Results 1 to 15 of 200

Thread: Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    ggggr's Avatar
    ggggr is offline part time super hero and seeker of justice
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Flintshire Ch6 sort of near bagillt
    Posts
    2,348

    Bsa Meteor Mk1 and Mk2 stripdown/ differences to other Mks

    The Mk1 and Mk2 meteor are virtually the same gun apart from sights and the Mk1 having grooves in the stock. The Mk1 has a different trigger guard to the Mk2-Mk5,s. It has a stock screw that you get at by removing the trigger guard. The Mk1 and Mk2 have a different trigger set up to later Mks and that,s what I will try to explain later. The Mk1 and Mk2 have a different spring guide to the later models. It has a fishtailed washer on it so make sure it goes back in right or you will struggle to get the cylinder pin in or the trigger to work. They both have riveted cocking arm pivot pins and I would leave this alone unless you really need to get it out. You should be able to peen it back over when you refit it. Other than that, they have a steel piston head and a leather washer, which you can replace with the later alloy head and O ring set up if you want. Other than that, the guns strip the same as the later Mks that have been covered earlier in the guide. I will assume that you have now stripped the gun and got the action back together other than the trigger. Place the action in front of you with the trigger housing towards you and the barrel facing to the left.
    Place your sear in front of you, with the pivot hole to the left and the single lumpy bit that catches on the piston, to the top. Now get your trip plate the same way, with the little bent over tang to the top and the long straight side of the plate to the right and the smaller tang to the bottom.
    Lay the sear spring (the one like a safety pin, not the curly one) on top of the trip plate,with the short leg to the top. Insert the trip plate and sear spring into the hollow of the sear and then enter them into the trigger housing and locate with the sear pin (large one of the 3 pins).
    Now push the long leg of the sear spring upwards and then push the middle of the 3 trigger pins through so the leg of the spring is above it.
    Get your trigger and lay the trigger spring inside it with the short bit to the top and the long bit to the bottom. Enter this into the housing and locate it with the trigger pivot pin into the lowest of the two small holes in the housing. The pin actually passes through the centre of the spring. The top of the spring locates on the underside of the middle trigger pin.
    It sometimes helps if you wind off the trigger adjusting screw a couple of turns to make it easier to fit and then adjust it back after.
    If you get problems with a Mk1/2 cocking/not cocking/cocking and not firing etc, then it is probably the trip plate that is worn and needs replacing. However I checked one out for someone the other week and the sear spring had been bent and was barely catching on the centre trigger pin. I cured that by heating and straightening the spring and then dunking in oil but issued the warning that it would probably need replacing.
    The later trigger set ups will fit the gun but I do like this set up although the spares are dear. However, I reckon a new trip plate or sear should be good for about 30 years.
    I hope this makes some sense as it is very difficult without pics.
    Last edited by ggggr; 02-12-2023 at 04:12 PM.
    Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •