Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

[ggggr]

I've been meaning to do this for a while except I had a problem (more later).
The pistol is one of those designs that the trigger mechanism is really better off being left alone other than a bit of a scrub with some cleaner (meths/isopropyl alcohol) and then some lube. This is partly because it would be very fiddly and partly because you cannot get spares.
Firstly I removed the rearsight by undoing the 2 cap head screws on the side of the sight and lifting it off the grooves.
Mine did not have a silencer on it and I did not have the special tools that I think the gun came with. I used a flat headed screw driver to undo the barrel and it came out ok.
I then pushed the button on the RHS that you use when cocking the gun. This lets the cylinder spring up a little from the trigger and grips. If you undo the forked nut on the grip/cylinder pivot, the pivot screw will come out and you can then slide the grip back a little and lift the cocking arm out of the cylinder. Put the trigger and grips to one side. The sear is in a little housing welded to the cylinder and is a simple thing with 1 pin and a coil spring. Remove the pin and the sear and spring slide forwards and out.
You should now have the cylinder, end caps and shutter mechanism left. There is a plain circlip holding the end cap/loading shutter--it was a bugger to get out. I managed by grinding a small screwdriver so I could get at it. TIP when I got it out, I ground either end of the circlip so it had a "lead in" to make it easier if it needs doing again. The endcap/loading shutter then came off and the little shutter/transfer port thing lifted off the end of the cylinder. There is a flat section circlip in the endcap,which opens and closes the shutter when the endcap is twisted.
I then wanted to remove the inner endcap from the cylinder to get at the piston. IT WOULD NOT SHIFT I tried Plus gas, tried to make up a tool like the proper peg spanner etc but it would not shift. I sent it to Mick T20 who managed to get if off without damaging it. nut sure whether he made up a peg spanner or a soft bush to grip it.
Anyhow, with this off, the piston, mainspring and guide came out. Clean and lube everything and go to part 2

[ggggr]

On the piston, there are 2 grooves of different depths at the front. Mine only had 1 O ring in the front but I decided to try to fit another thinner section one in the 2nd groove. not sure if it should have one or not. EDIT--- been told that some had a felt ring as an oil retainer.
I screwed the barrel back into the cylinder and then slid the guide and mainspring over it. The piston then went in. It sticks out of the cylinder a little but when you put the inner endcap on, it screws in easily enough. I put a tiny bit of THREAD LOCK on the cap and nipped it up with my crude and weak home made peg spanner (a bit of flat bar with two holes in it and 2 steel pegs). I then slid the plain circip onto the inner endcap so as to not have to stretch or force it over the outer cap later. I located the shutter onto its hole in the cap (middle one of the 3)and moved it so it was in the open position (ie you could see the end of the barrel). If you have not had the flat circlip out of the outer endcap, I assume it would go back in the right place. If it does not close the shutter when you screw the outer endcap up, try again with the clip moved round a little. With the outer endcap in position, you should be able to feed in the plain circlip to locate it.
You can now refit the sear,coil spring and the sear pin. I used a punch to line up the holes.
Get your trigger mechanism/grips and slide the cocking arm into the slot in the cylinder. Replace the pivot pin and nut. Push down on the cylinder and it should click into place on the grips. Replace your rearsight.

I've managed a quick plink with this between showers. It seems pretty accurate and not bad power wise. The trigger is a little heavy, but no worse than some other pistols. It seems a quite well made pistol.