Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

[ggggr]

This is for the Slavia 618 and 622 ? There are small differences which you will see if you look up my thread "Slavia 618 stripped" on 10 /5/ 2009 http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....ghlight=slavia . Cartertools gun was slightly different to mine.
http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....a-618-stripped

[ggggr]

This is for all the ones apart from the later trigger, which I havent seen yet. Firstly remove the little trigger adjusting screw and its spring that goes in the centre of the stock screw at the front of the trigger guard. Remove the two front stock screws. Remove the rear stock screw you have taken the adjuster out of. Lift action clear of stock.If you want to remove loading tap, you will need a screwdriver with a gap ground in the middle of its blade or gently punch the retaining nut on RHS of tap while holding tap to stop the tang breaking against the stop screw. This nut should unscrew and there is a spring behind it. When removed, the tap should come out.Undo cocking arm pivot screw and withdraw cocking arm (you sometimes have to push the leaf spring on it up against the bracket to do this). Undo cocking lever lock screw and cocking lever screw and remove lever. Remove trigger pins, trigger spring,trigger and sear. Push down on the endcap and the cylinder end pin should push out. Release pressure, remove cap and mainspring or springs should come out.( the original guns came with 2 concentric springs But these may well have been changed) GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

Its a common question about mainsprings for these. As they are a Bas---d to cock anyhow, I think an old style Meteor spring to be about the best option although they will take the later one if you wont listen to sense.Withdraw the piston. It should have a leather washer rivetted to the piston. If this needs changing, either buy the leather one and the rivet,or try one of these options. (I tapped one piston to 5/16 Bsf and used a countersunk screw--You could tap some round bar and drop it in the piston to do the same job-- Or see whether you can get a ptfe washer that will fit and do the same thing. Im sure some modern guns must have washers near the right size). Clean and lube. Replace your piston. Replace sear,trigger and trigger spring. Now refit your mainspring and endcap and pin. If your gun has been grinding when cocking,the little Piece of fibre/nylon on the cocking arm may be worn. You can pick this out with a small screwdriver, put some araldite underneath it and replace it a few mm proud (leave araldite over night to go off). Replace cocking arm and pivot screw. Replace cocking lever, pivot and lock screw. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

Replace loading tap,spring and nut and tighten (again using forked screwdriver or punch for last couple of turns). Replace action in stock and tighten front two screws. Replace rear screw ---VERY IMPORTANT! You need to pull the trigger while you are tightening this screw to make sure it goes all the way home. If you do not, it feels home but can come loose when you cock the gun and result in a split stock. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. Replace the trigger adjusting screw and its spring in the centre of that screw. If this screw is missing then the screws out of a light switch plate can be cut down and the head filed to do the job and a biro spring can be used. The adjuster screw doesnt really do much and the guns seem to work fine without them.

[ggggr]

This is a later Relum break barrel, Introduced in 1978? to relace the larger Relum break barrel. It seems to have simalar styling to a Webley Hawk mk3 although the rear of the stock is much shorter. It has a different trigger to the ealy Relum 322/tornado,s that I have seen but it is the same as the super Tornado I think. I think I put the trigger back together the wrong way (more later). I like the fact they have done away with that fine thread rear stock screw,which I consider a weak point on the Tornado as you have to pull the trigger when you are tightening it or the screw doesnt go all the way home. The gun is lighter than you think it should be but I reckon its a good rifle to give to someone who knows nothing about them. ie-- its hard to break or mistreat.
If you are removing the rearsight it is necessary to undo the lockscrew you can see through the hole in the top of the sight. Once removed, you can drift the pin out (watch for 2 springs). Remove front two stock screws and one in front of trigger guard and lift action from stock. Undo cocking arm pivot and remove cocking arm. Break barrel and remove barrel pivot lock screw and barrel pivot and remove barrel and its shims. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

Knock out small pin through breech block and remove barrel plunger and spring. You can clean, lube and replace these now and replace leather breech washer if required. I suggest you knock out,lube and replace the pin through the breech jaws that the plunger locks against. Remove trigger adjster screw and spring from behind trigger.Remove trigger pins and slide out sear and trigger spring. The actual trigger is a 2 piece trigger with a steel blade that springs onto it and held in place by two dimples. I wangled the lot out and in but if you can "spring" the dimples it would make reassembley easier. Put pressure on end cap and remove cylinder end pin. Release pressure and remove cap, mainspring/springs and slide out piston. It has ususal rivetted washer which you could change for material and fixing of your choice as mentioned in 522 strip above. Clean and lube. Replace piston,mainspring and endcap and cylinder end pin. I think the correct way to replace trigger is to slide sear in 1st then wangle the trigger blade and triggr spring and finally the actual trigger piece in from the front and locate it on the dimples. Refit barrel and shims,pivot screw and lock screw, cocking arm and pivot and then replace action in stock and tighten screws. Refit rearsight if removed and tighten that lockscrew on top once sight is in place.

[ggggr]

I got this a bit back but put off stripping it right down because I havent got a spring compressor yet and in the back of my mind was an old AGW article that suggested (on one of the Bsf,s) that a nut had been tightened by two fifteen stone Germans with a four foot spanner. I did the strip three times (so it must be easy) because the first spring I tried was coilbound even after cutting off a few coils.
Remove rearsight if you want. Its like the old Diana ones. Undo stock screw on underside of fore end and one in front of trigger guard and remove action from stock.If you look at the bracket that the cocking arms go through, you will see a pin. This needs removing and on mine was a right Ba*####*d----harder than the rest of the strip. Once removed,break barrel slightly and undo lockscew and pivot screw on RHS of breech block. You should now be able to remove barrel with cocking linkage attached. If you want to lube barel plunger and spring, they are held by a small screw on Rhs. Do it now and replace so you dont loose them.Unscrew cylinder end cap. Look at the scope ramp---the little screw at the back is just an arrestor for the scope and can be left in place. The big one at the front of the ramp needs removing or you cant get the trigger out. GO TO NEXT POST