Oiling a stock!

[Ao]

Hi,

Anyone know any good online suppliers of oils that would be suitable for a walnut stock. I would prefer something darker than the normal traditional gun stock finish.

Thaks in advance.
Ian

[HARDRAR]

CCL produce the best for a traditional matt oiled finish. You can buy conditioning oil on its own, which will darken, bring out the grain and seal the surface.( It will also give you th trip of your' life if you smell it. Or they do a full kit with rubbing compounds, red root oil, grain sealer and hardener. the red root oil can darken the stock quite a bit though, to a deep ruby/wine colour.
Available from all good gun shops, but not necessarily Air gun dealers. I find the Tru oil too shiny and difficult to match in after repairing a knock/dent by steaming.
Most of the best London makers use CCL products.

Hope this helps?

[Ao]

Thanks for the tip - are there any online retailers? I have just seen this post on the Airgun Forum: http://www.airgunforum.net/agf/index...ST&f=1&t=8887&

WOuld stain also be a reasonable choice before oiling????
Could someone please outline the process of re-furbishing a stock as I am a bit confused with what I have read on other sites etc.... bullet points please...

Cheers
Ian

[Ridge Walker]

Don't spend money on expensive Specialists oils. Go to your local
DIY and get some Teak Oil. Cost around £2.50 a tin. Exactly the same as all of the other fancy brands, but you won't get ripped off

[Gun Collector]

Have a look round this site, you might find a lot of the info useful.

<< Stockmaking and other stuff >>

[jackg]

I spoke to a gunsmith on this.
His opinions were as follows:
Red root oil is linseed oil with oil of Alcanet added.
Raw linseed oil is better than boiled which is lumpy.
Linseed oil can sweat out in hot weather, but gives the old finish a lot of people want
Danish oil gives a satin finish from B & Q or similar.
Spirit based stain does not raise the grain the same as water stain.
He also gave me a small quantity of Fiddes powder stain to use, which I did.
Tru oil tends to give a hard finish which is difficult to repair.
So I used his stain and Danish oil from B & Q. Then I'll wax it. Nice and cheap.

[hwtyger]

I've been Tru-oiling my Tau 7s walnut grip
it's A BEAUTY now!really shiny, looks like it's been lackered!
but strictly follow the instructions though, or you'll get stains or drips

[Davestate]

Originally posted by jackg
I spoke to a gunsmith on this.
His opinions were as follows:
Red root oil is linseed oil with oil of Alcanet added.
Raw linseed oil is better than boiled which is lumpy.
Linseed oil can sweat out in hot weather, but gives the old finish a lot of people want
Danish oil gives a satin finish from B & Q or similar.
Spirit based stain does not raise the grain the same as water stain.
He also gave me a small quantity of Fiddes powder stain to use, which I did.

So I used his stain and Danish oil from B & Q. Then I'll wax it. Nice and cheap.

Just used Danish oil on my stock over the original walnut oiling that CS did on my CS800, I will then try the wax on top of the oil and post some pics later. (if it's deserving of pics, otherwise I'll strip it & start again).

[Jeff Goodman]

I have just finished refinishing a SLR 98 ( Walnut ) for a friend of mine and for the first time used CCL... took a bit of time but achieved a superb satin finish result as opposed to Tru Oil which is high gloss
J G

[Davestate]

Originally posted by Davestate
Just used Danish oil on my stock over the original walnut oiling that CS did on my CS800, I will then try the wax on top of the oil and post some pics later. (if it's deserving of pics, otherwise I'll strip it & start again).

Well, two coats of Danish oil & two coats of finishing wax later...
Harrier X Right hand pic
Left hand pic

I'm happy with the finish, but it could be better. The wax over the oil works a treat, leaving a satin to sheen sort of finish which is hard, non-slip and no doubt protects the wood from the elements.
However, I will strip to bear wood when I'm bored and have a couple of days to spare, because there are very small patches where an uneven coat of oil or wax hasn't been applied. (it could even be the original oil as applied by CS which is the problem. )