UPDATE 23 06 2017--ANOTHER PISTOL ARRIVED WITH A DIFFERNET SEAR/PLUNGER AND NEEDS STRIPPING DIFFERNTLY TO THIS GUIDE. YOU NEED TO REMOVE ALL THE TRIGGER AND SEAR BEFORE YOU CAN REMOVE THE CYLINDER END PLUG.
This arrived today. I have been after looking at one for a while. It is an underlever pistol with a flip out loading tap. It is of heavy construction with basic sights.
Tap out the rear sight if you are worried about damaging it while you are working. There is only one screw holding the action to the frame. It is a large screw through the bottom of the grip. The smaller hole to the rear of the frame is a hole for adjusting the trigger, although this example was missing the screw (3 or 4 mm). After you undo the large screw and lift the action out of the frame, watch out for a trigger spring flying out. This is a coil sppring that sits in the frame like the Diana/Milbro G4, Slavia Zvp etc.
Looking from the front of the gun towards the cylinder, you will see a small screw on either side of the cylinder. Still looking from the front,the one on the left is the tap pivot screw and the one on the right contains a coil spring and a bb that loacte the tap when it is closed. Remove,clean and lube these bits and keep them somewhere safe.
Looking at the action from the rear, into the trigger housing,you will see the forks of the sear on either side of a tube. This tube is part of the trigger. You can tap the cylinder and this tube should drop out. You will see that it has a notch on it (like a sear) to hold the piston rod when the gun is cocked.
With that out, you can knock out the cylinder endcap retaining pin. There is not much pressure so it should not fly, but it always pays to keep a bit of pressure on endcaps when removing pins. With the cap removed, the mainsprings (yes 2, like the rifles) and the guide should come out. The guide was at the front of the springs and I put it back the same way. I don't know if it would work at the rear. It is very small because of the inner mainspring.
Now tap out the trigger pin at the front of the trigger housing and remove the trigger and its small hairpin spring. Try to see how it goes for when you put the thing back together. Knock out the rear pin in the housing and remove the sear from the back of the housing.( Not knowing what sort of screw the trigger adjuster should be,you may have to remove this screw first)
Undo the cocking arm pivot screw and you should now be able to use it to push the piston to the back of the cylinder. When it gets most of the way there, the cocking arm should drop out of the cylinder and you can then remove it from the front of the housing. Withdraw the piston from the cylinder. The piston washer is held by a threaded nut that has 2 holes for a peg spanner. As the nut was not tight, I used the nose of some long nosed pliers to undo it. There was a steel washer under the piston washer.
Clean and lube every thing up. Go to part 2
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