Baby BSA prewar model D

[Josie & John]

facinating stuff Eddie you never cease to amaze me.


Regards

John

[silva]

Hi Edbear,

Looks interesting and will be great to shoot ! You realize that its now only a matter of time now before you manufacture a Military Pattern !

Cheers

[Binners]

facinating stuff Eddie you never cease to amaze me.


Regards

John

Or me

[Binners]

Looks like a nice metal finish too. Whats the secret Mateycool:

[edbear2]

scotchbrite 205mm x 25mm deburring wheels at 3000 rpm........various grades...the medium gives a standard factory finish if you want an original looking gun after bluing.......or go over the whole thing after with a fine/very fine grade wheel (they are spindle mounted on a 3hp canning floor mounted motor, like you see in a polishing/plating shop)...then polish with sisal first then open weave mop to obtain a mirror finish if thats what you need .the scotchbrite wheels cost about £50 a pop......but I do it at work

http://alpineabrasives.co.uk/shop/pr...roductid=26066

[edbear2]

Been insane at work for a bit......but I have managed to do a little bit more on this baby by getting in early from time to time.....also, I found a murdered, stockless, model "L" at malvern fleamarket....see the pic of what the poor thing has suffered and this has speeded things up a bit.......anyway....instead of making things easy for myself at the start and reducing the damaged imp D cylinder to the same as an L...I made it 1/4 inch longer (more power!!!!).....the result being that of course all the cocking arm/piston ratio would be a fuss......so this model L turned out to be a godsend...I have used the D piston rod,shortened to suit the stroke, and the L secondary link, combined with the L piston....and it all cocks and fires like a good'un....so the finished article will be in the style of, and with the stock, sights and markings of a 1908 gun, but with slightly more grunt than a light model (thats if the extra 1/4" stroke makes any difference!)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7616789686347/

[silva]

Hi Ed,

Have a .22 45" Imp mod D with similar fractures to the cylinder just in front of the trigger guard, though no where near as bad, they are just hairline cracks.
I reckon its from it being repeatedly cocked with the trigger guard screws loose over the years. Not by me I would add.
Is it weldable do you reckon and what type of welding would it require. I might try and get it done locally as my van also needs some welding and I could use a bit of info.

Cheers Morgan

[edbear2]

Hi Morgan....Its a repairable item, but the only downside is you have to use an alloyed filler rod with a high resistance to cracking, to get the best mechanical results and to ensure a permenant job...I would use something like a CastoTIG 45612 W filler rod.....its a nickle alloy, which means the weld will not take a blueing solution.....The process to use is tig welding, and the cracks should be perfectly clean and degreased, and butted up tight...the barrel is blanked off with metal tape, as are the cocking slot and rear of the cylinder, plus all screw holes....you feed argon down the barrel and put some pin holes in the tape at the back to let the gas escape under control, thus ensuring the back of the weld joint is protected from the atmosphere (contamination!)....the weld should be right through the wll thickness, and will need cleaning out......this is also a pain as the threads need to be redone.......If it is welded, and the weld does not penetrate through, it will crack again in time. A different way would be to make a shaped patch and cover the cracked area, but this obviously would detract from the appearance and value.......depends if you just want it as a shooter.