Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

[ggggr]

This is an early premier. As the premier has 5 pins in the trigger (including the guard) they can be more battered than other Webley pistols. It may be worthwhile filing any spread pins when you have the pistol apart. It is also worthwhile filing any burrs on inside of trigger housing and maybe stoning the sides of trigger and sear. I did this and used Gn paste on the sides.
Remove grips and rearsight (its up to you). Undo barrel catch screw and remove catch, plunger and spring. You can undo trigger adjuster lock screw and adjuster to make it easier to clean up housing. Remove front amd rear pins from trigger guard with 3/32 punch. Remove the trigger stop pin, then the trigger pin and withdraw trigger and its spring. Remove sear pin and withdraw sear and its spring. Undo barrel pivot lock screw and barrel pivot and lift barrel up and slide cocking arm out of its slot. Undo endcap (keeping pressure on ) and remove along with mainspring and piston. Do breech washer now if you want to (rounded side to barrel). Piston washer is ptfe screwed on. Clean and lube. Replace piston, mainspring and endcap. Locate cocking lever in slot and line up barrel with its pivot hole. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

Replace pivot screw and lock screw. Place sear spring in hole on top of sear and place it in housing and replace its pin. Then put trigger spring into trigger and push that into housing and replace its pin. Then replace the trigger stop pin. Replace the trigger guard and its two pins. If you have removed them, youcan now fit the trigger adjuster and lock screw. Replace barrel catch spring,plunger and barrel catch and replace its screw. Refit sight and grips.
Webley premier sears can wear and the gun wont cock. Thats part of the reason I suggested deburring triggr housing and stoning sides of trigger and sear. The burrs can stop the sear from moving freely and stops the sear from engaging with the piston. I used gn paste on the sear and trigger but WARNING--THIS STUFF IS SLIPPY AND I HAVE HAD GUNS THAT THE TRIGGER HAS GONE TOO LIGHT ON AND HAD TO CLEAN IT OFF AND USE MACHINE OIL. ---USEFUL TIP ON OLD GUNS!

[ggggr]

This strip will be easy for me to do. Remove sights and grips. Drift out barrel catch pivot if you want to grease it and the plunger. Remove pin at front of plastic cylinder sleeve and remove sleeve.Knock out pins at either end of triggr guard and remove it and the little sear spring. Remove the other pins one at a time to remove sear stop pin, sear,trigger and trigger spring. It then strips like the other Webley pistols. As the original link on this thread has been deleted, added a new one at the bottom. What I will say is this--follow the guide regarding the sear otherwise the thing wont cock (seen two with this problem). The easiest way Ive found to fit the safety catch is to just put it in with the cut out facing the back of the trigger and then fit the safety spring. The other thing is when you replace the endcap and guide, make sure the little plate the cocking arm pushes against is in place or the gun wont cock. I did that one Saturday night and then saw the bit in the tin put the bits in, DOH!
This guide should do the Hurricane and old Typhoon.
By the way--As these have the split ptfe washer, I have wound 1 turn of ptfe tape round the spiggot it goes on before replacing washer to save on getting new washer as the gun is just for plinking. Just trying this linky http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/.../131037909.pdf

If you fancy having a go at "tuning" the trigger then try this-

He is a bit about Tempest?Hurricane trigger fettling. Refer to these pics http://www.airgunspares.com/store/pr...t-Pistol-Sear/
http://www.airgunspares.com/store/pr...-Trigger-Wide/
I use 320 and 400 grit wet and dry paper to do them and they seem ok. With the sear, I polish both sides of the rounded bits on top, even though, the piston should not really touch them. I polish and try to take the angle back a touch more, the angled side of the cut out on the right of the picture. On the long leg I go the front face,the underside and the angled bit where it joins the back. (MORE ON THIS IN A BIT). On the trigger I do the flat face above the arc of the trigger blade, the face behind it and reduce the BUMP between that and the bit going up to the pin hole. This BUMP and the back bit of the leg of the sear are what "pauses" the trigger pull before releasing the piston. If you do a little work on the sear and the trigger, you can hold them in your fingers and rub one against another to get a good idea of this.Even with the BUMP on the trigger taken down a bit,I find slightly rounding the back edge of the sear helps. DO NOT GO MAD DOING THIS! Remember you can always have another go, but you cannot replace material.

A tuning link for the Tempest https://www.airgunnation.com/threads...r-tune.848192/


https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery....ebley-tempest/

[Vulcanator]

Here are a couple of links for the Tempest/Hurricane trigger group, I rotated the images.



Photobucket won't let me load these as images for some reason but the links should be good.

