Put your steel washer,piston washer and nut back on the piston and nip up the nut. You could use some thread lock or gently peen the nut to stop it coming undone.
I would now replace the loading plate and the locating bb, with the bits you have been keeping safe. The plate has a pip on it for the ball to locate on so you should be able to work out which way is goes. Slide the piston part way into the cylinder and then slide the cocking arm into the front of the trigger housing and slide it towards the rear of the cylinder (helps if the action is upside down) until it locates into the cylinder and piston slot and then slide it forwards, which will pull the piston fully forwards into the cylinder. Locate the cocking arm pivot screw.
Now slide the sear into the trigger housing from the rear, with the rounded side to the front and the fork to the rear. You should be able to work out which way up it goes by looking at he trigger before you put it in. Replace the pin.
Now get your trigger and trigger spring (sits in the middle of the top of the trigger). The straight leg sits n top of the trigger and the hooked bit sits against the cocking arm. Locate it and replace the pin.
Now place the guide and mainsprings into the piston and locate the end cap. With the cap in place, you should be able to push the tubular trigger piece through the hole under the rear of the trigger housing into the cap. With this located, you can replace the endcap pin.
If you have a screw for the trigger adjuster, you can fit that now.
Put the little coil spring into the tubular trigger piece and then locate and gently lower it into the frame.
Locate and replace frame screw.
Replace sight if you took it off.
I need to look at this and get a few more shots out of it. The trouble with something like this is you cannot get parts if something goes wrong.
The 2 mainsprings are quite lightweight and might be better with one spring, but I'm leaving it as standard for now. The trigger is heavy and cleaning up the face of the tubular bit that holds the piston did not help much. None of the faces looked bad. I am always wary of adjusting the triggers to reduce engagement as it can cause problems.
It plinked! It was shooting high, despite an attempt to heat up and bend the rearsight down a bit. The trigger is heavy, even with the adjustment. IT was not very accurate, but some of that might be due to the strip down and settling. The smoking was stopping and the grouping was getting better.
It is a strange pistol. The loading plate seals very well but the gun feels quite harsh to shoot. Maybe it is a bit top heavy. Like I said, maybe one spring and a guide at the rear might help. The trigger is quite simple but overly complicated for what it is. I feel that the Slavia ZVP/Diana Modell 5 set up might have been a cheaper/better option.
OK---It has a heavier trigger and is not as accurate as the Gamo Falcon that copied aspects of it, But I bet it will last a lot longer
A little update. I tried leaving the inner mainspring out and it reduced power too much.
I noticed that the foresight was moving so took out the blade and tapped the top of the dovetails.
I will adjust the sight some more shortly.
What I have noticed, is that even shooting two handed, you have to really GRIP the pistol otherwise it tends to go all over the place. I think it is a combination of a heavy trigger and a top/front heavy gun. With a good solid grip, it was starting to group ok.
With the trigger being poor, I would forget about normal trigger technique. It is a bit like an RO 72 in that respect, with the best results achieved by "Yanking" on the trigger firmly, rather than trying to get up the slack and judge when it will go off! If you do try a normal technique on it, you will probably find you will pull get the veins in your arm popping and you will pull the shot anyway.
I've tried shooting with the wire stock on. It does not give a great sight picture and you do feel very cramped. It is actually pretty accurate like this.
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