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Thread: Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

  1. #91
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    Idiots guide to Diana/Milbro mkIV/ G4 strip (pt2)

    Place the mainspring on the guidetube/ endcap and place it into the cylinder. Compress the spring by pushing the endcap against a piece of wood and then squeeze the circlip until the endcap enter the cylinder enough so you can release the circlip and it loctes in its slot. Replace trigger and its pivot and then the sear and its pivot pin. You might have to fiddle about a bit to get this in right but dont use brute force. Replace barrel and cocking arm and the replace the pivot and lock screw. Replace the pivot and lockscrew on the cocking arm. If the sear spring has not remained in the frame, slip it into the frame and drop the action into the frame so the little pin on the sear enters the spring. Locate the trigger spring between the trigger and the hole in the frame at the back of the trigger. Replace two screws that hold action to frame and then the triggr guard and its two screws.
    I dont really like these pistols. The foresight will be an absolute swine to move as it will probaly have never been moved and you will have no chance tapping it with a bit of hard wood. If you are determined to try to move it, put some easing oil on it for a few days first. |Just about ok for shooting tins at 6 yards. You can often see a pellet swerve to one side.
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    Update on the Original/Diana Mod 50 or any 3 ball trigger rifle

    I recently needed to strip and reassemble another Original Model 50. Getting the 3 ball trigger unit back in place is an art in itself but I did find what I thought was an easier way.
    I give here both methods: (numbers refer to earlier thread stages)
    8. Re-assembly:
    Method 1: Rifle in spring compressor. Fit mainspring and guide. Put the inner sleeve into the outer sleeve ... the inner sleeve needs the ‘join’ pointing towards the trigger slot and the outer sleeve has obvious cut outs for the trigger unit to fit. The outer sleeve fits with the open slot towards the end cap. Using the socket, compress the mainspring / sleeves until a small diameter nail passing through the rear spring retaining pin hole can be used to hold the tension. At this point refit the small spring and keeper to the top of the cylinder (under the scope rail). Carefully lever the inner sleeve down to gain space to fit the spring and push the keeper/spring
    into location with a screwdriver.

    Method 2: Fit mainspring and guide. Put the inner sleeve into the outer sleeve ... the inner sleeve needs the ‘join’ pointing towards the trigger slot and the outer sleeve has obvious cut outs for the trigger unit to fit. Assemble inner and outer sleeves with the small spring and keeper in place; the spring buts up against a flange in the outer sleeve while the ‘spring and keeper end’ slots into a slot in the inner sleeve with the keeper held in the end of the slot. The outer sleeve fits with the open slot towards the end cap.The spring is under some tension at this point. Hold unit together and fit over mainspring and spring guide. It is better to have the action with the scope rail upwards at this point. Compress the mainspring using the socket as above. The outer and inner sleeves will move inwards. Keep the small spring and keeper in place. When sufficiently into the cylinder, the small spring and keeper become captive.

    9. Refit the proper pins to hold mainspring.

    10. Refit trigger unit
    Method 1: first fitting the pin. Then push the outer sleeve back to allow the trigger to fall forward before refitting the trigger spring. This can be most easily be done by using a small flat blade to push the outer sleeve rearwards until you can see the end of the outer sleeve down towards the mainspring slot. It is possible to insert a small flat screwdriver blade into the small gap to retain the outer sleeve against spring tension and so allow the trigger to fall into place, cocked. The trigger spring is best fitted by fitting the end over the ‘cylinder pip’ then compressing it with a large flat blade screwdriver until the end of the spring is flush with the trigger unit flange. Take care not to let the spring ‘ping’ away.Now slide the spring into place in the trigger unit.

    Method 2: Hold spring in place on trigger unit and hold in location on the action. Push down on trigger/spring to compress spring and bring the holes in the trigger housing into line with those in the action. Insert a small drift through the holes to hold it in place. Then tap the pin through. It may be necessary to wiggle the housing to get the holes on the second side to line up ... but I found this method is less hassle and more ‘blood free’ than trying to compress the spring as in method 1.

