Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

[ggggr]

This strip also applies to the vulan except it has a different piston head set up, "a ptfe set up and a rubber buffer" according to Phil Bulmer, which may be changed for a stingray set up on some vulcans,again according to Phil Bulmer.
Read previous post about problems with fitting big mainsprings and the gun not cocking. A quick strip guide can be found on thread "Webley hawk disassembley" 7/o7/08, post 3.
Remove sights. Remove front two stock screws and one in front of trigger guard. Remove action from stock. Remove cocking arm pivot roll pin and then remove cocking arm. Break barrel and depress barrel plunger and remove pivot pin. Release pressure and remove plunger and spring. Remove breech block and barrel. IF YOU ARE GOING TO CHANGE BREECH SEAL WASHER ON CYLINDER IT IS ALWAYS EASIER TO DO IT WITH BARREL OFF---ALSO APPLIES TO PISTOLS. BREECH SEAL SHOULD HAVE ROUNDED SIDE FACING OUT. Undo trigger adjusting allen screw on top of cylinder end block to take pressure off trigger spring. GO TO NEXT POST

[ggggr]

Damn--lost a post. Anyhow,remove trigger pin circlips and remove the trigger pin and remove trigger and its spring. Remove other two trigger pins and pull out safety catch, sear and sear spring. Place cylinder, end cap down, on a block of wood, with the flat of the cap on the wood and the pointy bit overhanging. Push down and remove pin and release pressure. End cap, spring and piston can be withdrawn. The ptfe piston rings can be replaced with "o" rings but I dont know the size. I replaced 1 ring on a rough gun I had to get it going. clean and lube gun and put back together. Put piston, spring and endcap in cylinder (as with removal) and push on cylinder and replace pin. The breech block can be placed in jaws and located with pivot pin. Depress plunger and spring and push pin home. Replace cocking arm and pivot roll pin. Place sear spring onto sear and sear onto safety catch and put into trigger housing and line up with pins. Push the front two pins through and replace circlips. push trigger spring into end cap and push trigger up until it lines up and push that pin through and secure with circlip. Tighten the adjuster screw on the end cap. Go to next post.

[ggggr]

The back of the sear spring can be hooked over the top of the sear with a small screwdriver or two. Replace the action in the stock replace stock screws and replace sights.

[ggggr]

I was hoping someone would put up the Webley sheets but they aint yet. The Osprey is more or less a sidelever Hawk mk3 and the trigger info above applies. Remove sights and the 2 stock screws, one at fore end of stock and one in front of trigger guard. Remove action and watch out for lump of metal in stock that helps locate rifle. Unscrew loading tap lever screw and remove spring and push out tap. You can change the seal if you want. Unscew trigger adjuster on top of endcap and remove circlips from trigger pins. Remove trigger pin and trigger and its spring. Remove other two pins and slide out safety, sear and sear spring.Take circlip off the ratchet and remove pin,ratchet and spacer (noting how it goes). Unscrew the pawl spring screw and remove spring and pawl. Knock out cocking arm pin and remove cocking arm. Knock out sidelever pin and remove sidelever and spring (noting how it goes) .Undo the allen screw in the end cap that secures the cylinder end pin. Push down on cylinder end plug and remove the cylinder pin. Release pressure and the end plug should come out, followed by mainspring and piston. (I had a problem with the endcap being really tight and it was a case of pointing it into some rap and waiting for iy to move and then knocking it out with a piece of wood) in this case ease it before you replace it. GO TO NEXT POST.

[ggggr]

You can replace the piston rings with "O" rings as in Hawk mk 2 and 3 posts. Clean, lube and put back together. Put piston, spring and end cap back and replace cylinder end pin. Locate sidelever spring and sidelever and replace its pin and tighten the small grub screw up in the trigger block that pushes onto the pin (have a look at the block from the back where the sidelever goes). Replace cocking arm in its slot and line up with hole on sidelever and replace its pin. Replace the pawl and its spring and then the ratchet (and spacer) and pin and circlip. Replace loading tap, spring and lever and make sure the lever is pressed fully home before tightening its screw. Replace the trigger as in the Hawk mk 2 and 3 posts above (to save me time). Locate action in stock, checking you haven,t dropped that little metal locating dowel. Tighten both stock screws and replace sights.

[Gareth W-B]

This thread is really looking good. Think you are doing a fantastic job there ggggr, and I and many others really appreciate it. In fact, this is such a useful thread that I am going to make it a Collectors Corner sticky . Keep up the 'sterling' work (little collectors play on words there ). Atvb: G.

[ggggr]

I have never done an early junior--Only the mk2 I bought off here a few months back that my nephew now owns. Remove grips and rearsight. Unscrew barrel catch screw and remove(watching for plunger + spring). There are only two trigger pins which require a 3/32 pin punch. Remove the rear one and the trigger should come out. Remove second and sear and its spring should come out. Unscrew the barrel pivot screw. I used the barrel pivot to unscrew the cylinder end plug----------but only do this if it comes easily---otherwise use something else! Remove mainspring. Cocking arm should lift out of the slot. Withdraw piston (sometimes on Webley pistols these are tight on the ptfe washer and you may need to drift it with a bit of dowel or similar). The one I saw had a screw on ptfe washer. Chances are if the piston was tight coming out then the washer is okay and wont need changing. With everything out of the way,its easiest to change breech washer now, with rounded side facing barrel. I usually wipe with grease and use side of small screw driver and then push barrel onto wsher to seat firmly. Clean and lube. Replace piston and mainspring and screw on endcap. Locate cocking link in slot and line up barrel and replace pivot pin. Replace sear and spring and line up and replace pin. Replace trigger and screw. Replace barrel catch (dont forget plunger + spring) and pin and then rear sight and grips. ONE OF THE BEST TO START ON. CHEERS GARETH---THIS IS ALMOST IDENTICAL TO THE EARLY JUNIOR APART FROM THE BARREL CATCH AND A LEATHER PISTON WASHER.


Just a bit of additional info. When someone was asking about being able to reface a worn sear ------------"Ref Webley Jnr sears; as far as I'm aware, they're high carbon and cyanide hardened; not sure how deep that penetrates but once they wear they seem to ''profile'' to the piston really quicky. They can be ground easily but I'm not sure how much hardness would be retained and so how long they'd last or even be safe.
For a gun that's going to be used I'd agree a new sear is the way to go. "

Additional information. Regards to the piston washer screw on a Junior "Junior piston washer screw only shows one size, R/H; 0.205" X 30tpi whit form. "