How do I remove a BSA prewar airchamber?

[Oldandshaky]

I have my Light Pattern stripped down and I was wondering if its possible to remove the airchamber from the loading tap barrel assembly?

I presume it must be screwed in but its so well finished that I can't see the join, it would make the job of cleaning and polishing much easier if I could get it off but is it possible without causing damage ?

Thanks for looking...Dave...

[Binners]

Edbear is yer man !

He can practically strip, melt and remold these oldies.

[edbear2]

Hi mate........They are screw cut internally both ends with an identical threadform.....the cylinder (at the front end) will be a much better fit due to not being disassembled over the years, and is held in place by a low melting point tin solder...much like webley mk 3 foresights........Hold the barrel forging (minus tap assy!) by the underlever pivot block in a good vice, with jaw protectors (lead/wood/aluminium)......and use a strap wrench (oil filter tool) or a grippy pair of gloves to grasp the cylinder......You want to heat only enough to break the seal......Apply heat to the cylinder at the front (first 1 inch) evenly with a propane torch, whilst keeping turning pressure (normal undoing ie. anti clockwise as looking from the rear of gun).....on the cylinder....look closely at the joint for evidence of solder globules exiting ....this will tell you its about to give......keep the heat on until the cylinder is clear, or the solder will freeze again........You now have access to the transfer port to smooth it out if damaged as they often are, plus the cylinder can easily be polished/honed internally........to re-assemble......if possible bead blast remnants of solder from threads, 0r use a little heat and a fine wire brush carefully......and use locktite 270 or equivalent on threads to re-assemble......the cylinder should be in the correct position +/- 5 degrees when seated, but may need aligning......Scribe a tiny witness mark across both surfaces before if you are worried about this.......

The reason I know all this is that I made a gun to suit the missus (she is 4' 11") from a damaged imp mod D.....so I reduced the chamber length to keep the gun in proportion overall, as well as the barrel and cocking arm........It's ended up with a cylinder about 1/4" longer than your L model,(so shoots at over 600 fps) but overall its shorter and fits her........the things you do for women eh???

One I did earlier

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7616789686347/

What you may find;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7616480284317/

[Oldandshaky]

Thanks for clearing that up Ed, I got a loupe out and still can't see the join on the tap assembly, it is just visible underneath as a very fine hairline, these old beauties are so well made its a pleasure to look after them.

I haven't taken the cylinder off because there is no damage to the transfer port and the only rubble I found inside were some small bits of leather and a pellet skirt, everything inside looks like new once the dirty oil is cleaned off.

Thanks for your reply....Dave..