Here is a stripdown of the little Tell 2 pistol. I have never seen one of these in real life or even seen a parts diagram. I hope Trevor does not mind me using this link so you can read about the pistol and see the endcap and barrel off.
http://www.cinedux.com/airgun-articles-t.php
Here are some pics to help https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery....el-2/#post-389
(1) is the buffer that goes into the end of the cylinder
(2) is the piston
(3) is the barrel. The spring should go over the barrel but I could not fit it in the shot.
(4) is the trigger spring
(5) is the trigger
(6) is the cocking link with it's pin above
The gun I bought had not cocked in over 35 years, the trigger would not hold the piston against much resistance if it was cocked by pushing the piston with a rod, without the mainspring in and I think the washers were in wrong. I've done the gun as best I can looking at it and how I think it should go.
The cylinder has a slot right to the end of the cylinder, which should enable you to slide the cocking link out and in for stripping and reassembly ---but on mine the gap had closed up so I have stripped the gun in the way described.
Give the endcap a slight anti clockwise turn and the cap should come off with the barrel. You may need to start to cock the gun so spring pressure pushes it off. Pull the cocking strap ( the lever at the back of the gun)down and you can see the locking mechanism from the back of the gun. Undo the nut on the grips and remove the grips and screw from the frame. The screw goes through the locking mechanism so the locking mechanism/locking bar will either fall out of the back of the pistol or may need easing out.http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Gar...1276d.jpg.html There is a small spacer wrapped round the locking bar so watch that does not come off. You can now tap the trigger pivot pin out and remove the trigger and it's small coil spring. Tap out the pin that locates the cocking arm in the frame and then slide the small cocking link backwards until you can lift the arm clear of the pistol. The small cocking link pin will tap out if you want to clean and lube that as well. You should now be able to slide the piston out of the cylinder. My gun had a leather washer in the end cap, but I think it should be fitted inside of the piston to help seal round the barrel as I cannot see it doing and good in the end cap. With the piston out, there was another washer in the end of the cylinder. I'm guessing it is some kind of buffer. You should be able to push this out from the hole at the back of the gun. clean and lube the bits up
The piston on mine had 2 thin leather discs on a spiggot, with a plain steel washer on top of them and the spiggot peened over. I gently filed where it was peened and wound the washer off and then the 2 leather ones. I made 2 leather discs, refitted the plain washer and gently peened over the spiggot. The washer at the end of the cylinder seemed ok and was reused. I'm guessing you could use a thinner buffer washer to get a little more power but it would put more stress on the cocking arm. (I have actually tried this now. If you do it, be careful the piston does not hit on the little cocking link)The cocking arm on mine was more bent than it should be so was heated up and opened up a fraction. The trigger groove in the piston was not very good so this was cleaned up with a file. The trigger was also filed a little where it holds the piston to give positive engagement. Go to part 2
Reply With Quote