Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

[ggggr]

seen two of these recently and dont rate them. The trigger rocks and the piston wears on the cocking slot. If you get one then I would try it with a G25 mainspring to give it an easier life. If your cocking slot is worn, then you can get it welded up (Red Bob off here has done a few pistons for me and is doing a G80 one now---- just sent him the pistons, rather than the cylinder as well,to save on postage costs and you will probably need to use a bit of wet and dry paper to get the piston to fit properly again---about 5 or ten minutes of messing around---which I prefer to it being a p-ss fit).
I advise you to take the front sight off before you start the strip as this is fragile. Undo the two front stock screws and the rear one at the front of the trigger guard and lift action out of the stock. You can knock out cocking lever pin if you want to lube this up but barrel will come out by removing the barrel pivot pin. If you want to get at the barrel plunger and spring, you will need to put pressure on the plunger and undo the little grub screw on the side of the breech block enough for the plunger and spring to come out. deal with that now and replace them. Go to next post.

[ggggr]

You can now take the end cap off the cylinder and remove the pin holding the trigger unit in. When you remove the unit, a thick washer should follow but this is often put behind the guide by mistake. This washer helps to stop the trigger from rocking. The trigger adjusting screws were corroded on the one I stripped so I just removed the trigger and sear and the spring and lubed them up. They had corroded in so I used a bit of "plus gas" to free them first. The pins are held by little circlips similar to Webley trigger pins. Once you have this sorted put it to one side. To remove the mainspring etc get your bit of tube with a cutaway (see very first post in guide) OR with this you can get away with a bit of brush handle. You will see a big nut on the underside of the cylinder. This needs undoing like the Gamo set up, so put your bit of wood down the cylinder to keep pressure on while you undo the nut. Once its out, release pressure and remove the thing it screws into, guide, spring and piston. Piston washer is held on (on the ones seen, which I think are late ones) by a slotted alloy nut. Undo this with a forked screwdriver or similar if you want to remove the piston washer and buffer. The one I did was a bugger to get off as it had been cross threaded. I managed to clean it up and get it back on to fit by winding it on with some cutting and tapping paste (trefolux I think). Go to next post.

[ggggr]

So you have your gun striped and lubed and your piston washer on the piston. Replace the piston in the cylinder (often with leather washers you have to push on the edge of the washer to ease it past pivot holes or where the cocking slot ends) and then the mainspring and guide. Replace the thing the rear stock bolt screws into with the boss facing the rear of the cylinder. Use your bit of wood to compress the spring enough to get the bolt that secures it back in and tighten it up. Replace the spacer washer in the cylinder and then the trigger unit and locate it with its pin. Replace the barrel in the breech jaws and tap the pivot pin back in then relace the cocking arm if you removed it at the start. Replace action in stock and put foresight back on. On the one I did, I swapped the socket headed front stock screws for slot heads. They are 2ba thread and about 10p each from an engineers supplier. The rear stock bolt is 0Ba but you may have to file up the head to fit the trigger guard. Like I said earlier on, try a G25 spring to give it an easier life. If your stock broke at the front (assuming that the gun would have to be a plinker now) get two lugs welded at the front of the cylinder and tap them 2Ba and drill the stock lower down to fit them in a better position.