the compression cylinder, these were put in using thread lock of some sort, a hair dryer will not help release this stuff a little more "aggression" is required here, but not too much, no "blow lamps" or paint guns please!

I've tried to show the compression chamber & valve housing in the second photo, you can just see the remainder of the rust in there, it was about 50% full of rust when I started, not leaving much room for the valve & spring, or air for that matter!

One interesting point is what looks like a spring guide in the third photo is a piece of solid flexible rubber that fits inside the hammer spring shown alongside.

Well for those interested I'm sorry I've not given more detail the job was almost done, what more can I say?

[Pad. E]

Pad.E If your reading this, your guns DON'T LOOK LIKE THIS

I know

Interesting article, which means nothing to me also.

[dvd]

I appreciate your writing because it has confirmed what a silent killer rust can be even in SSP target guns.
Though my gun has a stainless steel action, I was aware of the condensation issue by seeing a small wisp of it upon discharge.
Over here (Malta) on hot days, when the atmospheric humidity can hit the 80% mark, that can cause long term problems if left untreated.
The barrel is not stainless and when I'm done shooting, I spray a bit of oil down the barrel, close the bolt and leave the gun muzzle down for a few hours.
I make sure that NO oil gets back into the chamber. It is not needed there.

[wonky donky]

I appreciate your writing because it has confirmed what a silent killer rust can be even in SSP target guns.
Though my gun has a stainless steel action, I was aware of the condensation issue by seeing a small wisp of it upon discharge.
Over here (Malta) on hot days, when the atmospheric humidity can hit the 80% mark, that can cause long term problems if left untreated.
The barrel is not stainless and when I'm done shooting, I spray a bit of oil down the barrel, close the bolt and leave the gun muzzle down for a few hours.
I make sure that NO oil gets back into the chamber. It is not needed there.

Hi Dvd,

You would be alot better off coating you bore with Teflon, use a Grease, it's an easy process, you clean the bore,........coat with Teflon grease.........leave for 3omins.....wipe out the bore, a quick way is put a VFG felt pellet in & a pelleton top, shoot them both out...job done, I also coat my pellets ,with Teflon but not grease, & make sure they are dry when I use them!

[dvd]

Hi wonky,
what you said sounds ok. Personally I find that greasing the inside of the barrels is a bit OTT.
I have always used clean engine oil and it works brilliantly.
The same goes for wiping off any finger marks on the bluing and as a rust preventer.
Others swear by silicone oil as a rust preventer.
Anything that forms an airtight barrier between the metal and the atmosphere should do the trick I suppose.

[wonky donky]

Hi wonky,
what you said sounds ok. Personally I find that greasing the inside of the barrels is a bit OTT.
I have always used clean engine oil and it works brilliantly.
The same goes for wiping off any finger marks on the bluing and as a rust preventer.
Others swear by silicone oil as a rust preventer.
Anything that forms an airtight barrier between the metal and the atmosphere should do the trick I suppose.

Yes but you have do it every time you put your gun away! What I do you only have to do when you clean the bore, probably every 6/12 months in my case & no worry about rust!

But I respect what you say, I just don't like the idea of compressed air & oil!.Very Very bad!

[dvd]

Yes but you have do it every time you put your gun away! What I do you only have to do when you clean the bore, probably every 6/12 months in my case & no worry about rust!

But I respect what you say, I just don't like the idea of compressed air & oil!.Very Very bad!

Hi Wonky,
fair comment. I like to lavish TLC on my rifle after the pleasure it gives me of shooting it.
I suppose the teflon content works just as good as oil to seal the moisture out.
On the subject of barrel cleaning, I think some do overdo it at the risk of damaging the bore.I leave scrubbing till I see a deterioration of groups.

On compressed air and oil, the compressed air in the PCP is actually cooling down when it is expanding into the bigger volume of the barrel, therfore the risk of dieseling/bangs, is not there.(It is the opposite of what happens in a springer).

Re. oiling the barrel, I do be careful to spray a very tiny amount of oil into the barrel,without letting it get into the compression chamber. The main reason is so that the chamber stays oil free and does not accumulate small debris which otherwise might stick to the oil.

[xbow]

Interesting stuff and good Pics Wonky

[Villiers]

Yes it looks like it is need of some tlc ,plus some clean dive quality aiir .

[wonky donky]

Yes it looks like it is need of some tlc ,plus some clean dive quality aiir .

It's a single stroke pnuematic!

[Villiers]

Sorry action looks a lot like my LG300

[RobF]

its the same, its just the charging method thats different

a step by step strip would be a superb addition

[wonky donky]

its the same, its just the charging method thats different

a step by step strip would be a superb addition

Sorry Rob, The gun has gone back to it's owner now & I don't usually get enough time to do detailed strip instruction & photo's as the guns are very often presented to me only when they have failed & are required asap.

I have the following in my collection & could at a push, do a detailed stripping instruction & servicing guide, but it does worry me as I know there are a lot of richard heads out there! I'll think on it!!!
FWB P70
FWB 300
FWB 601
Anshutz 250
Walther LGR
Walther LGV
STEYR 110
AA S200
Webley Osprey super target
Webley MK3 super target
BSA CLUB
HW 55s Tyrolean
FWB 65 CLONE
I have others but can't bring them to mind at the moment!

[Cones]

I did a search on the Walther LGM2 and this was one of the only hits I could find.

I've just bought one. I pick it up later in the week.

Is there anything I should look out for with it apart from the above rust?

It has been used in a few competitions by the previous owner!

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/DSCF9616.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/DSCF9613.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/DSCF9614.jpg

Many Thanks

Mark

[wonky donky]

I did a search on the Walther LGM2 and this was one of the only hits I could find.

I've just bought one. I pick it up later in the week.

Is there anything I should look out for with it apart from the above rust?

It has been used in a few competitions by the previous owner!

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/DSCF9616.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/DSCF9613.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/DSCF9614.jpg

Many Thanks

Mark

Not common as they were a little late on the scene after the FWB 600 series was introduced but a very good rifle & pretty bullet proof..Should serve you well & last a lifetime if looked after. Enjoy & happy shooting!