    11. Refit the anti-beartrap bracket (if fitted). Replace the end cap.

    12. Put action back in stock and refit the underlever pivot bolt.

    13. Refit the retaining ring on the underlever catch bolt.

    Cheers, Phil

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    Asi statical

    ASI STATICAL STRIP

    A cosmetically fair .22 Statical was in dire need of internal attention: pushing out between 70 and 100fps with Superdomes. The breech seal was clearly a bit tired but I had a surprise when I removed it: it was about 1cm deep. I simply shimmed the inside to raise the outer lip just above the breech. Power rose immediately to around 200fps. But the cocking stroke was too easy ...
    To strip:
    1. Remove forend woodwork, 2 bolts. Remove trigger guard, 1 bolt.
    2. Remove action from the butt and crackle finish outer housing: 4 small cheesehead bolts on the underside.
    3. It is now best to remove the rear sight, noting how it all fits together.
    4. Note 2 sliding bridges on the action: one near the trigger the other near the breech. On our model the sliding bridge near the breech had a small spring on each of the 'slide rods' but I have heard recently of a model (possibly a later version) that did not have these but had O rings.There is no need to touch the breech one unless you really want to strip that unit as well.
    5. Remove the saddle bridge near the trigger housing by removing 2 circlips on each of the 4mm sliding rods. Push rods out of the way and remove the saddle, sliding it off the anti-bear trap bar that extends from the cocking lever. On the 'other model' mentioned above it appears there was an extra small spring here to drive the recoil mechanism.
    6. Remove 2 pins holding trigger housing in place. Look inside the housing and note that the pins have a knurled end. Drive pins out knurled end first. Trigger housing can now be pulled away but it may be tight.
    7. The mainspring is next. I advise using a spring compressor. With a suitable tool (a bit of dowel?) inserted in the end of the cylinder, take up the strain on the end block and undo the 6mm hex bolt holding the saddle slide arm bracket to the action. Remove.
    8. Slowly release tension on spring as it pushes the end block out. Remove end block and spring. There is a free floating spring guide.
    9. The piston can be removed by simply lifting the cocking arm out of its slot: no need to discontent anything from the action.
    10. The piston washer is a standard leather one. This one was fair ... a not tight fit in the cylinder with the piston falling slowly under its own weight but almost stopping when I put a thumb over the muzzle. A new washer could easily be made.

    The spring fitted to the test rifle was 31 coils of 3mm wire (93mm total space) and was very weak: it was almost possible to compress it by hand.
    I replaced it with 29 coils of a Webley Tracker spring, 3.2mm (92.8mm space). I tried a few modifications such as a fixed spring guide but found the 93mm measurement critical. Exceed it and the rifle does not cock. In the end I stayed with the floating spring guide and a 29 coil spring.

    Reassembly is a reverse of the above. Fit piston and spring with spring guide inserted. Then fit the end block. Use the pusher tool to push the end block into the action and compress the spring until the 6mm hex bolt hole lines up with the hole in the action. Refit saddle and 6mm bolt.
    Remove tool and refit trigger unit, making sure the pins are fitted the way they came out with the knurled part last to be tapped home.
    Refit the cocking arm into the piston slot.
    Refit sliding bridge, making sure the anti-bear trap arm fits inside the bridge. Slide the pins into place and secure with the 4 circlips. Check that the bridge slides freely.
    Refit action to stock. This can be a little fiddly. Look at the underside of the action and note some raised pimples on each sliding bridge. These locate in small holes in the crackle finish housing. I found it easiest to locate the pimples at the breech end first; the rifle has to be at just the right angle and spacing in order for the action to slot into place. Persevere and it will suddenly click. Replace the 4 small bolts to secure the action. Replace trigger guard and forend woodwork. Replace rear sight.
    Once completed and relubed, the test rifle was running at around 450fps with .22 Superdomes for approx 6.5ftlbs. The F in Pentagon mark indicates 7.5 Joules (5.5 ftlbs) for countries that have this lower restriction so I do not think this is too bad.
    Cheers, Phil
    Last edited by Phil Russell; 11-03-2011 at 03:31 PM. Reason: extra information

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    Asi gamo apache

    Results of a morning's entertainment:

    ASI GAMO APACHE

    A spring compressor is virtually a must for this rifle due to the fact that refitting the trigger unit is a bit fiddly and best done with two hands free and the action secured.

    To strip, remove the forend stock screws (2) and the large bolt at the rear of the trigger guard. Action now separates from the stock, leaving the trigger guard on the stock (no need to remove unless you want to).
    Remove the plastic end cap, noting the nut inside into which the trigger guard bolt fastens. Remove rear sight.

    Look into the end of the action and note that the trigger unit holds back the spring guide and spring. Memorise how the trigger unit looks when assembled into the action. It will come out as a complete unit so will not fall apart. To remove the spring you need a forked tube able to go either side of the trigger block. With action trigger uppermost in a compressor, place the prongs of the forked tube either side of the trigger block and take the spring strain for about 5mm until you can see the lugs on the trigger unit clear the cylinder body. It is now possible to pull the trigger unit up and out of the action. It can be stiff so a bit of twiddling may be needed.
    Release tension on the forked tube and the spring assembly comes out.

    To access the piston assembly the cocking arm needs removing. You could tap out the pivot pin at the breech end or separate the breech/barrel from the cylinder. If doing the latter, undo and remove the bolt and separate the breech from the breech jaws. They have a bearing surface in the jaws so can be tight to remove.

