Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

[ggggr]

Its worth noting that this hole in the cylinder can stretch when big springs have been fitted. Im sure there are people on here who can weld them up and redrill but just dont fit a powerful spring. Meteor springs seem a better fit in hawks than hawk spring Ive tried recently and the Diana 25 spring remains a soft plinkers option. Release pressure on cylinder and end cap and mainspring should come out. Ease piston out. These had a ptfe washer rivetted on (Nibbs sells them ) But I prefer a leather one held by a screw and nut. SEE THREAD "hawk mk 1 info" post 13 by DCL DAVE. Thats the sort of thing I did. Lube up and put back together. Piston in and then mainspring and push down on cylinder the same as in stripdown to replace end cap and pin. Place sear and searspring on safety catch and slide into housing,locate,put pin in and circlip on. Fit trigger spring onto trigger with long leg behind trigger and locate,pin and circlip. (if your cylinder pin hole is worn and cap is a little off the cylinder, you may have to use a piece of shim steel to cover the gap to stop trigger spring going into it whilst you are replacing it. Replace cam in breech and replace circlip. Replace barrel and secure. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

Place breech in jaws and locate pivot pin in right jaw and line up with pivot hole. Push it in just enough to locate and then put plunger spring and plunger into their hole and depress and then push pin right through. Replace cocking arm and roll pin. Fit action in stock and tighten screws.
The safety catch on Webleys are not great. The mk 1 and some mk2,s are automatic but if you cut the bit of the safety catch off at the front (the bit the cocking arm pushes) then they become manual. On the mk 1 there is a shelf on the side of the safety catch that stops the sear from moving. On the mk 2 its at the back an stops the trigger from moving but these (mk2) aseem more likely to break off. The Hawk mk3 has the "wrap around" catch where the rear of the trigger cant move upwards because it hits the wrap around. NEXT THE HAWK MK 2 AND HAWK MK 3.

[ggggr]

This strip also applies to the vulan except it has a different piston head set up, "a ptfe set up and a rubber buffer" according to Phil Bulmer, which may be changed for a stingray set up on some vulcans,again according to Phil Bulmer.
Read previous post about problems with fitting big mainsprings and the gun not cocking. A quick strip guide can be found on thread "Webley hawk disassembley" 7/o7/08, post 3.
Remove sights. Remove front two stock screws and one in front of trigger guard. Remove action from stock. Remove cocking arm pivot roll pin and then remove cocking arm. Break barrel and depress barrel plunger and remove pivot pin. Release pressure and remove plunger and spring. Remove breech block and barrel. IF YOU ARE GOING TO CHANGE BREECH SEAL WASHER ON CYLINDER IT IS ALWAYS EASIER TO DO IT WITH BARREL OFF---ALSO APPLIES TO PISTOLS. BREECH SEAL SHOULD HAVE ROUNDED SIDE FACING OUT. Undo trigger adjusting allen screw on top of cylinder end block to take pressure off trigger spring. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

Damn--lost a post. Anyhow,remove trigger pin circlips and remove the trigger pin and remove trigger and its spring. Remove other two trigger pins and pull out safety catch, sear and sear spring. Place cylinder, end cap down, on a block of wood, with the flat of the cap on the wood and the pointy bit overhanging. Push down and remove pin and release pressure. End cap, spring and piston can be withdrawn. The ptfe piston rings can be replaced with "o" rings but I dont know the size. I replaced 1 ring on a rough gun I had to get it going. clean and lube gun and put back together. Put piston, spring and endcap in cylinder (as with removal) and push on cylinder and replace pin. The breech block can be placed in jaws and located with pivot pin. Depress plunger and spring and push pin home. Replace cocking arm and pivot roll pin. Place sear spring onto sear and sear onto safety catch and put into trigger housing and line up with pins. Push the front two pins through and replace circlips. push trigger spring into end cap and push trigger up until it lines up and push that pin through and secure with circlip. Tighten the adjuster screw on the end cap. Go to next post.

[ggggr]

The back of the sear spring can be hooked over the top of the sear with a small screwdriver or two. Replace the action in the stock replace stock screws and replace sights.

[ggggr]

I was hoping someone would put up the Webley sheets but they aint yet. The Osprey is more or less a sidelever Hawk mk3 and the trigger info above applies. Remove sights and the 2 stock screws, one at fore end of stock and one in front of trigger guard. Remove action and watch out for lump of metal in stock that helps locate rifle. Unscrew loading tap lever screw and remove spring and push out tap. You can change the seal if you want. Unscew trigger adjuster on top of endcap and remove circlips from trigger pins. Remove trigger pin and trigger and its spring. Remove other two pins and slide out safety, sear and sear spring.Take circlip off the ratchet and remove pin,ratchet and spacer (noting how it goes). Unscrew the pawl spring screw and remove spring and pawl. Knock out cocking arm pin and remove cocking arm. Knock out sidelever pin and remove sidelever and spring (noting how it goes) .Undo the allen screw in the end cap that secures the cylinder end pin. Push down on cylinder end plug and remove the cylinder pin. Release pressure and the end plug should come out, followed by mainspring and piston. (I had a problem with the endcap being really tight and it was a case of pointing it into some rap and waiting for iy to move and then knocking it out with a piece of wood) in this case ease it before you replace it. GO TO NEXT POST.

[ggggr]

You can replace the piston rings with "O" rings as in Hawk mk 2 and 3 posts. Clean, lube and put back together. Put piston, spring and end cap back and replace cylinder end pin. Locate sidelever spring and sidelever and replace its pin and tighten the small grub screw up in the trigger block that pushes onto the pin (have a look at the block from the back where the sidelever goes). Replace cocking arm in its slot and line up with hole on sidelever and replace its pin. Replace the pawl and its spring and then the ratchet (and spacer) and pin and circlip. Replace loading tap, spring and lever and make sure the lever is pressed fully home before tightening its screw. Replace the trigger as in the Hawk mk 2 and 3 posts above (to save me time). Locate action in stock, checking you haven,t dropped that little metal locating dowel. Tighten both stock screws and replace sights.