Results 1 to 15 of 200

Thread: Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    ggggr's Avatar
    ggggr is offline part time super hero and seeker of justice
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Flintshire Ch6 sort of near bagillt
    Posts
    2,348

    Idiots guide to Diana/Milbro mk1v/G4 strip (pt1)

    Remove the two trigger guard screws and the trigger guard. Remove the two screws that you can now see that hold the action to the frame. Watch out for the trigger spring as you lift the action out although it may remain in the frame. Undo cocking arm pivot lockscrew and remove pivot. Undo barrel pivot lockscrew and remove barrel pivot. Lift barrel and cocking arm away. If you need to change the breech washer do it now. Remove sear spring and then the trigger and sear pins and the trigger and sear. You may have a bit of trouble either getting the pins out or back in as they are sometimes popped with a centre punch to retain them. Push endcap against a piece of wood and squeeze together the tangs of the retaining circlip and then let off pressure so endcap comes away with circlip and probably mainspring. When you pull the piston back to remove it, the cocking arm should lift out once its far enough back in the cocking slot. Remove piston and change piston washer if needed. The last one I did was leather, held on by a small countersunk screw. Clean and lube everything and place piston in cylinder so you can get cocking arm in and then push all the way in. Go to part two.
    Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"

  2. #2
    ggggr's Avatar
    ggggr is offline part time super hero and seeker of justice
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Flintshire Ch6 sort of near bagillt
    Posts
    2,348

    Idiots guide to Diana/Milbro mkIV/ G4 strip (pt2)

    Place the mainspring on the guidetube/ endcap and place it into the cylinder. Compress the spring by pushing the endcap against a piece of wood and then squeeze the circlip until the endcap enter the cylinder enough so you can release the circlip and it loctes in its slot. Replace trigger and its pivot and then the sear and its pivot pin. You might have to fiddle about a bit to get this in right but dont use brute force. Replace barrel and cocking arm and the replace the pivot and lock screw. Replace the pivot and lockscrew on the cocking arm. If the sear spring has not remained in the frame, slip it into the frame and drop the action into the frame so the little pin on the sear enters the spring. Locate the trigger spring between the trigger and the hole in the frame at the back of the trigger. Replace two screws that hold action to frame and then the triggr guard and its two screws.
    I dont really like these pistols. The foresight will be an absolute swine to move as it will probaly have never been moved and you will have no chance tapping it with a bit of hard wood. If you are determined to try to move it, put some easing oil on it for a few days first. |Just about ok for shooting tins at 6 yards. You can often see a pellet swerve to one side.
    Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •