Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

[ggggr]

The back of the sear spring can be hooked over the top of the sear with a small screwdriver or two. Replace the action in the stock replace stock screws and replace sights.

[ggggr]

I was hoping someone would put up the Webley sheets but they aint yet. The Osprey is more or less a sidelever Hawk mk3 and the trigger info above applies. Remove sights and the 2 stock screws, one at fore end of stock and one in front of trigger guard. Remove action and watch out for lump of metal in stock that helps locate rifle. Unscrew loading tap lever screw and remove spring and push out tap. You can change the seal if you want. Unscew trigger adjuster on top of endcap and remove circlips from trigger pins. Remove trigger pin and trigger and its spring. Remove other two pins and slide out safety, sear and sear spring.Take circlip off the ratchet and remove pin,ratchet and spacer (noting how it goes). Unscrew the pawl spring screw and remove spring and pawl. Knock out cocking arm pin and remove cocking arm. Knock out sidelever pin and remove sidelever and spring (noting how it goes) .Undo the allen screw in the end cap that secures the cylinder end pin. Push down on cylinder end plug and remove the cylinder pin. Release pressure and the end plug should come out, followed by mainspring and piston. (I had a problem with the endcap being really tight and it was a case of pointing it into some rap and waiting for iy to move and then knocking it out with a piece of wood) in this case ease it before you replace it. GO TO NEXT POST.

[ggggr]

You can replace the piston rings with "O" rings as in Hawk mk 2 and 3 posts. Clean, lube and put back together. Put piston, spring and end cap back and replace cylinder end pin. Locate sidelever spring and sidelever and replace its pin and tighten the small grub screw up in the trigger block that pushes onto the pin (have a look at the block from the back where the sidelever goes). Replace cocking arm in its slot and line up with hole on sidelever and replace its pin. Replace the pawl and its spring and then the ratchet (and spacer) and pin and circlip. Replace loading tap, spring and lever and make sure the lever is pressed fully home before tightening its screw. Replace the trigger as in the Hawk mk 2 and 3 posts above (to save me time). Locate action in stock, checking you haven,t dropped that little metal locating dowel. Tighten both stock screws and replace sights.

[Gareth W-B]

This thread is really looking good. Think you are doing a fantastic job there ggggr, and I and many others really appreciate it. In fact, this is such a useful thread that I am going to make it a Collectors Corner sticky . Keep up the 'sterling' work (little collectors play on words there ). Atvb: G.

[ggggr]

I have never done an early junior--Only the mk2 I bought off here a few months back that my nephew now owns. Remove grips and rearsight. Unscrew barrel catch screw and remove(watching for plunger + spring). There are only two trigger pins which require a 3/32 pin punch. Remove the rear one and the trigger should come out. Remove second and sear and its spring should come out. Unscrew the barrel pivot screw. I used the barrel pivot to unscrew the cylinder end plug----------but only do this if it comes easily---otherwise use something else! Remove mainspring. Cocking arm should lift out of the slot. Withdraw piston (sometimes on Webley pistols these are tight on the ptfe washer and you may need to drift it with a bit of dowel or similar). The one I saw had a screw on ptfe washer. Chances are if the piston was tight coming out then the washer is okay and wont need changing. With everything out of the way,its easiest to change breech washer now, with rounded side facing barrel. I usually wipe with grease and use side of small screw driver and then push barrel onto wsher to seat firmly. Clean and lube. Replace piston and mainspring and screw on endcap. Locate cocking link in slot and line up barrel and replace pivot pin. Replace sear and spring and line up and replace pin. Replace trigger and screw. Replace barrel catch (dont forget plunger + spring) and pin and then rear sight and grips. ONE OF THE BEST TO START ON. CHEERS GARETH---THIS IS ALMOST IDENTICAL TO THE EARLY JUNIOR APART FROM THE BARREL CATCH AND A LEATHER PISTON WASHER.