    The piston washer is leather, secured by a screw bolt.

    The trigger unit can be easily cleaned and does not need taking apart. The breech seal is easily removed and is about 1cm deep. If the upper face is worn, carefully remove the seal with a needle and try a card shim under the seal.

    Re-assembly is straightforward: fit piston into the action and refit the barrel/cocking arm. This can be a bit of a fiddle as the breech side bearings can be a tight fit. Take care as this is a potential blood letting exercise if the parts slip when you are trying to push the breech into the jaws; there are some sharp edges.
    Place action in compressor, trigger slot uppermost, and refit spring and spring guide. Take the forked tube and compress the spring until the spring guide is clear of the trigger slot. Make sure the arms of the forked tube do not obstruct the trigger slot.
    Refit the trigger unit, making sure the trigger spring locates inside the cylinder. It helps to keep the trigger ‘pulled back’ while doing this. It can be fiddly. Make sure trigger unit is fully home into the cylinder and that the lugs locate into the cylinder body. Release tension on the forked tube / spring and watch carefully as the spring tensions against the trigger housing. The trigger housing should be fully into the action at this point. When done, examine the end of the action: one leg of the trigger spring should be resting on the inner surface of the action and the trigger housing end should be at 90 degrees to the cylinder. Make sure the other end of the trigger spring fits inside the rear of the trigger and that the trigger works. Make sure safety catch can rock.

    Replace end cap. Fit action into stock. It will most likely be necessary to pull the safety catch towards the trigger unit when doing this in order to get the catch through the trigger guard. Refit stock securing bolts and rear sight. Oil all pivot joints.

    Cheers, Phil

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    Idiots guide to Original 5 strip (pt1)

    This is a very basic strip to change mainspring and piston washer/ clean and lube but without removing the trigger adjuster set up. Remove sights from gun. Remove small lockscrew from cylinder end cap. You may want to try to loosen the end cap a few turns now before removing action from grip.(I used padded water pump pliers but a vice would be better). Undo and remove the screws at the front and rear of the trigger guard---there is no need to undo the one that holds the cap on the base of the grip. Lift action out of grips. Hook the coil spring off the sear and the sear should slide out backwards as it is hooked on a pin rather than a pin passing through a complete hole in the sear. Look at the trigger and trigger spring before you tap the trigger pivot pin out (the idea is to leave the spring on the trigger when it comes out and to push the long leg of the spring down and slide it forwards into the housing when you reassemble the gun). Remove pivot pin and slide trigger and spring out. Knock out the cocking lever pivot pin and then undo the barrel pivot lock screw and barrel pivot and remove. Barrel and breech and short cocking link should now slide out of the jaws. Watch out for the shims on either side. You can.t do much with the barrel lock up without special tools so its just a clean and lube. Long cocking link should slide out of front of trigger housing. Go to pt2
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    Idiots guide to Original 5 strip (pt2)

    You should now carefully unscrew the cylinder end cap making sure it doesn,t fly. With cap undone, the sleeve,guide and mainspring should come out. You may need something to ease the piston out. The piston seal on mine was a parachute seal which looked ok. If it needs replacing you will probably need to dip the new one in hot water for a few seconds before fitting. Clean and lube the gun. Refit the piston,mainspring, guide and sleeve (mine had a small hole for the end cap locating screw to go so make sure if it has one that it,s in the right place) and then screw on the end cap. This may be a bit difficult so make sure you dont cross thread it. Tighten cap and replace it,s locating screw. Replace the long cocking link and then the barrel/breech/shim set up and replace the barrel pivot screw and lock screw. Line up cocking links and replace its pin. (mine was slightly bent because some chimp had fitted a big mainspring). Slide trigger into housing and push down long leg of spring (see pt1) so the trigger can slide into place and then refit its pivot pin. Slide sear into place with the hooks over its pin and then refit its spring. On mine this was a bit tricky and took a couple of small screw drivers although I think some models had a screw you could unwind to get the spring in and then retighten. Drop action into grips and refit the screws at front and rear of trigger guard and refit sights.
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    Slavia zvp pistol strip (pt 1)

