Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

[ggggr]

This strip will be easy for me to do. Remove sights and grips. Drift out barrel catch pivot if you want to grease it and the plunger. Remove pin at front of plastic cylinder sleeve and remove sleeve.Knock out pins at either end of triggr guard and remove it and the little sear spring. Remove the other pins one at a time to remove sear stop pin, sear,trigger and trigger spring. It then strips like the other Webley pistols. As the original link on this thread has been deleted, added a new one at the bottom. What I will say is this--follow the guide regarding the sear otherwise the thing wont cock (seen two with this problem). The easiest way Ive found to fit the safety catch is to just put it in with the cut out facing the back of the trigger and then fit the safety spring. The other thing is when you replace the endcap and guide, make sure the little plate the cocking arm pushes against is in place or the gun wont cock. I did that one Saturday night and then saw the bit in the tin put the bits in, DOH!
This guide should do the Hurricane and old Typhoon.
By the way--As these have the split ptfe washer, I have wound 1 turn of ptfe tape round the spiggot it goes on before replacing washer to save on getting new washer as the gun is just for plinking. Just trying this linky http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/.../131037909.pdf

If you fancy having a go at "tuning" the trigger then try this-

He is a bit about Tempest?Hurricane trigger fettling. Refer to these pics http://www.airgunspares.com/store/pr...t-Pistol-Sear/
http://www.airgunspares.com/store/pr...-Trigger-Wide/
I use 320 and 400 grit wet and dry paper to do them and they seem ok. With the sear, I polish both sides of the rounded bits on top, even though, the piston should not really touch them. I polish and try to take the angle back a touch more, the angled side of the cut out on the right of the picture. On the long leg I go the front face,the underside and the angled bit where it joins the back. (MORE ON THIS IN A BIT). On the trigger I do the flat face above the arc of the trigger blade, the face behind it and reduce the BUMP between that and the bit going up to the pin hole. This BUMP and the back bit of the leg of the sear are what "pauses" the trigger pull before releasing the piston. If you do a little work on the sear and the trigger, you can hold them in your fingers and rub one against another to get a good idea of this.Even with the BUMP on the trigger taken down a bit,I find slightly rounding the back edge of the sear helps. DO NOT GO MAD DOING THIS! Remember you can always have another go, but you cannot replace material.

A tuning link for the Tempest https://www.airgunnation.com/threads...r-tune.848192/


https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery....ebley-tempest/

[Vulcanator]

Here are a couple of links for the Tempest/Hurricane trigger group, I rotated the images.



Photobucket won't let me load these as images for some reason but the links should be good.

[ggggr]

The two guns are similar although the major is larger,has different sights, a longer cylinder and barrel and an adjustable trigger. Early versions had a small stock screw in front of the trigger guard and later ones the large bolt through the stock into the trigger block (5/16 BSF by the way). The front ones are 7/32 Bsf and you will have to get them from Nibbs if you need them unless somebody could make a batch up? The barrel and the trigger housing are interchangable on the guns but if you fitted the major barrel to a cadet you would need to retain the cadet cocking arm.
Remove stock screws and remove action from stock. remove cocking arm pin and cocking arm. Knock out barrel pivot arm remove barrel and watch out for plunger and spring which are just pushed into the cylinder and not retained. If you have to change the breech washer its a bugger to fit a new leather one (your on your own with that) but in AGW the bloke used a bit of plastic with 12mm OD and 8MM ID and habd finished it. I have heard of people using two "O" rings. If its a Major you can undo sear adjuster screw a bit then knock out sear pin and remove sear spring and sear. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

