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Thread: BLINGED PRE-WAR

  1. #16
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    Feb 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leicastuff View Post
    I remember that article, didn't realise it was that long ago.

  2. #17
    edbear2 Guest
    Well, its less rusty now and I have just pieced it together enough to get an idea of what it will look like....am now thinking maybe blue after all!....have a few other ideas, ie. antique brass, mix of blue/nickle, browning (the scope tube is brass, so would match) but what do you guys think.....the missus says the lord mtg is "pig ugly"...but I quite like it....The spotters out there will see that its actually a std. no2, not a D!.as for the airgun world gun, its certainly different, and the bipod on one of those must be a first!.......it reminds me of a degtyarev 28 russian ww2 lmg minus its drum mag!......as I have said before, this was a wreck of a gun, a £70 tops bit of kit, I have others in the light rust, even patina state, they look fine and show their age well, and I would not dream of changing them.Refinishing is always a hot topic for collectors of anything, but if we all did and liked the same stuff, how boring would that be........pics here;

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7612687471706/

    P.S. thanks for the nice compliments, but I dont consider myself to be a patch on some of the guys even I have met through the years....anybody who has done a few years in a machine shop could easily make a complete airgun from scratch with the exception of the barrel....its just getting it to look "right"

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Eddie mate that is stunning!
    As contraversial as this may be to collectors I've now decided the next run of the mill mid twenties L pat I get is getting the 'treatment'!
    So there!
    Paul.
    TX200 collector, ex - BFTO member and vintage BSA rifle anorak!
    Get yourself something useful.....
    HERE!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    That is beautiful. You've done a great job on that rifle. I've got a 1924 standard. Its just begining to rust, it is in need of a new seal and spring and a bit of tlc. Im going to have it re-blued. I want to fit a modern scope to it. Where did you find the mounts and what could i expect to pay for a pair that would take a scope with a 25mm tube?

    Thanks, tom

  5. #20
    edbear2 Guest
    Hi Tom...the mount I used is an american ward mtg...usually found on mossberg and similar .22 and larger guns.....I chose it because it is fairly contemporary with the gun, and the 3/4 dia scope doesn't "overpower" the overall look...the block between the mount and the cylinder I made myself....I was going to use some quality steel period mounts (leupold/p.hale) or similar, and machine the bases to suit the cylinder, then silver braze them on....but was a bit concerned about the heat needed....the block I have made has a much larger contact area, and I can use a tin/silver low temp alloy, which is strong, but requires only propane......Basically you have to make your own, or get someone to do it as these guns never had the provision....I have looked at making a set of "figure of eight" clamps..discounted that....scope rail a'la webley mk 3 would work with a lightweight scope, as the webley ones were badly spotwelded and are real pain to repair....I use a spotweld drill to take them right off and then tig weld them....200-300% stronger, but a bad design in the first place!.....that leaves milling grooves.....really easy to get this horribly wrong, you need to set it up spot on, and the correct cutter, but I chose not to do this as I can "unstick" my mount anytime and put the gun back as it was......last options are to braze steel rings to the cylinder....have covered this above....and finally tig weld steel rings on...this is O.K. and may have been how the guy did the one in the pics posted earlier in this thread.......its not a quick/simple job however you go about it really....

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Surrey
    Posts
    8,585
    ABSOLUTELY DISGUSTING







    Nice job Eddie, now lets see you do it to the Service

  7. #22
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    Nov 2005
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    Polishing,

    Heres a webley premier that met the same fate........


  8. #23
    edbear2 Guest
    binners...we both know that WONT happen!
















    Its at hydrographics, in the tank as we speak







    NOT!

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by t-10 View Post
    That is beautiful. You've done a great job on that rifle. I've got a 1924 standard. Its just begining to rust, it is in need of a new seal and spring and a bit of tlc. Im going to have it re-blued. I want to fit a modern scope to it. Where did you find the mounts and what could i expect to pay for a pair that would take a scope with a 25mm tube?

    Thanks, tom
    Hi,

    There are still lots of steel Parker Hale bases about, both two piece and the later one peice bases. The older ones will need PH rings but the later one piece types will fit 11mm mounts. These are drilled and tapped to the reciever.
    I seen periodish scoped Bsa Standards they had PH bases on them
    Or there are probably several modern bases that can be modified.

    Cheers
    "helplessly they stare at his tracks......."