    This is a well built budget break barrel pistol. I think the Chinese thing is a copy of it. Undo the screws on either side of the frame, the one on the trigger guard and use a forked driver or similar to undo the one on the underside of the grip and remove from the frame. Watch out for the coil trigger spring that should remain behind in the frame. Undo the small locating screw that is on the underside of the end cap. I would now remove the 3 trigger pins. The front one holds the trigger guard, the middle one the trigger and the rear, the sear. There is no trigger spring other than the coil one already mentioned in the frame. Remove the guard,trigger and sear. Undo the barrel pivot lock screw and then the barrel pivot screw. You should now be able to lift the cocking arm out of its slot and remove the barrel. If you want to grease up the plunger, there is a pin through the breech block holding that and the spring in. Do it now and replace. Unscrew the little lock screw on the cylinder end cap and then remove the cap, guide,mainspring and piston should come out. The piston washer is leather and held by a screw. Mine was in good condition so I did not remove it. Clean and lube up the bits and go to part 2.
    Last edited by ggggr; 05-04-2016 at 05:18 PM.
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  8. #98
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    Slavia zvp pistol strip (pt2)

    Replace piston, mainspring and guide and compress the spring to screw endcap on. Make sure the screw hole is at the bottom as the little screw locates in a slot on the underside of the cylinder. Replace barrel and cocking arm (make sure arm is located) and refit the barrel pivot screw and lock screw. Replace sear from the rear and refit it,s pin, then the trigger and finally the trigger guard screw. Locate the action in the frame, again watching out for the coil trigger spring. Refit the two side screws and then the bottom screw and finally the one that fixes the trigger guard to the frame.
    I found this a nice pistol, better than the chinese copy and better than the Tex 86. It does not have an adjustable trigger,safety or anti bear trap but the trigger is better than the Tex. It is an accurate pistol. say it was as accurate as a Webley pistol but aided by a longer sightline. The rearsight is a spring steel one in a dovetail and the elevation wheel was small and stiff. I think this is a good fun pistol if you are into collectables for plinking. I would spend money on one of these rather than a Chinese one.
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    Crosman 140 pump-up

    CROSMAN 140

    A fair – good example of this pump-up rifle in .22 but it would not pump-up. This model is an early one with a simple ‘turn and pull back’ rotating breech sleeve as on the 1377 pistol
    An exploded diagram is available from the Crosman site.

    Strip:
    Remove safety catch by turning it to the neutral position (just over half way) and push out. The safety catch plunger pops into the vacant hole but will not fall out.
    Undo stock bolt on underside of stock and remove action from stock. Do not lose the washer for the stock bolt.
    Remove the breech cover by removing the small bolt and sliding the breech cover off the barrel.
    Look into the breech and note a screw bolt that secures the barrel to the cylinder. It can be a little awkward to undo this without removing the barrel end plug and loading probe but it can be done. I found it easiest to first release the barrel end bolt as: Undo and remove the bolt at the rearmost end of the barrel. Take care to support the barrel. Now push back the loading probe as far as it will go and use a small screwdriver to undo the screw visible inside the breech. It will not come all the way out because of the loading probe but it will undo enough to release the barrel. Simply pull barrel backwards to free from the muzzle support. When you remove the barrel, do not lose the transfer port seal that connects the cylinder to the barrel: a small ‘top hat and seal’. Put it somewhere safe.
    If you need to remove the bolt/probe to fit a new O ring you must now remove a plastic insert that the barrel securing bolt passed through. To do this, I found it easiest to replace the bolt through the insert (from the top) then use a drift to gently tap the bolt up and away, taking the insert with it. The barrel end cap then comes free and the bolt can be slid out.
    Remove the roll pin that secures the barrel / cylinder end cap at the muzzle. Remove end cap and pull the pump assembly free together with the pump handle. Take care not to lose the steel pin that connects the pump handle to the pump as it is quite loose.
    You are now left with the main cylinder assembly containing the valve work complete with trigger assembly
    Remove trigger assembly by removing the two screw bolts. Nothing will ‘ping’ away as the trigger is a self contained unit.
    Using a suitable drift, tap out the pin at the breech end of the cylinder (the trigger assembly fitted over it), noting that the bottom end that the trigger fitted over is serrated. Tap it out from the top.
    The hammer assembly can now be removed... in order, end plug, spring, spacer and a pin hammer through a sleeve. Note the spacer has a tapered end that faces the end plug.
    The main valve assembly is held by the long bolt that secured the stock. There are no flats on this to help removal but it unscrews. I clamped it in a rubber faced vice and turned the cylinder to do this.
    You can now push the valve assembly out of the cylinder, towards the muzzle. The main valve body comes out first followed by the blow-off exhaust valve assembly.
    The main valve seals to the cylinder by an O ring. Replace if necessary. Ours was flat and hard so was replaced. The main valve is actually two halves: unscrew the parts. They seal by another O ring that is compressed between them. Replace if needed. Inside is the main valve spring and the valve head. I did not need to replace the valve head. Reassemble.
    Turn now to the blow-off valve; brass about 1cm long that fits inside a metal sleeve. There is another O ring on this valve; replace if necessary. Now look inside this blow-off valve and note that there is an internal O ring (or quad seal) that seals the probe on the main valve assembly that slides within the blow-off valve. It is a bit fiddly to replace it but it may be necessary.
    Once this is done that’s it ... all done and ready to rebuild.