From her on its the same. The cadet and Major actually have the same trigger lever. Knock out the trigger pin and remove trigger, its spring and the little spring guide that looks like half a nail. You now need to unscrew the trigger block and may need a vice if the gun has not been apart for many years (or ever). On one I did I used the vice to hold the cylinder and placed a piece of thick flat bar in the trigger housing slot and levered it. (this was after plus gas and heat). This was why we removed the trigger--to allow this. Once undone,remove guide,mainspring and piston. Pison washer is leather held on by a special threaded nut. The piston rod used to be listed as a spare part but I dont know if it still is. Clean bits. See if trigger block will screw right home and slot line up with cocking slot. If not, Ive filed a touch off end of cylinder so you are not forcing thread on block. Lube and replace Piston, mainspring and guide and screw in trigger block. If you cant get proper mainspring then a meteor one cut to about 19.5 cm will do. Put guide pin in spring and locate and refit trigger and pin. On major refit sear and spring. Locate cylinder plunger and spring,refit barrel and then cocking arm. Replace action in stock and tighten stock screws. NEXT UP THE METEOR!



Just adding this that Ray (Abellringer) put up to help clarify things about the stock screws.



"Also posted in general airgun. This is in reply to a request to post an accurate thread size for the Front Stock Screws on both of these models. All of them are very similar and in fact will fit. It's worth noting there are two variations of screw; one has a reduced dia shank from the end of the thread to under the screw head; the other has the major dia all the way along to under the head. So starting with the correct one.

1] 7/32" BSF 55deg angle inc. 28tpi 0.219" O/D tapping drill 4.6mm

2] No 12 [7/32"] UNF 60deg angle inc. 28tpi 0.216" O/D tapping drill 4.7mm

3] 1BA 47.5deg angle inc. 28.25tpi 0.210" O/D tapping drill 4.5mm
Hope this helps in some way. "

[ggggr]

I think this applies to the Meteor mk3 version as well. The mk4 and mk5 versions mainly differ in that the mk4 has the single piece cocking arm and the longer slot in the stock and the mk5 has the articulated lever and the shorter slot. Sights differed a bit as well. Most pistons have the "keyhole" slot piston that the piston head slots into although some mk5,s Ive seen have the circlip set up like the scorpion. The front stock screws and the rear one are all 2BA thread. Later front screws are longerand will need cutting down or packing if used on an earlier gun. If you dont mind cheeseheaded screws, these can be bought for about 10p each from Chronos or the like. The earlier triggers had a wide metal trigger and sear. The later ones had narrower triggers and sears and the trigger became a slip on plastic thing you pinned onto the actual trigger piece. Ive seen sears with the large pivot hole round and others that are elongated. I think they all swap. Im noy sure if trigger pin sizes changed slightly at some point as I remember having to file some to fit the TE (mk3)version I had as a kid. The later versions have the trigger stop pin fitted so you only have to sort the other two. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

The pin for the cocking arm is different for the two versions and I fitted a roll pin when I was playing with one recently.
Remove sights and remove the 2 screws at the forend of stock and the trigger guard one. Carefully lift action from stock as trigger pins can fall out. Remove bottom pin and trigger should drop a bit. Remove top larger sear pivot pin and the trigger,trigger spring (bent wire thing) and the sear should come out together. On earlier version the trigger stop pin will also come out. REmove plastic end cap. Knock out cocking arm pin and remove cocking arm. (note piece of plastic In cocking arm on early version to stop pin moving). Break barrel and push in barrel plunger and knock out barrel pivot pin. Remove plunger and spring and then the barrel from the jaws. Place cylinder jaws down on piece of wood and using your bit of tube (SEE 1ST POST PG1) push down on guide and remove cylinder pin. Ease pressure and remove guide, spring and piston. The piston head may be loose if the piston buffer washer has rotted and crumbled (they all do). On the late version the retainig circlip may have broken and the piston will come out and leave the head behind! GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

I used a foot pump with a bit of wet rag to seal the adapter and put it in the transfer post and managed to blow the head back far enough to wangle it with a dowel. (same trick worked on scorpion). Piston washer is an "o" ring. I replaced a buffer washer with two bits of leather (not worth the hassle but I was curious) and have used a tap washer in the past.Clean and lube. Slide piston buffre and its washer onto piston head and insert into keyhole of piston and it should snap into place although you may have to file small chamfer on one side of washer. With circlip set up a piece of tube to push clip on would help but Ive done it wirh two small screwdrivers. Place piston, spring and guide in cylinder and push down with your piece of tube and refit pin. It is worthwhile changing breech washer as it is made of same stuuf as piston buffer. I make leather ones. Place brech in jaws and fit plunger and spring,depress and fit barrel pivot pin. Fit trigger stop pin (tape on left side of trigger housing stops them falling out) then offer trigger,spring and sear into housing. Locate sear and fit pin and then trigger should push up to enable trigger pin to be fitted. Replace plastic cap and refit in stock and fasten screws. ( if you adjust trigger at all, 1/2 turn of the little screw in plastic in the trigger can stop the sear from engaging).

