Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

[fenman67]

Wish i had your Knowladge may be if i keeep reading it will come Many Many THANKS for all your info

[ggggr]

Just an update. I recently did a Tracker and it strips the same as an Osprey (check earlier in the guide). The only differences I could see ( in the strip) is that the Tracker had a piston weight in it and had a seal on the front of the piston head instead of the 2 ptfe rings of the Osprey. On the gun I did the safety catch was missing and the sear spring. I replaced the sear spring with one from a Webley Victor, which hooks under the trigger pin. You could use this mod if you want to leave off the safety catch on a Hawk mk2, Hawk mk3, Vulcan and Osprey. As I dont like safety catches anyway, especially automatic ones, this seems a good idea. I think the added bonus will be that the sear spring will last longer as the catch is not "sawing" the spring like normal, where it hooks over the catch. It also makes the trigger a lot easier to assemble and you can leave out the front of the three pins and keep it as spare.

[ggggr]

Remove the two trigger guard screws and the trigger guard. Remove the two screws that you can now see that hold the action to the frame. Watch out for the trigger spring as you lift the action out although it may remain in the frame. Undo cocking arm pivot lockscrew and remove pivot. Undo barrel pivot lockscrew and remove barrel pivot. Lift barrel and cocking arm away. If you need to change the breech washer do it now. Remove sear spring and then the trigger and sear pins and the trigger and sear. You may have a bit of trouble either getting the pins out or back in as they are sometimes popped with a centre punch to retain them. Push endcap against a piece of wood and squeeze together the tangs of the retaining circlip and then let off pressure so endcap comes away with circlip and probably mainspring. When you pull the piston back to remove it, the cocking arm should lift out once its far enough back in the cocking slot. Remove piston and change piston washer if needed. The last one I did was leather, held on by a small countersunk screw. Clean and lube everything and place piston in cylinder so you can get cocking arm in and then push all the way in. Go to part two.

[ggggr]

Place the mainspring on the guidetube/ endcap and place it into the cylinder. Compress the spring by pushing the endcap against a piece of wood and then squeeze the circlip until the endcap enter the cylinder enough so you can release the circlip and it loctes in its slot. Replace trigger and its pivot and then the sear and its pivot pin. You might have to fiddle about a bit to get this in right but dont use brute force. Replace barrel and cocking arm and the replace the pivot and lock screw. Replace the pivot and lockscrew on the cocking arm. If the sear spring has not remained in the frame, slip it into the frame and drop the action into the frame so the little pin on the sear enters the spring. Locate the trigger spring between the trigger and the hole in the frame at the back of the trigger. Replace two screws that hold action to frame and then the triggr guard and its two screws.
I dont really like these pistols. The foresight will be an absolute swine to move as it will probaly have never been moved and you will have no chance tapping it with a bit of hard wood. If you are determined to try to move it, put some easing oil on it for a few days first. |Just about ok for shooting tins at 6 yards. You can often see a pellet swerve to one side.