    Rebuild:
    Assembly valve unit and slide into cylinder: steel sleeve with blow-off valve towards breech. Push into place; it cannot go too far. Make sure the transfer port to the blow off valve sleeve is uppermost.
    Replace the stock securing bolt. It holds the main valve in place.
    Replace the hammer assembly and tap the serrated pin into position.
    Replace pump and pump handle assembly and the end cap.
    Replace the transfer port seal and place barrel in position. Tighten barrel screw inside the breech. If you removed the bolt assembly, replace it now. Replace barrel securing bolt at the end of the action. Replace sliding breech cover onto bolt.
    Replace trigger assembly.
    Replace action in stock and replace safety catch.

    Job done.
    Cheers, Phil

  10. #100
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    LIMIT GAT type piston

    LIMIT GAT TYPE PISTOL

    The pistol stripped is marked ‘LIMIT’ and ‘Made in England’ on top of the chamber. The guide may well apply to other Gat types but I cannot guarantee this.
    According to Hiller the LIMIT is identical to the Diana 2 pistol, but the latter has the name Diana and the Huntress symbol on the chamber.
    The pistol here was very low on power so clearly needed some attention.

    Strip:
    You do not need to remove the pistol stock to access the power plant. I found it easiest to clamp a piece of dowel vertically in the jaws on a vice and simply slot the uncocked pistol over the dowel, muzzle up. Obviously, remove the loading prod first (a new seal for the probe can be made from a thin leather disc or an O ring).

    Holding the push-in shroud, undo the knurled nut at the end of the barrel. This holds the spring tension so expect it to give suddenly.
    Remove the push-in shroud and spring. Remove pistol from the dowel.
    Pull the trigger and push the barrel assembly out of the back of the pistol. Note the piston washer on the rear end. If you need to replace this washer proceed as follows: the end knob that the probe screws into will unscrew from the barrel to allow access to the piston sealing washer. Mine was quite firm so I held the barrel carefully in a padded vice and turned the knob with a rubber glove. With the knob free from the barrel the piston washer lifts off. Mine had disintegrated so I made a new one from leather. It is a simple disc shape. Aim for a good fit but not too tight.
    Look into the pistol barrel housing and retrieve a metal washer and round leather sealing washer that the barrel passed through. The spring seats against the washer and the leather sealing washer seals around the barrel to prevent air leaks when the trigger is pulled and the shroud and barrel rush forward.
    I made a new seal from leather ... take care it is not too tight a fit around the barrel or it will slow the action down.
    Fixed inside the action at about the half way point is another assembly through which the barrel passes and upon which the spring sits. Mine appeared to have a seal there but I did not remove it as it seemed to give some grip to the barrel.
    Trigger assembly: Mine was OK but if you need to strip it proceed as follows: Remove the screw that holds the trigger guard and unhook the front of the guard from the action. Push out the two pins that hold the grip and remove the action. With a small punch simply push out the small pin that holds the trigger in place. Then push out the pin that holds the sear ... take care not to lose the small sear spring that fits between the sear and the pistol body.

    Rebuild:
    If you stripped the trigger, rebuild it first and fit the body into the grip. Place the sear into the body and carefully locate the sear spring in the small hole on top of the sear and slide the spring under the body tube. Now fit the sear pin; this will hold the sear and spring in place.
    Fit the trigger, making sure that when you pull the trigger the sear moves so that it will free the barrel assembly. Replace action in grip and replace the two pins.
    Replace the barrel assembly complete with piston washer; pull trigger to allow barrel assembly to pass over the trigger.
    Add the barrel sealing washer over the barrel followed by the metal washer.
    Replace pistol on the dowel.
    Add the spring and pop-in barrel shroud. Pull down on the shroud to compress the spring a little and allow the end of the barrel to come through the shroud. Fit the knurled nut and tighten
    During all of this, add suitable lubrication to the sealing washers. I used SM50 but I suspect that a good oil would do as there is no risk of dieseling.

    Push barrel in to cock the pistol, add pellet, secure with loading probe and fire (safely of course).