[ggggr]

The two guns are similar although the major is larger,has different sights, a longer cylinder and barrel and an adjustable trigger. Early versions had a small stock screw in front of the trigger guard and later ones the large bolt through the stock into the trigger block (5/16 BSF by the way). The front ones are 7/32 Bsf and you will have to get them from Nibbs if you need them unless somebody could make a batch up? The barrel and the trigger housing are interchangable on the guns but if you fitted the major barrel to a cadet you would need to retain the cadet cocking arm.
Remove stock screws and remove action from stock. remove cocking arm pin and cocking arm. Knock out barrel pivot arm remove barrel and watch out for plunger and spring which are just pushed into the cylinder and not retained. If you have to change the breech washer its a bugger to fit a new leather one (your on your own with that) but in AGW the bloke used a bit of plastic with 12mm OD and 8MM ID and habd finished it. I have heard of people using two "O" rings. If its a Major you can undo sear adjuster screw a bit then knock out sear pin and remove sear spring and sear. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

From her on its the same. The cadet and Major actually have the same trigger lever. Knock out the trigger pin and remove trigger, its spring and the little spring guide that looks like half a nail. You now need to unscrew the trigger block and may need a vice if the gun has not been apart for many years (or ever). On one I did I used the vice to hold the cylinder and placed a piece of thick flat bar in the trigger housing slot and levered it. (this was after plus gas and heat). This was why we removed the trigger--to allow this. Once undone,remove guide,mainspring and piston. Pison washer is leather held on by a special threaded nut. The piston rod used to be listed as a spare part but I dont know if it still is. Clean bits. See if trigger block will screw right home and slot line up with cocking slot. If not, Ive filed a touch off end of cylinder so you are not forcing thread on block. Lube and replace Piston, mainspring and guide and screw in trigger block. If you cant get proper mainspring then a meteor one cut to about 19.5 cm will do. Put guide pin in spring and locate and refit trigger and pin. On major refit sear and spring. Locate cylinder plunger and spring,refit barrel and then cocking arm. Replace action in stock and tighten stock screws. NEXT UP THE METEOR!



Just adding this that Ray (Abellringer) put up to help clarify things about the stock screws.



"Also posted in general airgun. This is in reply to a request to post an accurate thread size for the Front Stock Screws on both of these models. All of them are very similar and in fact will fit. It's worth noting there are two variations of screw; one has a reduced dia shank from the end of the thread to under the screw head; the other has the major dia all the way along to under the head. So starting with the correct one.

1] 7/32" BSF 55deg angle inc. 28tpi 0.219" O/D tapping drill 4.6mm

2] No 12 [7/32"] UNF 60deg angle inc. 28tpi 0.216" O/D tapping drill 4.7mm

3] 1BA 47.5deg angle inc. 28.25tpi 0.210" O/D tapping drill 4.5mm
Hope this helps in some way. "

[ggggr]

I think this applies to the Meteor mk3 version as well. The mk4 and mk5 versions mainly differ in that the mk4 has the single piece cocking arm and the longer slot in the stock and the mk5 has the articulated lever and the shorter slot. Sights differed a bit as well. Most pistons have the "keyhole" slot piston that the piston head slots into although some mk5,s Ive seen have the circlip set up like the scorpion. The front stock screws and the rear one are all 2BA thread. Later front screws are longerand will need cutting down or packing if used on an earlier gun. If you dont mind cheeseheaded screws, these can be bought for about 10p each from Chronos or the like. The earlier triggers had a wide metal trigger and sear. The later ones had narrower triggers and sears and the trigger became a slip on plastic thing you pinned onto the actual trigger piece. Ive seen sears with the large pivot hole round and others that are elongated. I think they all swap. Im noy sure if trigger pin sizes changed slightly at some point as I remember having to file some to fit the TE (mk3)version I had as a kid. The later versions have the trigger stop pin fitted so you only have to sort the other two. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

This is for the Slavia 618 and 622 ? There are small differences which you will see if you look up my thread "Slavia 618 stripped" on 10 /5/ 2009 http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....ghlight=slavia . Cartertools gun was slightly different to mine.
http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....a-618-stripped

[ggggr]

This is for all the ones apart from the later trigger, which I havent seen yet. Firstly remove the little trigger adjusting screw and its spring that goes in the centre of the stock screw at the front of the trigger guard. Remove the two front stock screws. Remove the rear stock screw you have taken the adjuster out of. Lift action clear of stock.If you want to remove loading tap, you will need a screwdriver with a gap ground in the middle of its blade or gently punch the retaining nut on RHS of tap while holding tap to stop the tang breaking against the stop screw. This nut should unscrew and there is a spring behind it. When removed, the tap should come out.Undo cocking arm pivot screw and withdraw cocking arm (you sometimes have to push the leaf spring on it up against the bracket to do this). Undo cocking lever lock screw and cocking lever screw and remove lever. Remove trigger pins, trigger spring,trigger and sear. Push down on the endcap and the cylinder end pin should push out. Release pressure, remove cap and mainspring or springs should come out.( the original guns came with 2 concentric springs But these may well have been changed) GO TO NEXT POST

[scratchyboy]

Hi im new so please forgive if not right place. I have a Cadet major and have followed instructions (including deburring and finally got all bits apart( thanks to ggggr). However, I cannot find anything that looks like a leather washer on the end of the piston or anything that looks like a washer could screw onto. At the front end of piston is a black rubber seal around the end but thats it. The rifle has been used and seems to work ok. At least it did before I took it apart. Am i looking in the wrong place as I asume the washer should be at the front end of piston ahead of the black rubber seal jobbie. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Bill

[Phil Russell]

I find it difficult to visualise what you have found as the Cadet and Cadet Major used leather piston seals. Have a look at the Chambers gun spares web page for the Cadet and you will find an exploded diagram. Maybe you have a leather seal but it has worn flat?
Any chance of a picture?
Cheers, Phil

PS please put any reply in Collectables as a new thread ... we try to keep this thread for 'strip instructions' only.