I was going to say to fit a red dot sight to it as I've done which adds weight but I don't suppose that's allowed for postal comps...
Eric.
My Beeman P3 (same gun, or basically so, as the HW 40): it's a good pistol, accurate: but too light for me, especially in the muzzle.
Anyone else noticed the same problem and if so, can you recommend something maybe 8 ounces heavier, and with the weight feeling more "forward"?
I'm not looking for something for hunting or for serious target competition, just a backyard plinker that I can use for postal matches.
Jim
UBC's Police Pistol Manager
"Nasty, noisy things, revolvers, Count. Better stick to air-guns." Sherlock Holmes, The Adventure of the Mazarin Stone
I was going to say to fit a red dot sight to it as I've done which adds weight but I don't suppose that's allowed for postal comps...
Eric.
That would help, I'll bet: but no, only open sights are allowed for our BBS comp; though I'm seriously considering mounting a red dot sight to it, for use WHERE permitted, and getting a second pistol for iron-sights-only comps.
Jim
UBC's Police Pistol Manager
"Nasty, noisy things, revolvers, Count. Better stick to air-guns." Sherlock Holmes, The Adventure of the Mazarin Stone
Jim..if it's single-stroke pneumatic that you're after then maybe the HW75 is the one...it's about half a pound heavier than the HW40 according to the specs....
Eric.
In some pistols there is room to fit a piece of lead (such as a .32 bullet) or plasticine to add weight upfront. Might be worth trying.
I made some lead weights to fit to mine as follows:
Inside the front of he frame, where there are 8 little recesses.
Inside the front of the overlever, glued in place between the barrel and (with the gun open) where the piston rod is.
Drill a shallow hole in the rib running forward from the trigger guard, press/araldite a small nut in, a lead block can the be screwed to that.
Perhaps I should just make clear, I made up a simple wooden mould to make each of these, all I'm trying to get is a roughly rectangular block. If need be it can be squeezed a bit in a vice to get a nice tight fit. I did not, repeat NOT, pour molten lead into spaces in the synthetic frame!
Hope this helps,
Iain
Are there any holes that I'd have to worry about blocking, lest the gun not be able to re-charge?
Jim
UBC's Police Pistol Manager
"Nasty, noisy things, revolvers, Count. Better stick to air-guns." Sherlock Holmes, The Adventure of the Mazarin Stone
UBC's Police Pistol Manager
"Nasty, noisy things, revolvers, Count. Better stick to air-guns." Sherlock Holmes, The Adventure of the Mazarin Stone
Sorted out a couple of pictures to show what I did on the inside of the frame, these are taken with the piston removed (remove the pin in its tail rod connecting it to the overlever assembly, then it will slide out of the compression cylinder).
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn75/IainKD/001.jpg
This started out as a plain rectangular block of lead, once I realised I had more room closer to the muzzle I built up the mould a bit more and added more lead - as you can see it's right at the limit and gets compressed by the tail of the piston rod in use.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn75/IainKD/002.jpg
Iain
Glad you found it helpful,
Iain