    Cheers, Phil

  11. #101
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    ASI Magnum strip (pt 1)

    A very nice chap off here sent me one of these to play with. I did not try it before the strip and the action was already out of stock but here goes. Undo the 2 front stock screws on the underside of the fore end and the two screws on the trigger guard. To remove the trigger guard you have to pull the safety lever on the trigger unit down and wangle the guard off. Take the action out of the stock and watch out for the piece of tube that sits in the stock near the stock bolt. replace it now so you wont forget it. Undo the barrel pivot bolt and lift out the barrel and breech block, complete with the cocking arm which is rivetted. Watch out for the 2 plastic shims. If you want to remove the plunger and its spring, you will need to drift out the sleeve that the barrel pivot goes through and the shims go on. clean, grease and replace this now. There are two pins at the rear of the cylinder that hold the trigger unit and end cap. Drift these out and remove cap and trigger unit. The next step is VERY IMPORTANT-----There is a scope arrester on the scope rails---you need to undo this screw before you attempt to strip the gun further. Once you have done this, get your bit of tube etc to push against the guide/block that the stock lug screw goes into. When you are pushing against this block, use a spanner to undo the lug and when it is undone, release the pressure on the block and the block/guide,mainspring and piston can be withdrawn. Go to part 2
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  12. #102
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    ASI Magnum strip (pt2)

    I did not remove the piston seal (parachute seal) but it looks like you would have to put the piston rod in some soft jaws of a vice and undo the screw holding the seal on with a large screwdriver. Clean everything up and put it back together. Put piston and mainspring in the cylinder and then the guide and its block (on this one the guide came out of the block but maybe some are in one piece?). Push down on the guide and then locate and screw in the stock screw lug. Refit the arrester and screw on the scope rails. Locate trigger unit and end cap and refit the two pins. Slide breech block/barrel and shims into the jaws and locate the cocking arm at the same time. Replace barrel pivot bolt. Drop action into stock and pull safety arm down and wangle the trigger guard into place and replace the screw. Replace the two front stock screws.
    I dont really like gamo,s as I find then pretty souless AND some of the bolts,screws and pins can be really tight. This came with a spring that seemed too small in diameter for the size of the piston so I fitted a larger diameter one of a similar length. As the sights were missing I tried an ASI 4 x 20 with a single post. After 6 or 7 shots that dieseled , the gun settled in and seemed pretty good for plinking. I reckon a better scope would help (even an smk 4 x 20) but this was a period piece. Not my cup of tea but ok for nostalgia for someone. Trigger unit looks like it would be easy enough to strip but I have not checked whether you can get hold of the parts.
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    Crosman T4 CO2 pistol Part 1

    CROSMAN T4 CO2 pistol
    Here is the strip procedure for our Crosman T4 CO2 pistol. If you doubt your ability or perseverance to do the strip and then the rebuild (part 2) do not attempt it. It is not easy. But it can be done.

    Note: This is not a difficult pistol to strip but the rebuild is not easy due to having to locate various components and keep them located while the top slide is pushed into engagement on the lower frame. Some special tools are also needed: if you intend to service the CO2 capsule inlet you will need a broad blade (approx ˝”) to unscrew the inlet retaining nut. If you need to service the valve mechanism you will need a pair of circlip pliers with fine ends to remove an internal circlip. The rest of the pistol strips quite easily with a few standard tools.
    It helps to download the exploded diagram of the pistol from the Crosman web site. Numbers presented in this guide refer to component numbers on that diagram.
    Once the frame has been separated into main body and action, the rest of the pistol is built on modules.
    Our pistol, bought at auction, was terrible. To start with the CO2 escaped when we loaded a capsule. I corrected this by adding some Pellgun oil to the seal. It would then not eject a pellet out of the magazine but just went a wimpish ‘phut’. It took a few strips to narrow down the reason ... basically it was either no gas getting into the valve or non getting out. I eliminated the first, which left the latter. It turned out to be the safety link, part 33 that had been fitted incorrectly ... see rebuild.

    Strip: Remove the CO2 capsule carrier. Looking at the pistol, note 3 pins through the action. 2 pins through the hand grip (15 + 15) and a slightly thinner pin (18) forward of the trigger guard. There is no need to remove pin 18. Removal of the rear pin 15 allows the grip (14) and piercing lever mechanism to be removed. If you intend to get at the trigger unit and valve system, remove the pin (15) near trigger guard.
    There is no need to remove the rear sight.
    The top slide is sprung onto the main body and is held by shallow ridges on the slide. There is one ridge each side on the trigger block and a further one each side just forward of the trigger guard as part of the main body. You need to spring the sides of the slide from these ridges. I used a broad blade screwdriver to do this but take care that you do not damage the sides of the slide or the main body. When you have one side free, spring the other side free but keep the slide and main body held together. There are no small components to ping away but be prepared for the next step which is actual separation of the slide from the body.
    With the trigger block exposed, hold it in position while you lift the slide and move it forward towards the muzzle. Try to keep the shroud assembly (part 2 which contains the barrel and indexing system) inside the slide at this point. As you lift this off the main body you will release a spring that fits over the guide rod beneath the barrel from its location in the main body. It will not fly away and should simply come away sitting on the rod.
    If you manage to leave part 2 inside the action but release it from the slide, do not worry, but in doing so you will release part 4, the shroud release spring on the barrel from its housing and will need to reposition it during the rebuild.
    You may now have the top slide plus shroud assembly and the main body with the trigger block assembly inside.
    List the trigger assembly away, noting that the shroud release lever ((21) comes with it. This may just fall off its locating peg but do not worry.

