Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

[ggggr]

From her on its the same. The cadet and Major actually have the same trigger lever. Knock out the trigger pin and remove trigger, its spring and the little spring guide that looks like half a nail. You now need to unscrew the trigger block and may need a vice if the gun has not been apart for many years (or ever). On one I did I used the vice to hold the cylinder and placed a piece of thick flat bar in the trigger housing slot and levered it. (this was after plus gas and heat). This was why we removed the trigger--to allow this. Once undone,remove guide,mainspring and piston. Pison washer is leather held on by a special threaded nut. The piston rod used to be listed as a spare part but I dont know if it still is. Clean bits. See if trigger block will screw right home and slot line up with cocking slot. If not, Ive filed a touch off end of cylinder so you are not forcing thread on block. Lube and replace Piston, mainspring and guide and screw in trigger block. If you cant get proper mainspring then a meteor one cut to about 19.5 cm will do. Put guide pin in spring and locate and refit trigger and pin. On major refit sear and spring. Locate cylinder plunger and spring,refit barrel and then cocking arm. Replace action in stock and tighten stock screws. NEXT UP THE METEOR!



Just adding this that Ray (Abellringer) put up to help clarify things about the stock screws.



"Also posted in general airgun. This is in reply to a request to post an accurate thread size for the Front Stock Screws on both of these models. All of them are very similar and in fact will fit. It's worth noting there are two variations of screw; one has a reduced dia shank from the end of the thread to under the screw head; the other has the major dia all the way along to under the head. So starting with the correct one.

1] 7/32" BSF 55deg angle inc. 28tpi 0.219" O/D tapping drill 4.6mm

2] No 12 [7/32"] UNF 60deg angle inc. 28tpi 0.216" O/D tapping drill 4.7mm

3] 1BA 47.5deg angle inc. 28.25tpi 0.210" O/D tapping drill 4.5mm
Hope this helps in some way. "

[ggggr]

I think this applies to the Meteor mk3 version as well. The mk4 and mk5 versions mainly differ in that the mk4 has the single piece cocking arm and the longer slot in the stock and the mk5 has the articulated lever and the shorter slot. Sights differed a bit as well. Most pistons have the "keyhole" slot piston that the piston head slots into although some mk5,s Ive seen have the circlip set up like the scorpion. The front stock screws and the rear one are all 2BA thread. Later front screws are longerand will need cutting down or packing if used on an earlier gun. If you dont mind cheeseheaded screws, these can be bought for about 10p each from Chronos or the like. The earlier triggers had a wide metal trigger and sear. The later ones had narrower triggers and sears and the trigger became a slip on plastic thing you pinned onto the actual trigger piece. Ive seen sears with the large pivot hole round and others that are elongated. I think they all swap. Im noy sure if trigger pin sizes changed slightly at some point as I remember having to file some to fit the TE (mk3)version I had as a kid. The later versions have the trigger stop pin fitted so you only have to sort the other two. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

The pin for the cocking arm is different for the two versions and I fitted a roll pin when I was playing with one recently.
Remove sights and remove the 2 screws at the forend of stock and the trigger guard one. Carefully lift action from stock as trigger pins can fall out. Remove bottom pin and trigger should drop a bit. Remove top larger sear pivot pin and the trigger,trigger spring (bent wire thing) and the sear should come out together. On earlier version the trigger stop pin will also come out. REmove plastic end cap. Knock out cocking arm pin and remove cocking arm. (note piece of plastic In cocking arm on early version to stop pin moving). Break barrel and push in barrel plunger and knock out barrel pivot pin. Remove plunger and spring and then the barrel from the jaws. Place cylinder jaws down on piece of wood and using your bit of tube (SEE 1ST POST PG1) push down on guide and remove cylinder pin. Ease pressure and remove guide, spring and piston. The piston head may be loose if the piston buffer washer has rotted and crumbled (they all do). On the late version the retainig circlip may have broken and the piston will come out and leave the head behind! GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

I used a foot pump with a bit of wet rag to seal the adapter and put it in the transfer post and managed to blow the head back far enough to wangle it with a dowel. (same trick worked on scorpion). Piston washer is an "o" ring. I replaced a buffer washer with two bits of leather (not worth the hassle but I was curious) and have used a tap washer in the past.Clean and lube. Slide piston buffre and its washer onto piston head and insert into keyhole of piston and it should snap into place although you may have to file small chamfer on one side of washer. With circlip set up a piece of tube to push clip on would help but Ive done it wirh two small screwdrivers. Place piston, spring and guide in cylinder and push down with your piece of tube and refit pin. It is worthwhile changing breech washer as it is made of same stuuf as piston buffer. I make leather ones. Place brech in jaws and fit plunger and spring,depress and fit barrel pivot pin. Fit trigger stop pin (tape on left side of trigger housing stops them falling out) then offer trigger,spring and sear into housing. Locate sear and fit pin and then trigger should push up to enable trigger pin to be fitted. Replace plastic cap and refit in stock and fasten screws. ( if you adjust trigger at all, 1/2 turn of the little screw in plastic in the trigger can stop the sear from engaging).

[Garvin]

Some parts diagrams:

BSA Airsporter Mk6
BSA Mercury Mk3
BSA Airsporter S
BSA Meteor MK5
BSA Meteor Super Mk5
Diana G79-G80
Webley Hawk Mk3
Webley Osprey
Webley Vulcan
Webley Hurricane
Webley Tempest
Webley Typhoon

[red bob]

probably one of the most imformative posts in years ,did a little job for guy; make up a couple of end caps for his zenit pistol ,the sort of thing i enjoy doing for the pleasure of helping a mate get a classic back to life in return he sends me the best part of a pistol for myself after admiring his example plus he gives me all the drawings and instructions to make up my own!
what he knocks up in his flat in manchester puts my efforts in a fully equiped state of the art factory in the shade,tapped my paratrooper trigger block back square over a block with a bar on his kitchen floor!.but his advise on knocking out the old pins and replacing the sear etc revived the above to full working order.ironic thing was our contact started with me advising guy on the pitfalls of refurbing the para[lol very loudly]cheers guy keep it up .

[ggggr]

This was an early Mercury but probably applies to others apart from the "s" which has a different breech set up and maybe more. Later ones have the articulated cocking arm similar to mk5 Meteors. Im hoping someone will put up the Bsa sheets that came with the guns to aid the thread.
Remove sights. Remove two front stock screws and large bolt that goes through pistol grip into trigger block. Remove action from stock. Remove cocking arm pin and cocking arm. Break barrel and depress barrel plunger and remove barrel pivot pin. Remove barrel,plunger and plunger spring (as always, looking outfor flying plunger!). Now you have to unscrew the trigger block. The one I did came out easily but you have a choice of oil filter straps, carefully gripping cylinder in vice and sliding a bar through that big hole in the trigger block and hitting it with a mallet. Some people have used heat and pipe freezing sprays. As alloy would contract more when cold I suppose you could always put the cylinder in the freezer for a few hours (I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS YET!). Once the block is loose unscrew it and carefully remove. Then remove guide, mainspring and piston. GO TO NEXT POST.