Lamping – my take on it.

[snock]

Use as low a light as you can get away with; only using full-beam to make the rabbit freeze, if it looks like it might run.

Make quick sweeps across the land with a beam only as powerful to reach your effective range.

Keep it off when you don't need it on.

Bunnies haven't read our rule book on lamping, so they don't always play the game, but the above works well on most occasions.

[243guy]

get the lamp put it on the rabbit or vermin get in a comfortable then shoot.

[spacedog]

really useful info — thanks for posting!

[aas510]

very good info thanks.

[fullagar03]

really good informative thread,makes a whole lot of sense. keep up the good work.

[wayne t]

[QUOTE=Whitester;2102441]What you are about your read is how I lamp my shoots and it’s a sort of a beginners guide that cuts most of the crap. I can’t include everything as it would take too long but use these techniques or a combination of these techniques and you won’t go far wrong.

You can get good results on foot but the 4 X 4 is the way to get big bags. However it can get a bit boring after you've shot your twentieth sitter from 25 yards. So if you want to challenge yourself go on foot and go with a lamp.

Red filters aren't necessary and I personally feel that white light is better. A dimmer switch gives you an advantage but it's not essential. It's also easier with two ie one on the lamp and one on the gun. I’ll explain it with two people but the technique can be used by the lone lamper two.

Anyway, flick your lamp on and scan the field moving from the hedge line outwards. Only do this for a matter of seconds and not too far out in front of you, say 70 yards, now turn you lamp off . If you have picked up some eyes then the stalk is on. You have to be downwind and you have to be as silent as possible and that means clothes that don't make a sound. You also have to be aware of your silhouette on the horizon. Walk slowly towards the rabbit’s last position and try to walk along the hedge line so as to keep yourself between the hedge and the rabbit. Using the dimmer switch bring the lamp beam from the hedgeline out every 20 paces or so to try and locate new rabbits or check that the one you are stalking is still there. Remember you only want a dimm beam to locate not to illuminate. You will see there eyes and it shouldn't spook them.

Once you are in range the lampman and the gun man need to know that each one is ready. Once they are make sure the lamp man is behind the line of fire but to the side of the gun and far off enough so as not to illuminate him when the lamp is switched on.

Using the dimmer switch slowly turn the power up, as you see the eyes reflecting back put the beam to the side of the rabbit so that it will light him up but so that it's not in his face and make sure the beam is on the side of the hedge so that when it's turned up, it effectively blocks the rabbits path back to the hedge.

Just increase the beam until the gun man can get a picture of the rabbit in his sights, then bobs your uncle, you've put a rabbit in the bag under lamp light, if only it were that simple.

This obviously works but rabbits do get jumpy in lamp light. They will either sit still as above, move slowly to another position or full on bolt.

If they are just slowly sloping off then dim the light and follow it until it stops and try again, it could be that you'll need to whack the lamp up full to get them to sit still but try the gentle approach first because a full beam can make them bolt and you could loose them forever.

Ok when and if they bolt it 's gloves off time. You need to try and stop them with the lamp. Follow them as best as you can with the lamp and try and put the full beam in front of them. In theory they should stop at the full beam unwilling to cross it and sit still, this is the point at which you should shoot them as they won't sit still for long.

This will work but sometimes they need a bit of encouragement to stop them in their tracks such as flicking the beam from side to side in a sort of strobe affect around the rabbits head. This is quite effective and works well but it can’t be done by the lone lamper and can only be achieved by a dedicated lamp man.

I’ve simplified it above and experience will tell you how to read a rabbits behaviour and what to do with the lamp in various situations. For me this is the hardest strand of our sport and apart from going in with a catapult there is no other shooting discipline that can match it for skill, IMOP. I’m still in no way an expert lamper and I would imagine it takes a good many years to become one. Some people try it and get fed up with going back with nothing so they buy NV in an attempt to increase there bag but stick with it, going out with an experienced lamper is a good way to learn.

So there you have it, this is my technique, it works. Some rabbits just won’t sit still so just leave those and move onto another. Also don’t be dis-heartened by empty handed trips, when I first started lamping I returned empty handed the first 12 times but then again I knew nothing about the subject then and that’s the key, there’s no substitute for experience so just get out there and gain some, you’ll be bowling over bunnies before you know it.[/

very useful thanks

[brows_16]

Fantastic thread, really helpful stuff, thanks!

[brian311088]

well done very useful

[brian311088]

good post

[Pinpoint]

Why do I read "buy a powerful lamp" and "a lot of cheaper lamps torches are too low powered" and then "keep the lamp on low a setting as possible, just as far as your shooting range?"

[Rmanthorpe]

Why do I read "buy a powerful lamp" and "a lot of cheaper lamps torches are too low powered" and then "keep the lamp on low a setting as possible, just as far as your shooting range?"

You want it as low as possible so you don't spook bunnies, but need the extra power there so you can up it to check your backstop.

HTH,

Rich

[Pinpoint]

So on my permission where there are just fields after fields of nothing, backdrop isnt really a concern so cheap, low power will suffice then? My scope uses any light very efficiently so I only need the slightest beam.

[angrybear]

I use an old low power LED head torch which barely shines 20 feet but still gives a reflection from the eyes at 30yds+ and a small tactical type high power LED shooting torch with pressure switch rifle mounted.
The headtorch is on the whole time & the rabbits don't seem to care, just flick on the other to shoot.
Someone further up the valley uses something thats as bright as an anti aircraft searchlight when he goes out.
steve

[whitevanman574]

go for nightvision your rabbit bag triple triples


lampings a thing of the past the only things lampings good for is use with the dogs

[Pinpoint]

go for nightvision your rabbit bag triple triples

So does your debt.