People say not to use nails to drive pins out, as the nails are pointed and flare the end of the pin, but they are fine if you grind the point off squarely
People say not to use nails to drive pins out, as the nails are pointed and flare the end of the pin, but they are fine if you grind the point off squarely
But you can buy a set of pin punches from the bay for £7.00 inc postage. I did last week.
Anyway, I stripped my CD trigger unit yesterday and gave the bits a good old polish. I'm a bit of a mechanical noob but I guess I'm not the only one on here. After reassembling I couldn't get the gun to cock. I posted a query about this last night on the main forum and received two helpful replies - I thought I'd pass on my comments.
First of all, is it worth doing?
Definitely!
The trigger is a totally different beast now. Light and precise first stage coming to a clearly defined stop before second stage - it's beautiful!
Two pitfalls I found:
1. Make sure you approximate the same or similar trigger-weight when putting your unit back together. If you follow this guide you will be removing the trigger-weight screw, so make a note of it's position so that you can copy it when reassembling.
2. Make sure the safety button is relocated correctly. Both factors can influence how the gun cocks.
Thanks everyone.
It's only a bloody pellet gun for Gods sake!
BASC member
Another rather basic newbie question.
What product would you re-lube this with?
And where would you put it?
It's only a bloody pellet gun for Gods sake!
BASC member
Thanks.
Will the tuning shown on this thread help remove the "creep/ spongeyness" i have on my tx?
Thanks
If anyone who has done this is reading this, what problems did you encounter when dismantling the trigger unit?