    Servicing the valve: Look at the trigger housing (11) and note a screw (10) holding the lh plate to the rh plate. Remove this screw and gently lift the lh plate away. It helps to keep a finger on the trigger to keep the trigger against the rh plate while you do this. With the lh plate removed you can see all the components ... trigger (35), trigger spring (34), hammer with spring (32), the valve assembly (30) and a component called the safety link (33) which is a piece of bent rod approx 2mm diameter that locates through holes attached to a bar on the trigger and sits between the valve pin and the hammer.
    The valve unit body just lifts away from its location on the rh plate. To access the capsule seal, undo the nut using the broad blade and remove, in order, the seal (30B), the piercing pin (30C) and the filter/screen (30D). Note that if all you need to do is replace any of these components, this can be done without the full pistol strip as they are accessible through the pistol grip once the capsule carrier is removed (rear pin 15).
    To access the exhaust valve, remove the circlip (30J) and let the valve seal and valve stem come away. Releasing the circlip allows these parts to come out under slight spring pressure. Remove spring, a steel washer and a seal (30F). An O ring (30K) will most likely stay inside the valve body. Replace parts as necessary.
    At the front of the valve body is the part that transfers gas to the pellet ... a black push on cap with a sprung transfer port. If needed, the cap just pulls off to release a small spring and the transfer port tube.

    This is really as far as you need to go with a normal service strip. Other components, shroud assembly and CO2 capsule carrier can be stripped if needed but I had no need to do this.

    Rebuild follows
    Cheers, Phil

  14. #104
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    Crosman T4 CO2 pistol rebuild

    Part 2: Now the fun starts.
    The rebuild:
    Valve assembly: Clean the valve body and replace components in order, making sure the seals etc lie flat and locate properly. To refit the circlip, assemble the circlip on the circlip pliers and compress it; holding the clip in the pliers push down on part 30I (check this is going to seal against the O ring, it goes with the wide seal side, narrow brass side, into the valve) to compress the spring and release the circlip when it is in position. Check it has located in the groove.
    If you removed it, replace the black cap, transfer port and spring. Note the cap has 2 small lugs that need to be in the correct position on the lower side of the valve body in order to locate in the trigger housing. Refit the capsule components and tighten the locking nut.
    Check the trigger safety link part 33: This is a bent rod in a sort of horseshoe shape with one arm longer than the other. One arm locates through holes in the flat bar that connects the trigger to the hammer. When the trigger is pulled, this rod moves up to cover the firing pin of the valve. The hammer then strikes the rod which pushes the valve pin in to release gas via the transfer port. Our rod was fitted with the longer arm located through the trigger bar holes, indeed the exploded diagram seems to show it this way. When I failed to get our pistol to fire after checking everything else, I reversed the position of this rod, placing the short arm through the holes in the trigger bar. The result was remarkable ... instant power. I wonder if the pistol had been assembled incorrectly from new.
    When happy that all is well with the valve and safety link, make sure the trigger spring is located in its recess and replace the lh plate. You can now check trigger action. It should be smooth and if you look inside the hammer as you pull the trigger you should see the safety link rise to be struck by the hammer.

    The time has now come to rebuild the pistol into the main body.

    Trigger housing and shroud release catch: Take the trigger housing and place the shroud release lever on its locating peg on the lh side, the long arm to the left. Now look inside the main body and note that when you push down on the components at the muzzle end, they move up and down under spring pressure. Note there is a small lever on the rh side of these bits that comes up as the lh side bits go down. When reassembling the trigger block into the main body, you need to locate the shroud release arm under this small lever such that when the shroud release ‘thumb release’ is pushed down, the small lever moves up, pushing the shroud release mechanism down ... this releases the shroud and it springs forward under the action of the spring(s) over the barrel and guide rod. This can easily be checked when you think you have the trigger block in place .. just push the release lever down and see if the release mechanism moves down. While doing all of this, note that at the forward end of the centre of the trigger housing (just below the black cap) there is a groove (approx 1.5mm wide) facing inwards on each side. The shroud assembly will locate into this groove soon.... With the trigger housing assembled into the main body and the shroud release catch working, turn your attention to the slide and shroud assembly.

