BSA prewar construction method.....quality of course!!

[edbear2]

I have been taking apart a damaged 39" imp mod D today.........I mean REALLY taking it apart!........with just a bare action, I was heating the joint of the air cylinder/Barrel with a torch, when at just about 300 degrees of heat, the joint started weeping globules of soft solder...s'funny I thought, assuming it was a brazed joint, and with a canvas strap wrench, gave the cylinder a gentle twist........it only unscrews!......the barrel end is threaded with the same size thread as the trigger block........quality or what

[keith66]

That doesnt surprise me! useful bit of info to know, i have one with a set of cold chisel scope grooves and keep looking at it. I feel a new cylinder coming on! Interestingly try an Airsporter breechblock on it, they are the same thread & virtually interchangable but with much longer stroke.

[silva]

Hi Edbear,
Thats very interesting, perhaps thats why you can see the different layers of steel around the loading ports on some rifles.

[Raygun]

Hi edbear,

I've commented on the quality of the engineering on these old BSA's before.
It really is superb and would never be considered today.

I wonder just how much (cost) they would be to produce today. Probably rank up there with the German target guns no doubt.

There's a lot to be said for the older methods. I wonder just how many of todays "Superguns" will still be going in 90/100 years.

ATB
Ray.

[sprucetop1]

Edbear, that's most interesting. Can you please post some pics. of the threaded area at the front of the air cylinder?.......John

[I. J.]

There's a lot to be said for the older methods. I wonder just how many of todays "Superguns" will still be going in 90/100 years.

ATB
Ray.

And how many of us would be willing to fill a 100 year old pcp with 200 BAR.

ATB
Ian

[jjjjjj]

Now iam wondering if the barrel unscrews as it looks like a join there and i have a mark 1 that someone has cut the barrel off ?????????????
JJJJJJ

[Binners]

And how many of us would be willing to fill a 100 year old pcp with 200 BAR.

ATB
Ian

I know a man that can

[edbear2]

Have done a couple of pics..here;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7616480284317/

If you look at the transfer port, you can see the result of a previous washer breakup many years in the past.....the piston screw has been contacting the base....this area had been bead blasted, and the remnants of the old washer/disc removed before pic taken.....a new washer had been fitted (many years ago) and the gun was still fairly smooth and giving 650 F.P.S. before I took it apart!

The other thing often seen is lead remnants from either people loading THEN cocking, or the usual ball bearings.......so although this has been discussed/posted before....PLEASE unscrew the backs off any old guns you buy, even if all seems O.K., and get a strong light inside....you may save youself a big bill!!!........its an easy fix to repair......using a cutter with a short pilot......may have a chat with our tool regrinder company and get a radiused cutter done to see if it improves the airflow...i.e. transfer port left the same size, but a smoother entry rather than just a chamfer of 45 degrees they come with.....will do a sketch now and add to pics posted as easier to look at a pic!!!

[Binners]

Great pictures Eddie. I have just blown them up and wondered what 'LOAD 3' means?

[BC312]

Its not Load 3 is it, that would mean its .25 cal.
Looking at the end seems to be typical of the damage caused not only by ball bearings and nails etc but the leather washer screw from coming off and damaging the port hole, that's why i am concerned about the best method of washer assembly when repairing these great guns. I have seen quite a lot of non standard washer jobs in the past, bit confusing what is the correct official type for these models when there are no reference to washer and screw parts to look at. John Knibb's sells two types for these BSA's. Which would be better to use, which would give piece of mind for the washer screw not to come off and give better protection to the end of the cylinder if the washer or screw failed etc.

[Prewar]

Eddie, it's really interesting to see the pics....I always thought they were brazed tubes, fantastic old rifles

[Hares Ear]

And how many of us would be willing to fill a 100 year old pcp with 200 BAR.

ATB
Ian

With a pump or divers bottle.

[edbear2]

.
i am concerned about the best method of washer assembly when repairing these great guns. I have seen quite a lot of non standard washer jobs in the past, bit confusing what is the correct official type for these models when there are no reference to washer and screw parts to look at. John Knibb's sells two types for these BSA's. Which would be better to use, which would give piece of mind for the washer screw not to come off and give better protection to the end of the cylinder if the washer or screw failed etc.

I agree mate......I have however done more than one of these that had not been apart for donkeys years and I am pretty sure the original set up is a cupped leather washer, with a plain thick flat leather washer inside this for support, with a countersunk (dished) center brass disc up front secured by a countersunk slotted screw......with the current replacements on offer, as long as all is spotless on assembly and a thread locking compound is applied, all should be fine....at the end of the day most of the guns I have stripped that have had the worst damage have also shown other external signs of mistreatment (vise marks etc.)......These were premium priced expensive guns when new, but over the 70 - 104 years that cover the age of most examples around now, the care and upkeep they they would have received when relatively new has not been kept up as the years have passed.....I have a couple of guns, that even well used, are as tight and crisp as a nearly new gun, but airguns in general are subject to huge abuse as they are so simple to work on, and many are shot and shot until something breaks......the problem with these BSA's in particular is that they are so well constructed that they just keep on working with little outward signs of distress although the innards are coming apart!!!....only a very low power output or sound of a broken spring in days gone by would be the cue for a stripdown.......you woudnt dream of using a PCP rifle for 50 years without a service....ANY spring gun is the same. I am lucky I spose' that my dad was an engineer and taught me at an early age to look after my hard earned tools, fishing tackle, guns etc......Its a 10 min job to have one of these in bits once a year for a clean and check....plus you spot anything wearing loose etc......how many stocks for example on 60's / 70's guns have you seen trashed for the want of checking all the screws are tight before putting it away?......its used to be in the brochures that came with every gun I ever bought new when younger ie. "2-3 drops of oil every 500 shots, clean after use, check all screws " etc. etc......so there is really no excuse to let anything get as bad as some of the horrors I have seen!

[Binners]

I agree mate......I have however done more than one of these that had not been apart for donkeys years and I am pretty sure the original set up is a cupped leather washer, with a plain thick flat leather washer inside this for support, with a countersunk (dished) center brass disc up front secured by a countersunk slotted screw......with the current replacements on offer, as long as all is spotless on assembly and a thread locking compound is applied, all should be fine....at the end of the day most of the guns I have stripped that have had the worst damage have also shown other external signs of mistreatment (vise marks etc.)......These were premium priced expensive guns when new, but over the 70 - 104 years that cover the age of most examples around now, the care and upkeep they they would have received when relatively new has not been kept up as the years have passed.....I have a couple of guns, that even well used, are as tight and crisp as a nearly new gun, but airguns in general are subject to huge abuse as they are so simple to work on, and many are shot and shot until something breaks......the problem with these BSA's in particular is that they are so well constructed that they just keep on working with little outward signs of distress although the innards are coming apart!!!....only a very low power output or sound of a broken spring in days gone by would be the cue for a stripdown.......you woudnt dream of using a PCP rifle for 50 years without a service....ANY spring gun is the same. I am lucky I spose' that my dad was an engineer and taught me at an early age to look after my hard earned tools, fishing tackle, guns etc......Its a 10 min job to have one of these in bits once a year for a clean and check....plus you spot anything wearing loose etc......how many stocks for example on 60's / 70's guns have you seen trashed for the want of checking all the screws are tight before putting it away?......its used to be in the brochures that came with every gun I ever bought new when younger ie. "2-3 drops of oil every 500 shots, clean after use, check all screws " etc. etc......so there is really no excuse to let anything get as bad as some of the horrors I have seen!

Everything we all need to know in that summery Matey.
A very good reply/thread and a reminder to us all.