  10. #25
    keith66 is offline Optimisic Pessimist Fella
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    Jul 2007
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    Do a search on here for scoped Mk 3 webley, i did a set of mounts for one a few years ago.

  11. #26
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    Apr 2007
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by edbear2 View Post
    Hi Tom...the mount I used is an american ward mtg...usually found on mossberg and similar .22 and larger guns.....I chose it because it is fairly contemporary with the gun, and the 3/4 dia scope doesn't "overpower" the overall look...the block between the mount and the cylinder I made myself....I was going to use some quality steel period mounts (leupold/p.hale) or similar, and machine the bases to suit the cylinder, then silver braze them on....but was a bit concerned about the heat needed....the block I have made has a much larger contact area, and I can use a tin/silver low temp alloy, which is strong, but requires only propane......Basically you have to make your own, or get someone to do it as these guns never had the provision....I have looked at making a set of "figure of eight" clamps..discounted that....scope rail a'la webley mk 3 would work with a lightweight scope, as the webley ones were badly spotwelded and are real pain to repair....I use a spotweld drill to take them right off and then tig weld them....200-300% stronger, but a bad design in the first place!.....that leaves milling grooves.....really easy to get this horribly wrong, you need to set it up spot on, and the correct cutter, but I chose not to do this as I can "unstick" my mount anytime and put the gun back as it was......last options are to braze steel rings to the cylinder....have covered this above....and finally tig weld steel rings on...this is O.K. and may have been how the guy did the one in the pics posted earlier in this thread.......its not a quick/simple job however you go about it really....
    I was thinking of scoping up one of these pre-war BSAs. I like your option ideas but as you say it would be nice to remove the sights and mounts so the gun can revert back to its original form. I was thinking about a C clamp that would clamp around the cylinder leaving the bottom open for the cocking link to pass, clamped tightly to the cylinder with a bolt/screw above the cylinder through the top part of the clamp with the mount and sight above. Either a one piece mount or two using the thin old fashion style scope in keeping. The inside of the clamp to cylinder would be lined with a piece of rubber strip both sides that would grip better than metal to metal of the clamp and cylinder so it wouldn't mark the gun. The trigger housing would act as a natural recoil arrestor and the clamp designed around the trigger guard would act to stop the mount from moving left to right. Do you think this would work or is there an easier way to scope a pre-war BSA without modifying the gun itself?

  12. #27
    keith66 is offline Optimisic Pessimist Fella
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    The Webley mk 3 i did has leupold turn in rings sat on ring bases bored to fit the cylinder with a close sliding fit, the back one was located up against the breech block & the rear stock bolt mounting screw located it. Front mount was cut to allow cocking lever to pass. Both were bonded on with loctite engineering adhesive. This way the rifle could be returned to standard with little effort ( loctite unbonds at approx 170 degrees c) only thing left would be small gap where mounts were inletted into the stock.
    Since doing the job ten years ago the rifle has been used a lot and has never lost its zero.

  13. #28
    edbear2 Guest
    Thats a good way to do it!....a lot of people do not realise the range and strength of sealing/bonding/engineering adhesives around these days ......I have seen no end of barrels disfigured by punch/hammer marks around the sights, when a degrease and penetrating bearing set grade loctite will sort it out........if the rearsight say is REALLY loose, I always have a stock of old feeler gauges to make into shims to put under the sight, and then use the solution.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Alkmaar The Netherlands
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    682

    Inspired by this post,I had to make one . :-)

    After realising the pitting INSIDE the barrel and cylinder,where to serious to be fixed, I went looking for a nice period scope ...

    In the mean time I started to get rid of as much pitting on the outside as possible,but some parts where left as they where,the pitting was to deep.

    Last week my "vintage" scope found its way to my door.

    So after a short discussion with my friend,we decided to go for a pair of scope grooves,instead of some kind of extra mounting system.














    -------------------------
    Frank

  15. #30
    edbear2 Guest
    Hi frank.......although I am biased..that looks the part mate....is it a md4 mossberg scope?.......it was one of the ones I was considering........I am also impressed that you went for it all out, and milled scope grooves!!....(on mine, the mtg. screws are dummys,and the mounting block was attached with a copper/bronze filler, which means I can return the gun to standard).....I think your mounting may be the way to go, as I am having a few zero issues with the scope due to the plunger system (I recently dicovered a lyman "poloroid" 3/4" scope with a heavy set of springfield type mounts, so may be reworking mine soon)

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