On this gun the lock screw would not come out even when unscrewed. I eventually had to drill a part of the screw head to get something under it. Probably not a common problem and I think it was down to an off centre screw head. If you want to remove the barrel plunger and spring, use a pin punch to tap out the small pin in the breech block with a pin that holds them. Clean and grease and replace now. Put a bit of pressure on the cylinder end cap and tap out its pin with a punch. Slowly release the pressure as you remove the punch. The mainsprings should now come out, followed by the piston. The piston washer is a leather, secured by a rivet. Mine didnt need changing. You can try to grind the end of the rivet off or drill it if the washer and buffer need changing.(I have since done one and managed to punch the rivet out and re-use it) I have tapped a piston to about 8mm and used a countersunk screw on one gun and a 5mm screw secured by a piece of tapped roundbar inside the piston on another instead of sending off for a rivet. (I made up my own leatherwashers). Clean and lube everything and replace the piston. Slide cocking arm through the welded bracket on the underside of the cylinder and locate it in the cocking slot in the cylinder (remember you may have to use a bit of pressure to compress the spring steel bit to get it through the slot). Locate cocking lever in its slot in the breech block and replace its screw. Replace sear into front of trigger block and line it up and replace its pin. Replace the trigger and its spring and try to line it up with its pin. Its one of those things that will go in first time or may take ten minutes of swearing. You may have to push the sear up a bit to let the trigger get into the right place. Replace mainsprings (Bsa meteor mk1-mk5 mainsprings are a better option and a mk6 will give power but make the gun hard to cock). Replace cylinder end cap and locate the pin. Place barrel in jaws and replace the barrel pivot screw and its lock screw. Go to pt3
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