[ggggr]

This is for the Slavia 618 and 622 ? There are small differences which you will see if you look up my thread "Slavia 618 stripped" on 10 /5/ 2009 http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....ghlight=slavia . Cartertools gun was slightly different to mine.
http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....a-618-stripped

[ggggr]

This is for all the ones apart from the later trigger, which I havent seen yet. Firstly remove the little trigger adjusting screw and its spring that goes in the centre of the stock screw at the front of the trigger guard. Remove the two front stock screws. Remove the rear stock screw you have taken the adjuster out of. Lift action clear of stock.If you want to remove loading tap, you will need a screwdriver with a gap ground in the middle of its blade or gently punch the retaining nut on RHS of tap while holding tap to stop the tang breaking against the stop screw. This nut should unscrew and there is a spring behind it. When removed, the tap should come out.Undo cocking arm pivot screw and withdraw cocking arm (you sometimes have to push the leaf spring on it up against the bracket to do this). Undo cocking lever lock screw and cocking lever screw and remove lever. Remove trigger pins, trigger spring,trigger and sear. Push down on the endcap and the cylinder end pin should push out. Release pressure, remove cap and mainspring or springs should come out.( the original guns came with 2 concentric springs But these may well have been changed) GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

Its a common question about mainsprings for these. As they are a Bas---d to cock anyhow, I think an old style Meteor spring to be about the best option although they will take the later one if you wont listen to sense.Withdraw the piston. It should have a leather washer rivetted to the piston. If this needs changing, either buy the leather one and the rivet,or try one of these options. (I tapped one piston to 5/16 Bsf and used a countersunk screw--You could tap some round bar and drop it in the piston to do the same job-- Or see whether you can get a ptfe washer that will fit and do the same thing. Im sure some modern guns must have washers near the right size). Clean and lube. Replace your piston. Replace sear,trigger and trigger spring. Now refit your mainspring and endcap and pin. If your gun has been grinding when cocking,the little Piece of fibre/nylon on the cocking arm may be worn. You can pick this out with a small screwdriver, put some araldite underneath it and replace it a few mm proud (leave araldite over night to go off). Replace cocking arm and pivot screw. Replace cocking lever, pivot and lock screw. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

Replace loading tap,spring and nut and tighten (again using forked screwdriver or punch for last couple of turns). Replace action in stock and tighten front two screws. Replace rear screw ---VERY IMPORTANT! You need to pull the trigger while you are tightening this screw to make sure it goes all the way home. If you do not, it feels home but can come loose when you cock the gun and result in a split stock. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. Replace the trigger adjusting screw and its spring in the centre of that screw. If this screw is missing then the screws out of a light switch plate can be cut down and the head filed to do the job and a biro spring can be used. The adjuster screw doesnt really do much and the guns seem to work fine without them.

[scratchyboy]

Hi im new so please forgive if not right place. I have a Cadet major and have followed instructions (including deburring and finally got all bits apart( thanks to ggggr). However, I cannot find anything that looks like a leather washer on the end of the piston or anything that looks like a washer could screw onto. At the front end of piston is a black rubber seal around the end but thats it. The rifle has been used and seems to work ok. At least it did before I took it apart. Am i looking in the wrong place as I asume the washer should be at the front end of piston ahead of the black rubber seal jobbie. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Bill

[Phil Russell]

I find it difficult to visualise what you have found as the Cadet and Cadet Major used leather piston seals. Have a look at the Chambers gun spares web page for the Cadet and you will find an exploded diagram. Maybe you have a leather seal but it has worn flat?
Any chance of a picture?
Cheers, Phil

PS please put any reply in Collectables as a new thread ... we try to keep this thread for 'strip instructions' only.