Just a bit of additional info. When someone was asking about being able to reface a worn sear ------------"Ref Webley Jnr sears; as far as I'm aware, they're high carbon and cyanide hardened; not sure how deep that penetrates but once they wear they seem to ''profile'' to the piston really quicky. They can be ground easily but I'm not sure how much hardness would be retained and so how long they'd last or even be safe.
For a gun that's going to be used I'd agree a new sear is the way to go. "

Additional information. Regards to the piston washer screw on a Junior "Junior piston washer screw only shows one size, R/H; 0.205" X 30tpi whit form. "

[ggggr]

This is a late model Senior. Remove grips and rear sight. Remove barrel catch stop screw,barrel catch pivot and barrel catch. Watch out for barrel catch plunger and small spring. You can get to the piston washer on these, premiers and junior mk 2 without stripping the trigger (Hurricane,Typhoon and Tempest) but go for the full strip. Remove both trigger guard pins and trigger guard with a 3/32 pin punch. Remove trigger pin and trigger,sear and leaf spring should come out (note positions and that trigger hooks into sear). Remove barrel pivot lock screw and then pivot screw.Slide cocking lever out of slot and then unscrew endcap (I usually use the barrel as the cap is not usually tight--If it is then use something else. Withdraw mainspring and piston. Piston washer is a phosphor bronze ring that could be changed for "O" ring. Change breech washer if required, These were leather with a little brass bush but the usual Webley one fits, round end to the barrel.Clean and lube. Replace piston, spring and endcap. Locate cocking link in slot and replace barrel. replace pivot screw and lock screw. Put leaf spring up into trigger housing,put trigger into the sear and slide up into housing. Put guard on and then locate and replace all 3 pins. Replace barrel catch plunger spring and plunger and then barrel catch and screw. Replace grips and rearsight.



None cocking Webley Senior-----taken form what I posted on a thread recently.

"Ok. Here is what to do.
You have removed the mainspring? Put the guide back in and leave the barrel and linkage off the gun. Slide the piston back with a screwdriver or similar. Hopeully the piston should engage.
If it doesnt, then remove the guide and slide the piston a bit further back and see if it engages. If it now engages, check to see if you have the right piston in it. A Senior one should have a bronze ring as a seal. Mk 1's have a leather seal and Premiers and later guns usually have a Ptfe seal. All the pistons will go in but they will not work.
IF a new sear has been fitted at some point they sometimes need bit of the holding face grinding away to allow the piston to engage.

Assuming that the piston engages while you have the guide in, then try to push it forward a bit against the sear and the sear should hold.

If the sear does not hold the piston then either your sear is worn or the holding ring face on the piston-- Or both.

If with the guide in the piston does engage then that would suggest worn linkages/ cocking shoe, or the fulcrum on the cylinder being worn.

Usually bent pins are not the cause of a gun not cocking, but rather a symptom of people using excessive force to try to get the gun to cock.

More often that not, the problems start with a worn cocking shoe.

I will assume you have got the sear in the right way round. with the high side to the front of the gun and the lower more rounded side to the breech."

[ggggr]

This is an early premier. As the premier has 5 pins in the trigger (including the guard) they can be more battered than other Webley pistols. It may be worthwhile filing any spread pins when you have the pistol apart. It is also worthwhile filing any burrs on inside of trigger housing and maybe stoning the sides of trigger and sear. I did this and used Gn paste on the sides.
Remove grips and rearsight (its up to you). Undo barrel catch screw and remove catch, plunger and spring. You can undo trigger adjuster lock screw and adjuster to make it easier to clean up housing. Remove front amd rear pins from trigger guard with 3/32 punch. Remove the trigger stop pin, then the trigger pin and withdraw trigger and its spring. Remove sear pin and withdraw sear and its spring. Undo barrel pivot lock screw and barrel pivot and lift barrel up and slide cocking arm out of its slot. Undo endcap (keeping pressure on ) and remove along with mainspring and piston. Do breech washer now if you want to (rounded side to barrel). Piston washer is ptfe screwed on. Clean and lube. Replace piston, mainspring and endcap. Locate cocking lever in slot and line up barrel with its pivot hole. GO TO NEXT POST