Thanks very much -- interesting.
Thanks very much -- interesting.
B.A.S.C | HW100Tuning KT250bar+reg+tune .177+4-16x50 | HW95.177 +4-16x44 + Paul Short Stage 4 & Trigger Tune | TX200HC.22 + 4-16x44 | HW97KT.22 + 4-16x44 + Paul Short Stage 4 & Trigger Tune
Ill have a hunt around tonight , If I can find my own one you can have it , if you want mate .
Hth atvb fellas .
The little pencils that you pick up at IKEA work very well too
(the missus goes there.........not me )
Cheers, Mark
Proud to be a member of; MVAC and Countryside Alliance
"...... I'm good with the science, but rubbish with the gun "
Just to see what all the fuss is about, I knocked one up out of Delrin this afternoon.
Pic1 Pic2 Pic3 Pic4
Whether it makes a difference I have yet to find out
But you can feel the pellet going into the rifling as you push the breech home. On the Steyr, there is only about 35mm gap when the breech is open, so it is easier to push the probe gently with the breech, unless you have tiny little fingers.
I always thought these tools were for improving the seal and shape of the pellet skirt and ensuring consistent depth of seating in spring guns. Therefore matchsticks, cotton buds or their use with PCP's is pretty much a waste of time IMO.
Ooh cheeky!
Actually got it out at the club today... the pellet probe, what did you think?
And guess what, with the Steyr groups at 45 yards were exactly the same as without probing, except a couple of mm lower due to the slightly lower velocity (about 15fps). So good try but no cigar.
I will try the same procedure in the 80 next time I get a chance to see if it helps with a .22 springer but TBH it was grouping brilliantly at 45 today too
Having just found a tin of awful JSB Exacts (.177) with damaged skirts, I have spent a little while 'mending' the skirts to give plinking pellets. My mender was a simple round head plastic map pin stuck in the end of a bit of wood. Worked fine.
Incidentally I use the same map pins, but stuck in the end of a bit of dowel to seat pellets into the magazines for CO2 pistols. You need to arrange the pins in the correct spacing... 8 for the Walther clones, 10 for the S&W. Works perfectly.
Cheers, Phil
Some great ideas here -- we are a nation of inventors!
B.A.S.C | HW100Tuning KT250bar+reg+tune .177+4-16x50 | HW95.177 +4-16x44 + Paul Short Stage 4 & Trigger Tune | TX200HC.22 + 4-16x44 | HW97KT.22 + 4-16x44 + Paul Short Stage 4 & Trigger Tune
Remember, if you're thinking about making a pellet seater, it has to be made of something softer than the barrel material, that's why plastic or brass ones are best. While sticking a ball bearing onto the end of a rod of some sort might seem like a good way to get a spherical end on the tool, ball bearings are extremely hard, and while it might not scratch the breech, it could cause wear. Also, will the metal rod behind it contact the breech at all? Again, you have the possibility of wearing the barrel or even scratching it which could affect accuracy.
Since I shoot a lot of different pistols and rifles with various breech designs, I like my adjustable brass seater. Just the other night I was shooting a Hy-Score pistol, found that the brand of pellets I was using were a little oversized, just enough to stop them dropping fully into the barrel. The breech on the Hy-Score is down a recess that you drop the pellet into, so out came the adjustable pellet seater again, I wound the nuts along the thread a bit to extend it, it seated the pellets perfectly and allowed the breech to close without clipping the pellet skirt at all.
Seriously, the adjustable brass bolt pellet seater is the only one you will ever need. It won't wear away rapidly or shed bits of itself in the breech like a wooden pencil or a bit of plastic, as it's adjustable you can use it with a wide variety of airguns and experiment with seating to different depths, there really is no point using anything else.
If you like a round-ended pellet seater for some if your guns, you can easily file or cut the head of the bolt into a hemisphere like I did, which makes it even more versatile.