    Shroud assembly: If the shroud assembly came free from the slide, you need to refit it. The barrel goes through the top hole and a guide rod goes through the lower hole. The barrel has a spring and retaining C clip. The spring needs to fit into a recess in the slide with the C clip next to a ‘guide plate’ in the inside of the slide such that the spring is pushing the barrel into the shroud. At the same time, the spring on the locating rod needs to be in place over the rod. It will be located properly later ... While this is going on, the barrel and locating rod both need to go through their respective holes in the end of the slide.
    I found the critical part was getting the barrel spring and circlip to locate properly. I solved it by: With the barrel/shroud off the slide, slide the barrel spring over the barrel and add the C clip (if you have not removed the C clip, it will be in this state). Now take about 15cm of thin garden wire ... mine was green covered and maybe less than 1mm total diameter. Thread one end through the barrel spring. Compress the spring completely and use the wire to hold the spring compressed. Now, with the other spring over the guide rod, pass the barrel and the locating rod through the holes in the slide, making sure the C clip is on the inside of the locating plate in the slide housing with the end of the spring away from the C clip against the shroud body ( such that when you release the spring it will push the shroud back away from the muzzle). Remove the thin wire. You should now have a slide with the shroud assembly attached by the barrel spring and with a locating/guide rod with a spring spinning freely on it.
    Look at the shroud assembly and note a guide bar on the lh side at about guide rod height. It is about12mm long. On the rh side is a much smaller guide, about 3mm long. These will locate in the grooves in the trigger housing.
    During the many strips I did on my pistol I managed to damage the small guide (soft plastic!) but replaced it with a small steel peg (actually part of a steel rod from a needle roller bearing) superglued into the shroud assembly.

    Now for some fun: you now need to mate the shroud assembly / slide unit into the main frame while: 1. Keeping the shroud release lever operational 2. Locating the guides on the shroud assembly into the grooves on the trigger housing and 3. (most difficult) locating the spring on the guide rod into its correct position in the main frame as the slide and main frame come together. This is how I (eventually) did it. There may be other ways but this worked for me even though it took many attempts to get it right:
    Hold the main frame in left hand with trigger housing upwards. Hold it so that the trigger housing is slightly angled up at the rh end; it will not move much anyway but all movement helps. Keep the lh end in the mainframe or the shroud release lever can become detached.
    Offer up the slide assembly. You need to keep this almost parallel to the main body and in the correct position such that the guides on the sides will slip into the grooves on the trigger housing. At the same time, the lh end of the spring on the guide rod needs to be caught against the rh face of the plastic plate that sits a couple of cm away from the rh end of the main frame. As you push the slide and shroud to the left, this spring compresses. If you get this wrong and the spring is not compressed against the plate in the body (by the plate being positioned somewhere along the spring) then the shroud release will not work. As you succeed in locating the spring and the guides / grooves, the slide will begin to engage again onto first the trigger housing and then the body at the muzzle end. The parts should snap together.
    Check the action: Does the slide release and shroud work? Does the safety work? If not, then you must remove the slide / shroud assembly again and start again.

    If all is well, replace the lh pin 15, replace the CO2 lever unit with the rh pin 15 and check pistol function.

    If it all works, congratulate yourself on a job well done. While correcting our pistol I must have removed the top slide about 8 times while trying various methods to get it all back together. The method described here worked, many others, including assembling the trigger housing and shroud into the slide first (quite easy to do) failed because I could not then locate the shroud release lever into its correct position while fitting the slide unit back into the main body. Maybe perseverance would have seen me find a way.

    Cheers, Phil

  15. #105
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    Red face Panther? RO72 strip (pt1)

    Here we have the RO72. Undo the screw on the foresight and the two on the rearsight (you will have to remove elevation wheel to get at the rear one and dont lose the little post it pushes against) and remove sights and put somewhere safe. To remove the grips there are two screws on either side parallel to the cylinder and a larger and smaller one in the pistol grips (one locates in the other).Lift the action out and remove the endcap. You can remove the cocking arm pivot pins at either end of the cocking arm and remove the cocking arm.( the 2nd pin goes through a slot in the trigger housing and connects to a slider which has a ball bearing on it).Undo the nut on the RHS of the breech jaws with a forked screwdriver or similar and undo the barrel pivot and remove. If you want to change the breech seal do it now. If you want to grease the barrel plunger and spring, you will have to remove the small pin in the block that holds them. I would do it now and replace in the block. There are 2 pins near the middle of the trigger housing----if you knock these out you can remove the trigger. Slide out the cocking slider.The remaining pin at the rear of the housing holds the sear. Watch out for the hairpin spring that goes on the sear and locates on the out side of the housing, when you remove the sear. Go to pt2
    Last edited by ggggr; 19-10-2010 at 04:11 PM. Reason: error
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