Airsporter Strip Help Please

[windmill]

Hi All, am currently attempting to replace seals and generally degunk & polish a GL prefix airsporter. How do I tell if it is a mk5 or 6? Seems a simple strip and no problem until I tried to unscrew the trigger block. It's solid! I'm loathe to exert too much force and to be honest can see no way of locking the tube assembly whilst exerting force on the block to unscrew. Can anyone give me any advice on this please? Is it a common problem? I don't think this has been touched from new given what I know of it's history but isn't corroded in any way so I guess it's just very tight, unless I'm missing something. Many Thanks, David.

[I. J.]

If you post the serial number prefix on here one of the many anoraks () will be able to give to a model number.

As for the end block. Its just a question of sheer force and ignorance - thats were I come in. Place the cylinder in a WELL PADDED VICE or similar and shock the end block undone. (Tell it the price of pellets! ). A suitable sized bolt through the cocking lever pivot hole is something to hit. Its a normal r/h thread. Caution: The main spring may be under some pre load.

Good luck.

ATB
Ian

[windmill]

Thanks, not too happy doing any more of that in an alloy rear block - doesn't look particularly strong in that area so will take it to local and let him break it I think. I've already had a bar in there and tried to scare it with a large hammer whilst bracing the tube but nothing, heat and soaking it spring to mind but blueing is particularly good so don't want to do it any harm. It is currently running about 9.5 so may leave it, don't know what to expect? other than a friends early one seems to have the edge power wise. Serial is GL18515 and I think may have a left handed stock?

[I. J.]

Serial is GL18515 and I think may have a left handed stock?

'GL' = Airsporter Mk VI .22 1979-83. I told you an anorak would be along.

Left hand stock ?

ATB
Ian

[windmill]

Many Thanks Ian, sounds about right from what I was told of it's history. Cheers, David.

[Airsporter1st]

As Ian says - you need to shock it loose rather than apply sustained force.

If you hold the cylinder with leather gloves you can get a good grip of it whilst someone else hits the trigger block sharply (in the right direction of course) with a wooden or plastic mallet. (And try to avoid saying "when I nod my head you hit it")

Once it starts undoing, rest the muzzle end on a suitable pad on the floor and apply downwards force on the back of the block as you unscrew it (turning the cylinder and holding the block is easiest. This is the best way to replace it as well.

[ggggr]

Ive had problems with these as well. I did a mk 1 version that was hand tight (GREAT! I only checked it but carried on with the strip) but the mk2,5 and 6 Ive done have all been sods. I ended up putting the trigger block in the vice and used a VERY BIG adjustable spanner on the flat bit of the breech (obviously with tap removed) and just kept a bit of pressure on. I think someone on here suggested putting the thing in a freezer because the alloy will contract more than the steel. If you put the cylinder in a padded vice, it will be as well to get someone to hold things steady if you try to jar the trigger block with a mallet and bar.

[Airsporter1st]

Ive had problems with these as well. I did a mk 1 version that was hand tight (GREAT! I only checked it but carried on with the strip) but the mk2,5 and 6 Ive done have all been sods. I ended up putting the trigger block in the vice and used a VERY BIG adjustable spanner on the flat bit of the breech (obviously with tap removed) and just kept a bit of pressure on. I think someone on here suggested putting the thing in a freezer because the alloy will contract more than the steel. If you put the cylinder in a padded vice, it will be as well to get someone to hold things steady if you try to jar the trigger block with a mallet and bar.

I think you'll find that all models have a steel threaded portion attached to the trigger block so the diifferential expansion dodge won't work.

[windmill]

Many Thanks for all the advice, I'll give it another 'bash' tomorrow. Cheers, David.

[coburn]

I had a similar problem with mine, however I found it easier to clamp the trigger block in the vice and remove the tap and use a close fitting bar thru the hole to unscrew the action from the trigger block.

[Airsporter1st]

I had a similar problem with mine, however I found it easier to clamp the trigger block in the vice and remove the tap and use a close fitting bar thru the hole to unscrew the action from the trigger block.

The only risk with this is that you damage the critical area where the loading tap sits and the net result of your efforts is a reduction in power due to leakage past the tap.

[windmill]

Thanks to you both, tried shocking again but was getting seriously worried re the force applied to the thin area next to the hole on the trigger block. Then went for the loading tap option but wrapped bar in thin brass sheet before applying force....it worked but had to use more pressure than I liked. Hopefully the brass cushioned the port from damage, seems ok anyway. Cause was rust in the threads although it wasn't visible from the outside and no corrosion/rust anywhere else. Yes, both threaded parts are steel hence the problem. Anyway Thanks again, new seal, buffer & spring and it will be as good as new. Cheers, David.