Nikko Scope - Problem or Not?

[wonky donky]

If you knowledgeable folks would help I would be most grateful.

I have a Nikko 10-50x60 Diamond, I've had it for a couple of years now but only just this week decided to use it.

When I zoom between 10 mag. & 50 mag. the image moves very slightly!

I have been setting the parallax at 50 mag, then I zoom out.

I would never have noticed this deviation if the rifle had not been in a test rig at the time as I'm only talking very small amount here.

I have tried to photograph the image so you can hopefully see what I'm talking about? the image's not brilliant but the best I can do under the prevailing conditions at the time.

The black dot is 2.5mm & about 9/10mtrs away. The left image is 50mag & 10 mag on the right.

Do I return the scope for repair or am I being over critical?




Thanks, Dave

[ronan]

think optical perfecton is not posable/ would think eney thing that has to move within given parimiters will give shift. ie moving magnificaton paralex ajustment eye bell movment may be totaly talking rubbish hear but two meney variables must move change things i think

[pennineway.fswo]

Hi David
I first noticed this problem on a 3-9 x 40 Tasco scope many years ago
It was not a cheap scope but at 30 yards the POA moved by about 25mm when going from 9x down to 3x (so i always left it at 6mag).

So it is a check that I carry out on any scope that i buy that has a zoom and which I am using for target shooting.

Many of the cheaper scopes that I have checked over the years have shown this problem to some degree (some showing huge errors) but I have a few mid priced scopes such as the older Nikko Stirling Target Masters, the smaller brother of your Nikko ie. the Nikko Stirling Diamond 6-24 x 42mm and also an old but very reliable Tasco TR 6-24 x 40 and these seem to be free from this problem. I usually check them using a Workmate and look for the zero shift as I turn the zoom ring



The shift on yours looks like about 1mm at 10 metres so if you are using it for short range target work such as 20 yd.LSR then it should not pose much of a problem
However if you shoot in FT competitions then the error could be up to 5mm at 50 metres depending on what magnification was used to zero the rifle/scope set up, and so this represents shooting with a handicap

I suspect many FT shooters may be using scopes with this problem to some degree but the zero shift is small and so has not shown up as a problem.Or they may shoot at a fixed mag. For fixed mag. HFT it is not a problem

I would contact the supplier and /or manufacturer and ask for their opinion as your scope is a top of the range Nikko
ATB
John

[mintyrn10]

if you want it repairing or may be exchange if they see fit ,, send to highlandoutdoors but you must have your proof of purchace

[daveclark]

If they do swap it, you will have to pay 150 pound on top, but they send you a nice new version, after all they are more expensive than the old one, and i dont think you need proof of purchase, it's the scope that is garanteed.

dave

[Pod]

It could just be that the scope is not optically zeroed. On such a high mag scope this could be critical. Try centreing the reticle and see if it still does it. If it doesn't then zero it in using adjustable mounts and it'll be sorted.

[mintyrn10]

If they do swap it, you will have to pay 150 pound on top, but they send you a nice new version, after all they are more expensive than the old one, and i dont think you need proof of purchase, it's the scope that is garanteed.

dave

hi dave ,just had my nikko exchanged , it was only 9 months old
the side wheel got really stiff they said there was a problem with it and would only send a new one if original proof of purchace provided they said to many people sending in second hand scopes and trying to get new back any ways see you at codnor

[JerryD]

I have seen similar on mine (one of the first ones) when it hits the endstops of the zoom - presumably, there is a very small misalignment when it comes up against the stop.

I deal with it by taking it up to the zoom stop then backing it off, either from 10x or 50x. It then seems to zoom accurately between the two extremes with no movement or deviation. As long as I'm not on right on endstops everything seems to be on target (or was - I've just changed to an Elite 6500).

Try aligning and focussing at around 40x, then watch the x-hairs as you zoom up to the 50x endstop. If nothing moves until it hits the stop, then it's a similar issue which can be managed. If not, it's another problem and may need a fix.


ATB Jerry