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Thread: waxed stocks

  1. #1
    bennyblanco Guest

    waxed stocks

    have a search and no one really mentions it. have oiled and waxed some stocks, after shooting can you wipe a waxed stock with an oily rag, or should you use a dry rag and then re-wax. thanks

  2. #2
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    i use a bisley gun cloth all over the rifle. they are impregnated with silicone . reseal the cloth back into its placcy bag to keep it sweet.
    Regards
    Seggy

  3. #3
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    I don't use gun-oil on the stock. Buff it with a dry polishing cloth.

    Rustam

  4. #4
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    Seconded, you can't oil a waxed stock, but you can wax an oiled stock.
    Rgds,
    Dave.
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  5. #5
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    both the safari which was american walnut, and mk1 superstar were stripped and waxed. looked the dogs wotsits.
    the only thing i found though was if like me you get blood on them while out, they have to be cleaned straight away.
    always a dry cloth for re-buffing. warm water and a re-wax after getting it dirty.
    after the orriginal wax i used johnsons beeswax to re buff.
    anyone have any comments on this, as a mate recons i`m doing wrong.

  6. #6
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    Originally posted by max headroom
    anyone have any comments on this, as a mate recons i`m doing wrong.
    Besides making the wood look nice, oiling a stock seasons the wood further. You don't seem to be doing that....

    Beware of blood on blued metal surfaces as well.

    Rustam

  7. #7
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    to me a rifle is a piece of engineering, and a piece of carpentry.
    put together it`s a piece of art.
    it is a tool if i say so.
    i look after each piece of art as it needs to be looked after.
    the woodwork on some of the pieces i have lost would look like nothing else in a museum.
    i think the remington 30 cal. i had stolen would prove that.
    brought from a rusty relic to a sought after prize in the sixties.
    rusty, if you take a peice of wood and just keep polishing it, the oil f rom the wax will keep seeping in.
    it might take years to make the stock "bespoke" but it can be done quicker with the new stuff.

  8. #8
    chub Guest
    bit ignorant about the stock upkeep.is it ok to use the pledge furniture polish.
    albert

  9. #9
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    Originally posted by max headroom
    rusty, if you take a peice of wood and just keep polishing it, the oil from the wax will keep seeping in.
    it might take years to make the stock "bespoke" but it can be done quicker with the new stuff.
    Never thought of it in those terms. What sort of 'new stuff' would you recommend?

    Thanks.

    Rustam

  10. #10
    Grumpy Guest
    [QUOTE if you take a peice of wood and just keep polishing it, the oil f rom the wax will keep seeping in.
    it might take years to make the stock "bespoke" but it can be done quicker with the new stuff. [/B][/QUOTE]

    Oil from wax? Touch of confusion here!

    As Davestate says, you can't oil a waxed stock - once you've waxed it, nothing you put on top will penetrate and most things won't even dry over the top of wax.

    There are loads of different oils for wood finishing:

    Linseed not often used, except on very small items raw will take 3 days to dry & collect every bit of airborne crap for miles in the process. Boiled takes 24 hours, but neither is very durable.

    Pure Tung oil (AKA China Wood Oil) is the most durable oil finish, shrugs off water and is resistant to heat and alcohol. Takes 24 hours to dry but if kept in a dust free atmosphere and rubbed down with very fine silicon carbide paper between coats will give a superb finish. Needs about 5 or 6 coats.

    Danish Oil, Teak Oil and all the other proprietary oils are normally a blend of Tung Oil and other vegetable oils with drying agents added. Give a reasonable finish, but can have a tendency to water stains.

    If you love your gun so much that you might be tempted to give the stock a lick, your local woodworking supplier will sell you non-toxic salad bowl oil!

    Wax gives a "mellow" finish which as Max says, will continue to improve with age and repeated application.

  11. #11
    Grumpy Guest
    P.S. That's me with me woodworkin' 'at on, not me shootin' 'at!

    If you want a reasonable but unexciting finish that'll take anything that you throw at and don't really care too how it looks use Yacht Varnish!

  12. #12
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    I recently bought a CS800 that came with an oiled finish. I applied 3 more coats of Danish oil followed with 2 coats of wax. Result, more than happy with the finish. I then attended the HFT shoot at Millride where the stock was scratched to ribbons by the barbed wire all around the place.
    When I got home, I spent a good 10hrs removing the finish down to bare walnut, I applied an American walnut stain, 8 coats of danish oil &, so far, 1 coat of wax. I will finish with probably 2 more coats of wax when my arms out of pot. Pretty darn pleased with the result so far, and as already mentioned before, waxing will improve with time.
    Rgds,
    Dave.
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  13. #13
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    Originally posted by Davestate
    and as already mentioned before, waxing will improve with time.
    Provided it does not get sanded down again after Round 3.

  14. #14
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    It won't Rustam, there was a picture of Gary_C at Millride taking a shot, prone with his jumper rolled up underneath his stock. If only I knew that was allowed before.
    Rgds,
    Dave.
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  15. #15
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    Wink

    Disqualify him.

    That's an external support.

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