[ggggr]

A little rifle of the same size as Webley jaguar,junior,ranger, Diana 22, 23 and Weihrauch Hw 25 etc.
I did not remove the sights but took care not to damage the rearsight when stripping the gun.
Undo the front stock screw on the under side of the stock and also the front trigger guard screw, which is the rear stock screw. The action should lift out of the stock. There is a pin in the bracket that the front stock screw goes into. The cocking arm rubs on this pin and you need to remove the pin before you remove the barrel. These can be absolute swines on Bsf's but this one was ok. Undo the tiny barrel pivot lock screw and then the barrel pivot screw and remove the barrel and cocking arm from the cylinder. As the cocking arm has rivets I left it on the breech block. If you want to remove the barrel plunger and spring, then tap out the small pin that holds it in the breech block. I used a small piece of wood to push against the plunger and pushed the pin out with a punch. You can clean and lube this now and replace it back in the breech block.
The cylinder has a knurled end cap on the end and you will see a trigger adjuster screw poking through it. The cap is not threaded but needed a good tap with a small block of wood to shift it as it was very tight. You can remove the trigger adjusting screw now as well.Unhook the trigger spring off the small tang at the back of it and remove the spring. (The other end locates on a pip on the inside of the trigger). You can now tap out the trigger pivot screw and remove the trigger. The pivot screw is the front one of the 2 pins in the cylinder. On this gun, the trigger was difficult to remove because someone had bent the steel a little and burred the outside of the pin hole. I gripped as much of the trigger as I could in soft jaws of a vice and gently moved the cylinder to get it out. I then cleaned up the damage and tapped it back to shape with a small hammer and a bit of flat bar. You can now tap out the rear cylinder pin with the right sized punch. The mainspring is under a fair bit of tension so once the pin moved a bit I put the back of the cylinder onto a bit of wood and pressed down to take the tension as I pushed the pin out. Slowly release tension and the trigger housing,guide and mainspring should come out. The piston was a little stiff coming out and needed some gentle persuasion with levering and tapping. The piston washer is leather and held by a small screw. The buffer washer appeared to be fibre. I removed these to clean the rest of the bits up but did not fit new ones as they were in good condition.Clean all your bits up and go to part 2.

[ggggr]

Get ready to put it back together. The piston was solid but crude It looks like it was made of tube, with the end bit put in and spot welded and then ground off. The piston rod appears to be brazed in and there was some hard crud round it (old flux?).
Assuming everything is lubed and you have the piston washer back on the piston, replace the piston, mainspring and guide in the cylinder( I used the old mainspring, which was a bit tired). Get the trigger housing bit located and then push down on the cylinder and locate the pin. Get the trigger into the cylinder and line up the pin hole with a punch a "slave" and then push the pin through carefully to keep everything straight. Locate the trigger spring on the pip at the back of the trigger and compress the spring and use a small screwdriver to locate it on the tang on the trigger housing. You can now replace the trigger adjusting screw and endcap, (remembering to line up the screw with the hole in the cap).
Get your barrel, breech block and cocking arm and feed the cocking arm through the bracket on the cylinder and replace that pin. Replace barrel pivot screw and lock screw. Drop action in stock and replace the front and rear sock bolts. If the holes dont line up, you have probably not tapped the cylinder endcap on far enough.
I reckon this is a crude little gun. The piston is rough as I mentioned and the back of mine seemed a bit oval. The breech of the gun has 2 spot welds holding it to the cylinder which look ugly when you see them. The trigger is like all the other small guns mentioned but is adjustable. I think this was an early version as there was no scope rail and the trigger housing seemed to be in one piece.
not seen an Original 22 yet but this little Bsf is better made than the other guns I mentioned, including the Hw25 ( which I think is very overated). Even with the tired spring I left in it, it is fairly punchy and great fun.