Anschutz LG250 damper unit refurb

[wonky donky]

Dampers on these guns are prone to corrosion which in turn can cause them to leak.

I have had cause to "right off" a 250 only a couple of weeks ago due to the damper unit breaking up causing the gun to recoil, this in turn created some internal play.
The knock on effect was the rearmost body tube pin split the body tube arond the location hole on the cocking lever side, the final nail was the cocking lever broke due to all the added strain.

[hwtyger]

That crack around the hole, that exactly what happened to mine..
So it ís cause by recoil, it's designed to survive withóut..
Read on BB's blog on pyramid that 250's are VERY prone to stock cracks in the pistolgrip too.

About the oil inside; Garvin, you used ATF. Was than recommended by Anschutz? I wonder, with bikes with suspension forks you can adjust its characteristics by changing amount and type (thickness) of the oil..How much oil is in it anyway?

Didn't see the seal you use on the rhondama site. Did you emailed them for this? Was it drop-in fit?
Did you replace the outside Oring as well? Any specifics for this? Or is that one an easy find..

[hwtyger]

My new 250 is very good! NO action rust! I already disassembled it, NO internal damage!Phew..
Gonna revise the internals, already ordered the breech seal, piston damper and spring.
About the damper seal, you still have a few Garvin?
I noticed theres a rubber behind the oildemper, in the endcap. This rubber should prevent the demper for hitting the endcap steel.
Did you replace this part? If so, with what?
Did you replace the steel pistonrings?

[Garvin]

• About the oil inside; Garvin, you used ATF. Was than recommended by Anschutz?
• How much oil is in it anyway?
• Didn't see the seal you use on the rhondama site. Did you emailed them for this?
• Was it drop-in fit?
• Did you replace the outside Oring as well? Any specifics for this?
• Or is that one an easy find..
• About the damper seal, you still have a few Garvin?
• I noticed theres a rubber behind the oildemper, in the endcap. This rubber should prevent the demper for hitting the endcap steel. Did you replace this part?
• If so, with what?
• Did you replace the steel pistonrings

?

Good grief hwtyger, that's a lot of questions.

To answer them in order:

• I think it was John pennineway.fswo or wonky donky who recommended using ATF. Anway, it's the right kind of stuff.
• As I said on the AVA thread, I didn't measure it but I guessed the damper holds about 35ml of oil, give or take 5ml.
• Rhondama should have the damper seals - contact them!
• Yes, the seals are push fit.
• I kept the original O ring, it was in good condition.
• No, I have no spare damper seals, sorry.
• I think the flat seal behind the damper in the end cap was cork originally, I'm not sure because mine had disintegrated. IIRC I fabricated one out of thin rubber.
• Yes, I did replace the steel piston ring but I don't think it was strictly necessary. Like on the FWB300S the wear on the piston ring is negligible.

Good luck.

[hwtyger]

That seal behind the damper is rubber on mine. How thick did you make the replacement rubber, you remember?
About ATF oil, there are a LOT of different ATF oils...Shame anschutz doesn't state which is bést.
Did you order the steel piston seal from anschutz? Or made one yrself?
Thnx again..

[Garvin]

That seal behind the damper is rubber on mine. How thick did you make the replacement rubber, you remember?
About ATF oil, there are a LOT of different ATF oils...Shame anschutz doesn't state which is bést.
Did you order the steel piston seal from anschutz? Or made one yrself?
Thnx again..

Hello again.

Re the seal behind the damper, I've just remembered that after making up one myself I managed to find a factory replacement seal which I never fitted (I think it's that seal anyway...). It is made of quite hard plastic and is 26mm in diameter, has a central hole 18mm in diameter, and is 2mm thick. Hope that helps.

I was advised to use red transmission oil in the damper and I just bought the first one I came across. It seems to work a treat.

I did order the steel piston seal from Anschutz. I think it was actually for an LG380 but they are identical to the one on the An250.

Looking through my spares box I discovered that I do have one spare pair of damper seals which I will send to you (free) if you let me have your address by PM.

[hwtyger]

How did you lube yr 250?\
Manual says grease on the spring, ok, but what about the rest? Did you grease the ratchet and steel piston seal etc as well? Or used oil?

[hwtyger]

After rebuilding my 250, it still leaked. Or, I'd better say, leaked agáin..1 of the damperseals had come loose?! So I strongly advise to glue them when rebuilding to avoid this. Be aware to use oil proof glue and glue that doesnt eat the seals!
I sééms ok now, as far as I can tell. Still awaiting results in the 'standing in the cabinet-test' to show any oil leaks.
I does still have that 'rattle'though, when cocking. Like the FWB300 has too, sounds like some antibear trap.
I didnt have the rattle when I first cocked it first shots after rebuilt. However, than I stopped halfway the cockingcycle once to relocate my hand. I héard the antibeartrap kick in. Since than, the rattle's back during cocking..Probably it sticks?? I already had this befóre rebuilding and my previous 1 had it too.