[QUOTE if you take a peice of wood and just keep polishing it, the oil f rom the wax will keep seeping in.
it might take years to make the stock "bespoke" but it can be done quicker with the new stuff. [/B][/QUOTE]

Oil from wax? Touch of confusion here!

As Davestate says, you can't oil a waxed stock - once you've waxed it, nothing you put on top will penetrate and most things won't even dry over the top of wax.

There are loads of different oils for wood finishing:

Linseed not often used, except on very small items raw will take 3 days to dry & collect every bit of airborne crap for miles in the process. Boiled takes 24 hours, but neither is very durable.

Pure Tung oil (AKA China Wood Oil) is the most durable oil finish, shrugs off water and is resistant to heat and alcohol. Takes 24 hours to dry but if kept in a dust free atmosphere and rubbed down with very fine silicon carbide paper between coats will give a superb finish. Needs about 5 or 6 coats.

Danish Oil, Teak Oil and all the other proprietary oils are normally a blend of Tung Oil and other vegetable oils with drying agents added. Give a reasonable finish, but can have a tendency to water stains.

If you love your gun so much that you might be tempted to give the stock a lick, your local woodworking supplier will sell you non-toxic salad bowl oil!

Wax gives a "mellow" finish which as Max says, will continue to improve with age and repeated application.