BSA Standard dismantling problem

[sprucetop1]

I've just bought an early 1920's BSA Standard 0.22 with the 3 hole trigger block. The largest screw in the block (I think it goes through a hole in the sear) will not shift. The slot was a bit chewed, and I don't think I've made it worse, but it's solid as a rock. I've got it soaking in PlusGas right now, but it isn't going to shift easily I'm sure. Advice sought on the next move. I've had the rifle, (well padded) clamped to the bench, and I'm using a brace and screwdriver bit with plenty of weight on the brace.......but no go.

Help !!

[edbear2]

They can be roight buggas...had exactly the same problem..my fix (I am lucky with my profession) was to tig weld with 1mm alloy steel filler on to the screw head, being careful of the block....I built up a column of weld about 6mm high, waited for a few mins, applied plus gas whilst still hot, waited again, and used vise-grips to get it started......this procedure is also great on seized caliper bleed nipples etc. etc.....have been doing it for 25 years and have never been defeated yet! .......The screw can then be cleaned up on a lathe and reslotted........if you cant find anyone local who has the kit, and dont mind the cost of posting it, only too happy to do it for you..

[1984]

any old engineer will advise you the finest thing out for freeing up anything put together and is made of steel is diesel, let it submerge in the stuff for a couple of days though, this also applies to seized in pistons on engines for the car / bike enthusiasts.

[sprucetop1]

Thank you gentlemen for advice. Edbear....many thanks for kind offer.....I'll try PlusGas and/or diesel for 24/48 hrs., and if it's no go, I'll pm. you ref. the trigger block.

Everything on this rifle is seized up.....but it was cheap......

[red bob]

cant remember which is which now but isnt there a lock screw on the other side which if forgotten can lead you to think the screw on the other side is siezed when its actualy locked!.

[sprucetop1]

Red Bob....thanks for advice ref. the locking screw....but I've removed that. The only fastener left in the trigger block is the sear bolt and it is jammed tight......

[1984]

Thank you gentlemen for advice. Edbear....many thanks for kind offer.....I'll try PlusGas and/or diesel for 24/48 hrs., and if it's no go, I'll pm. you ref. the trigger block.

Everything on this rifle is seized up.....but it was cheap......

forget plus gas / wd40, use diesel mate. drop the whole lot in if you want, it will free up every moving part within a couple of days, diesel is renowned for working its way between contact surfaces and lubricating both, if its rusted to hell it will need to soak in the stuff a little longer but it will still free it up.

[edbear2]

any old engineer will advise you the finest thing out for freeing up anything put together and is made of steel is diesel, let it submerge in the stuff for a couple of days though, this also applies to seized in pistons on engines for the car / bike enthusiasts.

Totally agree with this advice......The problem in this instance I expect is that once the screw slot is damaged, you have no purchase to get it started even if it has loosened up......I leave very rusted parts in the stuff for a couple of weeks sometimes.....I have had old guns where half the screw head is missing where it has broken away!.....If it wont budge with a well fitting turnscrew, and a couple of taps on the handle.....its into the smelly stuff.....Problem is that, like most on here I suspect, when I start or get a new oldie to work on, I want to get it apart NOW!.....and I have in the past damaged screws etc. due to lack of patience....dont do it these days because a set of screws for a prewar (if you can obtain them) will set you back as much as, or in excess of £40